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Sandy Springs

November 17th, 2005
Chilean Wines

Chile (pronounced CHEE-lay, not to be confused with the popular bean dish) is a slim, long nation that rides the Andean Cordillera along the west coast of South America.

Chileans are a diverse people, with ancestry that is both native and European, with the occasional Asian component. Matetic's forebears, for instance, came from the Dalmatic coast in former Yugoslavia. (Wine Maverick distributes Matetic's "EQ" brand in Atlanta.) Bernardo O'Higgins, founder of modern Chile, was of Spanish and Irish descent.

Spanish influence launched Chilean viticulture in the mid-1500s, as the country was in the onset of its Colonial era. The Spanish planted the hardy grape known as Pais, the same Mission grape they brought to California. Flash forward nearly 300 years, and Claudio Gay brought to Chile the first vitis vinifera grapes. About 60 varieties were brought from France to the Quinta Normal, then part of the University of Chile. French vines began serious cultivation 20 years later, stimulated by French influence and wealthy entrepreneurs with large fortunes.

Among the vines planted then in this process was Carmenere, then a routinely cultivated grape in Bordeaux. Carmenere declined in France, partly because of its susceptibility to couleur, a condition that drastically reducee yield. But it thrives in Chile, where in the 1980s it was finally discovered by a French ampilographer who looked at the leaves and the vines of what everyone thought was Merlot, and, in a matter of seconds, pronounced it the long-thought-extinct Carmenere.

That moment launched a whole new chapter in Chilean wine history. Carmenere today is established as Chile's signature red wine grape, but there's more: the scarce white varietal Sauvignon Gris, which comes from the Loire Valley in France. Although Chile produces all the standard popular French-based varieties, these two set the country apart as a distinctive wine-producing country. Two Sauvignon Gris wines are available in Georgia: Casa Silva (New World Wines) and Cousino-Macul (Atlanta Wholesale Wines/NDC), which just arrived.

Argentina may claim Malbec as its own, but Chile does a right smart job of it as well. Syrah now is getting a big push, although other Rhone varietals, such as Carignan, are old news. Some Italian varieties are starting to appear, mostly Sangiovese and Nebbiolo, but the plantings are few and far between. And there's some Riesling and Gewurztraminer. The Gewьrztraminer from Morande, which should appear soon in Atlanta, is really good.

The 1980s also marked the arrival in Chile of one of the giants of its current success, Miguel Torres, a Spaniard. Like his father's in Spain, Torres (Prestige Wine Wholesale) introduced clean, modern winemaking methods. But it takes time for all good things to come to flower, and for most consumers, the results began to appear in the marketplace in the mid-1990s.

French influence in Chilean winemaking is strong. Pablo Morande (Quality Wine & Spirits) is of French descent. Altair, a very extracted red blend from the winery of the same name, is associated with Chвteau Dassault, a St.-Emilion Grand Cru Classe. Rothschild of Bordeaux fame is behind Los Vascos.

I've been in Chile now twice to look at wines, once in 2002 and just this past week. When I left in 2002, I had the strong feeling things were about to move to the next level. I often asked then: "Why aren't you all taking advantage of these slopes? Why is everything planted in the valley?" Often, the answer was, "We're about to." And as I saw on this trip, they have. And will plant more on the slopes, usually Syrah and other grapes that need northern exposure so they can get long stretches of sun (remember, this is the Southern Hemisphere, so some things like exposures have to be flipped around from what we do here).

New appellations have opened up. You'll start to see wines from such D.O.s as San Antonio, Lontue, Leyda and Cachapoal (a sub-region of Rapel) alongside the more familiar Maipo, Casablanca, Colchagua and Rapel valleys. And rose is starting to peek around the corner. We've long since seen the Santa Digna Rose of Cabernet Sauvignon from Miguel Torres (Prestige Wine Wholesale), but others may soon appear as well.

While Chilean wines will continue to provide excellent values--the $11 Pinot Noirs we tasted are not to be believed for that money--the upper end now will start to see more action. The Santa Rita (Empire Distributing) "Casa Real" was among the first to launch the higher priced category ($50) in 1988. The 2002 is a big but balanced wine, with lots of fruit and the need for more time in the bottle to bloom. The 2001 vintage is available in Atlanta. The Errazuriz (United) Seсa is another; the just-arrived 2001 vintage goes for $65. The nonvintage Caballo Loco (New World Wines) from Valdivieso is a great value in at $45. And more are coming in this division.

You'll see more blends, mostly reds but also the occasional white blend. Finally, you're going to see some Chilean wines in screw cap; at the outset at least, they will be mostly on white wines. Vina Santa Rita's Sauvignon Blanc in the 120 series, its value line-up, will be in screw cap with the 2005 vintage, and the Reserva range will quickly follow as the company is very happy with how the wines are performing under this closure versus cork.

The phenomenal growth of Chilean wines since the mid-1990s is stunning, resulting in more than 360 wineries in the entire country. Throw in the awesome Andean landscape, the gorgeous weather at this time of year with flowering just a few days away in the vineyards for the 2006 vintage, the myriad unfamiliar flora in full bloom, and the truly splendid cuisine, and visiting Chile in November hardly seems like work.

