Jane Garvey's Weekly Wines Recipes

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Archive of Tasting Notes

November 3rd, 2005

November 10th, 2005

November 17th, 2005

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Sandy Springs

December 1st, 2005 Dessert Wines
	Recipes from The Wine Lover's Dessert Cookbook Lemon Cream Mousse Honey Ricotta Tart Brown Sugar Glazed Bananas
Lemon Cream Mousse This ethereal mousse is velvet on the tongue. Zingy lemon is the perfect foil to balance the richness of the egg yolks and cream. This recipe works well with either regular lemons or fragrant Meyer lemons. The latter are sweeter; if using them, reduce the sugar by 1/4 cup to compensate. Making the Match Tart lemon and rich dairy call for a wine with a little weight but also enough acid to match the fruit. A late harvest riesling with good acid and lemon undertones pairs well. It is also delicious with a beerenauslese or trockenbeerenauslese, or a Muscat de Rivesaltes. We think it's great with St. Supery Moscato (Napa Valley, California), made from muscat canelli grapes. Makes 6 servings 3/4 teaspoon unflavored gelatin 3/4 cup sugar 3/4 cup lemon juice (4 to 6 lemons) 6 large egg yolks 1 cup heavy cream Pour 1/4 cup cold water into a small, wide bowl and sprinkle the gelatin evenly over its surface. Let soften for 5 minutes. Have on hand a fine-mesh strainer set over a medium bowl. Whisk together the sugar, lemon juice, and egg yolks in the top of a nonreactive double boiler placed over, but not touching, simmering water. Whisk briskly and continuously until the mixture is thick enough that, when you lift the whisk, you see a ribbon rest on the surface before quickly dissolving back into the mixture, about 10 minutes. Strain the mixture and stir in the softened gelatin. Set the warm bowl into a larger bowl half-filled with ice and water, making sure not to let water splash into the lemon mixture. Let cool to room temperature, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, whip the cream to medium peaks. Remove the cooled lemon mixture from the bowl of ice and fold in the whipped cream. Divide the mousse among 6 stemmed glasses or dessert cups. Refrigerate until chilled and set, 1 to 2 hours. The mousse can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. To avoid condensation, wait until it is completely cold before covering with plastic film.
Crostata di Ricotta (Honey Ricotta Tart)
Tarts filled with sweetened ricotta cheese are a traditional dessert in Sicily and are also popular in Rome. We've added cornmeal to the crust and honey to the filling for crunchy contrast and earthy flavors that pair nicely with many late harvest wines. Making the Match The abundant earthy and dairy flavors in this tart call for medium-bodied wine with notes of honey and orange blossom. It pairs well with both ice wine and vin santo. Orange muscat brings out the tart's subtle orange flavor, while the delicious Chateau des Charmes Late Harvest Riesling (Niagara Peninsula) beautifully accentuates the tart's honey and citrus undertones. Makes 10 servings Pastry Crust 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature 3 tablespoons sugar 1 large egg yolk 1/4 teaspoon salt 1 cup all-purpose flour 1/3 cup fine cornmeal Ricotta Filling 15 ounces (1 3/4 cups) whole milk ricotta cheese 3 ounces (1/3 cup) cream cheese, at room temperature 1/2 cup heavy cream 1/4 cup sugar 2 large eggs 2 tablespoons honey 1 tablespoon finely grated zest (from about 1/2 orange) 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract To make the crust: Process the butter, 3 tablespoons sugar, egg yolk, and salt in a food processor, scraping down the bowl with a spatula as needed. Add the flour and cornmeal and pulse just until combined. Turn the dough out onto a floured surface and knead 2 to 3 times to bring the dough together into a ball. Press the dough into a flat disk, wrap in plastic film, and refrigerate until firm, about 30 minutes or up to 3 days. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F and position a rack near the center. Briefly knead the dough on a floured surface, then roll it into a 12-inch round, keeping the work surface, dough, and rolling pin all well floured and moving the dough frequently to prevent it from sticking. Work quickly, handling the dough as little as possible to keep it cool. Wrap the pastry loosely around the rolling pin and then unroll it over a 10-inch fluted tart pan with a removable bottom, draping the pastry over the pan to center it. Push the pastry firmly into the bottom and sides of the pan, using dough scraps to patch any tears. If you find this soft dough difficult to work with, either chill it again or press pieces of the dough into place in the pan. Roll the pin firmly over the top of the pan to trim the edge neatly. Bake the crust for 20 minutes; it will not be fully baked. Set the pan on a rack to cool. Leave the oven on. While the dough bakes, make the filling: Pulse the ricotta, cream cheese, cream, sugar, eggs, egg yolk, honey, orange zest, and vanilla in a food processor until completely smooth. Pour the filling into the partially baked crust and bake until the filling is set, with golden brown spots dotting the surface, 35 to 40 minutes. Transfer the pan to a rack to cool until it is room temperature. When it is cool, remove the sides of the pan and transfer the tart with the base to a serving platter. Cut the crostata into wedges with a sharp knife and serve at room temperature.
Brown Sugar Glazed Bananas with Roasted Peanuts and Lime
This exceedingly quick and easy recipe blends sweet, sour and salty flavors. It is a great way to use up bananas before they get too ripe. We like to make this with the small finger bananas, sometimes called niсo or baby bananas, and top them with a scoop of coconut or white chocolate ice cream. Avoid roasted peanuts that contain seasonings such as paprika or garlic salt. Making the Match Sweet wines love salt, and the bananas pair well with botrytis. Together, the elements match well with a late harvest botrytised wine with good acidity, such as a sauvignon blanc or semillon. We love this with Carmenet's honey-gold Copa de Oro late harvest semillon (Edna Valley, California). The combination of flavors also stands up well to a vin santo or tawny port, while the lime marries well with orange muscat or a late harvest white featuring citrus flavors. Makes 4 servings 4 medium bananas or 8 niсo bananas, completely yellow with just a few dark spots 1/2 cup light brown sugar, lightly packed 1/3 cup salted, dry roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped 2 teaspoons finely grated lime zest (from about 2 limes) 1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces 2 to 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice (from about 2 limes) Preheat the broiler and position an oven rack 6 to 8 inches from the broiler element. Butter a rimmed baking pan or line it with foil. Peel the bananas, cut them in half crosswise and then lengthwise to make four pieces for each banana. (If using niсo bananas, cut them in half lengthwise only.) Place the bananas cut-side up in the prepared pan. Sprinkle brown sugar, peanuts, and lime zest evenly over the bananas. Dot them with the butter pieces and drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the lime juice. Broil the bananas until the sauce is bubbling and patches of brown appear on the peanuts and bananas, 3 to 5 minutes. Sprinkle the bananas with the remaining lime juice and serve immediately on warm plates.