November 16th, 2006 Alexander Valley, Sonoma

Located in northern Sonoma County, between Healdsburg and just north of Cloverdale ending at the Sonoma-Mendocino line, Alexander Valley has a long history of grape growing dating back to the mid 19th century. The valley is named for pioneer Cyrus Alexander, who planted its first vineyard in 1846. Something of a classic mountain man, Alexander was a ranch manager for a local landowner and received 9,000 acres on the eastern side of the valley as payment for his efforts. He may or may not have made wine from his grapes, but he grew them, along with other fruit. Alexander Valley Vineyard names its superb iconic red blend in his honor. He would have felt himself very well compensated indeed had he ever tasted it.

Credit for the first winery goes to H. Kier, who launched his operation in Cloverdale in 1872. The Italians appeared just four years later in the person of Giuseppe and Peitro Simi (sound familiar?) who built their place just north of Healdsburg. By 1875, some 230 acres in Alexander Valley were planted in vineyard, a small contribution to the valley's overall agricultural picture, which was principally wheat, although orchard crops also were grown.

Experiencing the same ups and downs as the rest of California viticulture, Alexander Valley saw wild growth in the late 19th century, with ultimately 1,500 planted acres (half of it Zinfandel). The familiar names dot this period: Geyser Peak (1880); Italian Swiss Colony (1887), Chase Winery (predecessor of Napa Valley's Stag's Leap) in 1893 among them. Geyserville stood as the capital of brandy-making in the United States in this period.

6:25 AM November 15, 2006	Simi Hospitality Cottage	Los Amigos Vineyard

Boom led to bust in 1900, and phylloxera in the early 20th century didn't help matters any. While some vineyards were replanted, others turned in to orchards. Prohibition reduced the number of wineries to two, which sustained themselves, as did many in California, on the business of sacramental wine, while vineyards devoted their efforts and produce to supplying legal home winemakers.

From eight wineries in 1964, Alexander Valley has come back with all motors running, and today fields some 13,000 acres of grapes supplying 44 wineries. Declared an AVA (American Viticultural Area) in 1984, Alexander Valley today is the largest and most planted of Sonoma County's many grape-growing valleys.

While Simi and Geyser Peak serve as historic flagship properties for the valley, Château Souverain and Jordan Vineyards are the historic flagships of the valley's modern era. Kendall-Jackson and Gallo both have a stake in this region, while still others took advantage of the supple, fleshy-textured Cabernet Sauvignon and other red grapes to boost their quality red wines, among them Monterey-based Estancia.

Historic (1895) Italian influence shows in Seghesio, masters of Zinfandel, while relative newcomer Stuhlmuller (1982) makes exciting Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. Wattle Creek (1994) attracted Aussie winemaker Christopher Williams and his wife Kristine, although Williams has been around California for some 25 years.

Murphy-Goode is a leader here, as is Rodney Strong, whose founder passed away just this year after a career not only in winemaking but also, with his wife Charlotte, as a dancer with the great Blanchine. And now going into the valley's next chapter, Francis Ford Coppola has a new enterprise that will focus on both food and wine.

Most plantings are on the valley floor, although some are beginning to explore the lower edges of eastern hills. Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon rule the roost, but Sauvignon Blanc and Zinfandel may well be the stars of the AVA. Taste these, and decide what clangs your chimes.

Jane Garvey

Food Pairings: Roast turkey; roasted butternut squash, red onion and dried cranberry salad; squash-filled ravioli with mustard fruits; pork steaks with whole-grain mustard cream sauce; roast pork loin with fruit stuffing; grilled ham steak with sautйed apples and onions; grilled bratwurst with sauerkraut, mashed spuds and whole-grain mustard; soft assertive cheeses, such as Robiolo and French Muenster.

Price: $9
Wholesaler: Empire Distributing

Food Pairings: Peppered liver pâté; all manner of cured meats, such as salami, surpressata; sandwiches such as muffaletta and stromboli stuffed with sausage and peppers; Cuban sandwiches; sausage lasagna; dishes with linguiзa (a spicy Portuguese sausage widely sold in California--here find Wilshire brand at Whole Foods--just spicy enough); beef or pork fajitas; firm, aged cheese (Parrano, aged Gouda); No Mбs! ancho chile-accented dark chocolate cake (made by Metrotainment Bakery)--awesome.

Price: $23
Wholesaler: Prestige Wine Wholesale

Food Pairings: Varied food options: Smoked liverwurst and other smoked meats; salamis and other cured meats; peppered liver pâté; grilled lamb steak or braised lamb shank; meat-stuffed stromboli; dark meat turkey (but probably also white meat); beef stroganoff; grilled chicken breast with sun-dried tomato pesto; braised short ribs of beef; roast chicken; meat loaf; vegetable stews with legumes; creamy blue cheeses

Price: $26
Wholesaler: National Distributing Company

Food Pairings: Smoked liverwurst and other smoked meats; salami and other cured meats; grilled steak (with blue cheese or peppercorn sauce); beef stroganoff, furred game; mushrooms (stuffed Portobello mushrooms), roasted prime rib; firm aged cheese, creamy mild blues and goat cheeses

Price: $20
Wholesaler: Georgia Crown

Porter Creek Vineyards Angeli Vineyard “Old Vine” Carignane 2004

Score: 93 Points

Tasting Notes: Medium/full-bodied dry red wine; medium deep dark cherry red. Intense fresh dark and red fruit aromas, with flavors that fill the palate with delectable, juicy dark and red fruit flavors. The slightest touch of brown aromatic spice boosts complexity. Intriguing, with soft tannins. Easy to enjoy, but substantial in structure. Grape is a Rhфne Valley classic. Vines are so old, nobody knows exact age, but current owners go back 50 years, and vineyard was already established. Potential keeper 3-5 years with proper cellaring. Serve at cool room temperature, about 60 degrees, in tall tulip-shaped glasses.

Food Pairings: Peppered liver pвtй; salami and other cured meats; liver and onions, grilled ham steak; roast duck and turkey; grilled lamb steak and roast leg of lamb; lamb stews (navarin of lamb); braised short ribs of beef; vegetable stews; sun-dried tomato pesto with grilled chicken breast or roast pork tenderloin; feathered game; creamy blue cheeses and mild, creamy goat cheese; dark chocolate (about 55% cocoa)

Price: $24
Wholesaler: Quality Wine & Spirits

Simi Landslide Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2003

Score: 92 Points

Tasting Notes: Full-bodied dry red wine; deep inky ruby red. Spicy black currant aromas; deep, intriguing fruit flavors, with a texture suggesting wine has been neither filtered nor fined. Easy tannins. Lovely depth of flavor, concentration. Balanced, elegant and refined. Grapes: 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot, 1% Malbec. Serve at cool room temperature, about 65 degrees, in large tulip-shaped Bordeaux glasses.

Food Pairings: Smoked liverwurst; peppered liver pвtй; grilled steak; roasted standing rib; braised beef short ribs; roast duck; beef stroganoff; beef stews, grilled ham steak rack of lamb

Price: $25
Wholesaler: Georgia Crown