Jane Garvey's Weekly Wines

Holiday parties can be budget busters if you're not careful. And they can be a challenge when it comes to finding wine to go with "party food." Too often, what's on the table can represent practically every flavor known to the gods.

Sad to say, some of the fanciest houses serve some of the worst wine at holiday parties. Is everybody supposed to get so wasted they don't notice they're swilling chimney drippings? Art gallery bashes are the worst when it comes to setting forth bad wine, especially at holiday open houses. Like artists who sometimes frame their work most inappropriately, galleries will have someone cater very good food, then put out the most miserable cheap quaff they can find. And the weirder the critter emblazoned thereon, the better.

Stop! Take a step back, if you're planning one of these holiday capers, then think about the wine you're serving. Even if the feast is pot luck with everyone bringing a dish, you can still make good wine choices at under $10 a bottle. Forget the "Mastadon Merlot" wines that you can't stand for more than two sips because they're overloaded with sugar and lack any and all acidity. So step outside the box, and find special wines that respect your wallet as well as your palate. And one thing: Just because they're reasonably priced doesn't mean they don't deserve a decent glass, so get out the good stuff. You'll enjoy the wines more.

Jane Garvey

No Label

Codorníu Brut "Original" (NV)
Penedès, Spain

Score: 88 Points

Tasting Notes: Medium-bodied dry sparkling wine; medium straw. Fresh scent of citrus and apple; pear/ apple flavors, sort of like Asian pear apple, with a light ginger note. Light texture, with persistent small bead. Crisp, clean palate-refreshing finish, with a little yeastiness in the close. A whole lot of flavor for the money. Superb value. Grape types: Parellada, Macabeo (a/k/a Viura); Xarel.lo. Serve chilled, about 50 degrees, in flute-shaped glasses.

Food Pairings: Sushi and sashimi; Asian dim sum; steamed dumplings with Ponzu dipping sauce; mussels vinaigrette or chilled mussels with homemade mayonnaise and a sprinkling of minced fresh herbs; ceviche, lightly curried chicken salad; pinwheel sandwiches with salmon and cream cheese; salmon salad; smoked salmon mousse; cocktail crab cakes

Price: $8
Wholesaler: Savannah Distributing

Bodegas Valdeaguila Vi?a Salamanca Viura/Verdejo 2005

Bodegas Valdeaguila Viña Salamanca Viura/Verdejo 2005, Castilla y León, Spain

Score: 88 Points

Tasting Notes: Light-/medium-bodied dry white wine; pale greenish straw. Fresh scent of white fruits; with a slight hint of fresh herb and grapefruit. Flavor bring the grapefruit character to the foreground, then the finish picks up the slight grapefruit note and takes it to the end. Some nice chalky minerality becomes apparent as wine opens. Grape types: 50-50 Viura Verdejo Don't serve too cold, 55 degrees should do it, in tulip-shaped white wine glasses.

Food Pairings: Light appetizers: white pizza with caramelized onions; chicken croquetas; cocktail potatoes stuffed with fresh goat cheese and dill or finely minced green onion; chicken or pork satay; chicken fingers with honey mustard sauce (very good); garlic chicken wings; smoked salmon mousse; white bean dip with pita triangles; hummus; tabbouleh (a zinger!)

Price: $8
Wholesaler: Georgia Crown

Valdivieso Rosado 2005
Central Valley, Chile

Score: 90 Points

Tasting Notes: Medium-bodied dry rosй wine; medium deep reddish pink. Aromas of red fruits--especially strawberries and raspberries--introduce clean, fresh red fruit flavors. Clean, brisk, crisp, snappy finish. Clearly refreshing. Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon (85%), balance blend of Merlot, Malbec, Syrah. Stainless steel. Serve moderately chilled, about 55 degrees, in tulip-shaped white wine glasses.

Food Pairings: Chinese-style barbecued spar ribs; pork buns; fried chicken with honey mustard sauce; spicy chicken wings; ham croquetas; grilled sweetbreads; empanadas; terikayki skewers; Kobe-style beef cubes on skewers with Gorgonzola fondue (tasted at Vino Libro, a classy new wine bar); chile con queso with good Mexican chorizo; baked ham; wraps

Price: $8
Wholesaler: New World Wines

Casa Girelli "Canaletto" Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2002, Abruzzo, Italy

Score: 87 Points

Tasting Notes: Medium-bodied dry red wine; deep purple red. Delightful aromas of brown spices and dark fruits; evolving into a hint of sweet cured tobacco; flavors tilt to tart dark fruits, especially dark cherry.. Mid-palate is a little shallow, and finish a mite short, but it's nice while it's there. Soft tannins. Grape type: Montepulciano. Clean, sweet fruit makes this most worthwhile. Excellent everyday wine. Very fine value.

Food Pairings: Very food friendly: sausage and peppers; lasagna; stuffed shells with tomato sauce; pasta Bolognese; classic pizza; chili; barbecue; smoked pork loin; smoked liverwurst; pâtés and terrines; wraps; baked ham; muffalettas, fried ,barbecued or roasted chicken; eggplant Parmesan; sausage-stuffed baked mushrooms

Price: $9
Wholesaler: Georgia Crown

Cellier des Dauphins C?tes-du-Rh?ne Prestige Blanc 2003

Cellier des Dauphins Côtes-du-Rhône Prestige Blanc 2003, Côtes-du Rhône, France

Score: 87 Points

Tasting Notes: Medium-bodied dry white wine; medium gold. Aromas of apple, quince and pear, while quince emerges ahead of the pack on the palate. Well-integrated flavors, with good acidity, and a most persistent finish. Old-fashioned packaging is charming. Very fine value. Great "Wednesday Wine." Grapes: Grenache Blanc, Clairette. Serve just cool, about 60 degrees, in tulip-shaped white wine glasses.

Food Pairings: Tiny potatoes stuffed with herbed fresh cheese; salmon salad; cooked mussels served cold and topped with mayonnaise; fennel-apple salad; chicken breast tenders in creamy whole-grain mustard sauce; white pizza; grilled garlic shrimp; pasta salads with feta cheese and herbs

Price: $9
Wholesaler: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC

Bodegas Borsao Red Wine 2005
Campo de Borja, Spain

Score: 92 Points

Tasting Notes: Full-bodied dry red wine; medium deep purple red. Lively aromas of red and black fruits, with flavors that capture the same characters. Blackberry, plum, some red raspberry. Silky textured, with soft tannins. Nice balance of fruit, acidity. Long, clean, finish. Grapes: Garnacha (85%) and Tempranillo (15%). Outstanding value. Serve moderately cool, about 60 degrees, in generous tulip-shaped glasses.

Food Pairings: Smoked liverwurst, peppered liver pâté; salami and similar cured meats; baked ham; pizza with red sauce and meats; grilled sausage; barbecue; rare grilled steak; lamb steak (grilled just pink); Chinese barbecue; burgers; chili (not wicked hot); smoked pork ribs and beef brisket; meatballs in tomato sauce; meatloaf; barbecued chicken

Price: $8
Wholesaler: Prestige Wine Wholesale