Jane Garvey

Ceviche (drain the citrus completely), tabbouleh (very good), mousse of smoked salmon and dill, garlic shrimp, pasta salad with smoked mozzarella (Whole Foods), chicken satay with peanut sauce, striped bass in chipotle lime marinade (Whole Foods); pasta with lemon and fresh herbs; scallops or oysters baked with herbed butter and lemon. Unlike most Sauvignon Blanc, not especially good with goat cheese, and don't over do the lemon

Wholesaler: Continental Beverage Corp.
$14
770-427-1717

Full-bodied dry red wine, a blend of 50/50 Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Deep purple red color. Initial aromas reveal slightly dilly American oak (just 30%), but that sensation diminishes, and soon dark fruit aromas emerge. Flavors tilt toward clean, rich, dark fruit, suggesting (sure enough as it turns out) stainless steel for 70% of the wine. Tannins are generally easy, but show just.a nip of harshness in the very long finish. Serve cool, about 65 degrees, in tulip-shaped large-bowl glasses. A stellar value.

Peppered liver pаtй; empanadas, braised short ribs with mashed sweet potatoes, roast duck or Cornish hen, game (both feathered and furred), smoked beef ribs, grilled ham steak, roasted or grilled rack of lamb, roasted pork loin stuffed with prunes, firm aged cheeses (really nice with raw milk Parmigiano-Reggiano).

Note: Mourning the loss of their mother, Liliana, an artist, to breast cancer in 2000, brothers Alex (a wine importer) and Erik (a tattoo artist) Bartolomaus joined forces to bring the three Big Tattoo wines to the market. Alex made the blends, while Erik designed the label art. Both sons and their father, Alfredo, who is from Chile, wear fleur de lis tattoos in her memory. Since August 1, 2005, by dedicating a portion of the profits to breast cancer, more than a half million dollars have been raised to benefit a hospice in Northern Virginia.

Wholesaler: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC
$8
404-696-9440

Medium-to-full bodied dry red wine; deep red-edged purple. Aromas of purple plums, lively aromatic spice, sense of oak that's a bit harsh at first, but it fades as the wine opens. Delicious plummy fruit, dark chocolate notes, nice acidity. Initial vanilla note in the finish becomes more incorporated, especially in the presence of food. Long, softly tannic finish. None of the green bean character some Carmenere can acquire. Like it way better than I did previous vintages. Serve at cool room temperature, about 65 degrees, in tapered large-bowl glasses. At Whole Foods (Ponce de Leon)

Rich dishes and dishes with exotic spices; peppered liver pвtй, steak or tuna; legumes, lamb or beef steak, roast turkey, mole poblano, game (both furred and feathered), roast Cornish hen or duck, roast turkey, rabbit or turkey thigh meat cooked with prunes and sun-dried tomatoes, creamy blue cheeses, dark chocolate.

Wholesaler: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC
$13
404-696-9440

Full-bodied dry red wine; medium deep purple red. Fresh dark fruit aromas, especially plums. Flavors focus on dark fruits, plums, a bit of spice. Lush, juicy fruit borders on jammy but stops just short of it, making it more balanced. Great fruit-derived tannins (not stems or oak). Clean, juicy finish with long-lasting very pleasant tannins. Easy to drink now, but likely a good keeper. Syrah (60%); Carmeиre (25%), Petit Verdot (9%), Malbec (6%)--a classic South American blend. "Lien" means "silver" in the native Mapucho language of Chile. Decant a couple of hours ahead of serving at cool room temperature in large-bowled tulip-shaped glasses.

Very food friendly: pвtйs and terrines; antipasti; beef-filled empanadas; grilled sausages; red meat stews; coq au vin made with this wine; roasted red meats and game poultry; venison; grilled beef or lamb steak; roast pork; mole poblano; beef fajitas; ragoыt of mushrooms

Wholesaler: Continental Beverage Corp.
$14
770-427-1717

Full-bodied dry red wine; deep red-edged purple. Slight animal-earthy notes in the aromas, with a hint of compost; slight vanilla note, suggesting American oak (30% of the oak mix). Beautiful fresh dark fruits on the palate, with a hint of blueberry. Dark chocolate notes emerge. Lively acidity. Great balance. Mouthwatering, long finish. Tannic, but soft fruit-focused tannins (not oak or stems). Carignan (50%, from old dry-famed, bush vines), Syrah (43%), Merlot (3.5%), and Malbec (3.5%). A keeper. To serve: Decant at least 3 (better 5) hours before serving at cool room temperatures in large-bowled tulip-shaped glasses.

Pate and terrines (not peppered); braised red meat dishes (such as braised short ribs caramelized and cooked in full-bodied red wine); roast dark-meat turkey with roasted almond-crusted pumpkin, butternut or acorn squash slices, roast Cornish hen, pork tenderloin with mashed chipotle (go easy!) accented potatoes; grilled beef, lamb or ham steak; aged firm cheeses; dark chocolate.

Wholesaler: New World Wines
$35
404-347-9994

Available at Marietta Wine Market (off the Square); Wine Gallery & Market (Piedmont & Sidney Marcus); Town Square Wine & Spirits (Acworth); Restaurants: Wisteria (Poncey Highland); Joлl (Buckhead)

Medium-bodied sweet white wine; medium golden yellow. Aromas of ripe, sweet golden tropical fruits, such as pineapple, flavors blend pineapple, custard and grapefruit, and add a touch of exotic spice for complexity (ginger). Good acidity balances the 12.7% residual sugar, so the finish is clean and very long. Texture is silky, but not syrupy. Serve moderately chilled, about 55 degrees, in small tulip-shaped glasses.

Creamy blue cheeses, such as Cambozola; foie gras; custard tarts with fresh fruit; strawberries, kiwis; lemon squares (DeKalb Farmers Market), ginger-lemon pound cake, poached chilled pears with custard sauce or zabayon, simple cookies.

Wholesaler: Quality Wine & Spirits
$13/375 ml. bottle
404-367-9463