November 9th, 2006 Thanksgiving

Thanksgiving is a daunting time for wine lovers, insofar as choosing wine for the family dinner is concerned. The typical Thanksgiving dinner is loaded with a virtual collage of flavors, some of which can make wine pairing difficult, such as cranberry sauce or even sage. Family members covering at least three generations often are the guests, and attitudes toward wine may vary widely. It's tough to know what to do.

First, we suggest NOT getting out your finest old vintages for this feast, unless you plan to deviate substantially from the turkey/dressing/cranberry sauce norm. The wide variety of flavors offered at a typical Thanksgiving dinner will not do these delicate beauties any good whatsoever.

So rather than pouring a wine that you might want to sit and discuss, here's a novel notion: Choose a wine you will enjoying DRINKING!!! Serious wine discussions in this setting will only make the uninitiated feel out of the loop, and that's hot good hospitality.

All that said, bear in mind these few general propositions: If sage has a major role in the dressing, steer clear of white wine, as sage (especially the dried version found in many poultry seasonings) can give the wine a metallic taste. Oyster stuffing calls for a white wine, but make sure it's one with good acidity and fresh fruit flavors, and not a lot of oak. If sausage has a role in the dressing, go with red wine. With a simple bread stuffing of a slightly spicy deep-fried Cajun turkey, consider a rosé. Fear not a dry sparkling wine for the entire meal up to dessert, then finish with the Port we suggest in this column below. Chardonnay and turkey are a not a good idea, and Cabernet Sauvignon tends to be too big for this bird, too.

Of course, there are other winged things to choose for the main merriment at Thanksgiving, such as duck (medium-bodied red wine such as Pinot Noir) and Cornish hen (red or white depending on the stuffing, see below). Rich goose needs a red wine with good acidity, such as an Amarone.

Finally, as you spend time unwinding over the weekend and facing the proposition of saying grace again over some of the same material, don't omit wine from the enjoyment of the leftovers. But, again, make it a fun experience, and not a heavy, somber wine-swirling event.

  ¡Buen provecho!

Jane Garvey

Food Pairings: All sorts of appetizers: crab cake with Rémoulade sauce; shrimp/crab/red pepper mousse; Thai-style shrimp with lemongrass; crawfish salad; whole-grain mustard lemon shrimp; curried chicken or shrimp salad; Serrano ham. The rest of the meal: roast turkey (especially the dark meat); classic bread stuffing or sausage stuffing; roast Cornish hen with crabmeat/bread stuffing; roast duck with bread stuffing studded with dark dried fruits

Price: $19
Wholesaler: Georgia Crown

Food Pairings: Crabmeat cocktail; grilled garlic shrimp; shrimp/crab/red pepper mousse; crab cake; grilled bacon-wrapped scallops with honey mustard/mayonnaise dipping sauce; crabmeat-stuffing in roasted Cornish game hen; deep-fried Cajun turkey breast with apple/cranberry chutney. Aftermath: lightly curried turkey or chicken salad; turkey tetrazzini. One flavor it didn’t like was tarragon.

Price: $16
Wholesaler: Atlanta Wine Wholesale / NDC

Food Pairings: Crab cake with Rémoulade sauce; Serrano ham with pear; lightly curried shrimp or chicken salad (excellent); pumpkin or squash filled ravioli, brown butter. Rest of the meal: roast Cornish hen with crab meat/bread stuffing; roast turkey (especially white meat); slightly spicy deep-fried Cajun turkey. Other stuff: Asian fare with moderate spice.

Price: $19
Wholesaler: Prestige Wine Wholesale

Food Pairings: Pâtés and terrines; mushroom ravioli with garlic, olive oil-butter sauce and fresh parsley; salami and similar cured meats; grilled ham steak or baked ham; roast duck; rosat turkey with whole berry cranberry sauce and bread stuffing; roast pork loin stuffed with dark fruit bread stuffing; creamy blue cheeses (such as Cambozola)

Price: $11
Wholesaler: Georgia Crown

Brac de la Perrière Dom. des Gatilles Chiroubles 03
Chiroubles, Beaujolais, France


Score: 91 Points

Tasting Notes: Light- medium-bodied dry rd wine; medium dark cherry red with violet tones. Aromas of dark cherry and spice lead to refined red fruit flavors, with a spice-rich, full-flavored mid palate. Easy tannins. Long finished. Well-integrated components. Chiroubles, one of the nine cru Beaujolais, is an ideal introduction to the genre. A wine to enjoy, not to discuss. Grape type: Gamay. From a wicked hot vintage, well done! "Gatilles" are tiny lizards that populate the vineyard's almost 15 acres. Serve moderately cool, about 60 degrees, in medium tulip-shaped red wine glasses.

Food Pairings: Smoked liverwurst, grilled ham steak or baked ham, roast turkey with cranberry apple chutney, roast pork loin with dark fruit bread stuffing, deep-fried Cajun turkey, roasted boneless turkey breast stuffed with ham and Fontina cheese; grilled Cornish hen brushed with melted dark fruit jam thinned with red wine; firm aged cheeses

Price: $19
Wholesaler: LaFayette Selections

Churchill’s 10-Year-Old Tawny (NV)
Oporto, Portugal

Score: 90 Points

Tasting Notes: Full-bodied sweet dessert wine; medium ruby amber color. Aromas of toffee and caramel brown spices; silky-textured with brown spice, caramel and toffee flavors. Nice depth; good acidity. Balanced. Grapes: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesa, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, and Tinta Cao, all from Grade A vineyards Average 10 years in wood. Serve moderately chilled, about 50 degrees, or at cool room temperature, about 60-65 degrees, in small fluted glasses. Family-owned Churchill's was founded in 1981, one of the youngest of the Port houses.

Food Pairings: Serve chilled as an aperitif, perhaps with liver pвtй or foie gras. For dessert, with hazelnut- or almond-studded milk chocolate; creamy blue cheeses (Cambozola especially and hard cheeses (Manchego/ Parrano/Cheddar); dried fruits; nuts. Also nice with pumpkin pie; pecan pie; apple strudel; fig/coconut bars.

Price: $30
Wholesaler: Grapefields