| |
| |
Subscribe
Here
Wine review email sent weekly.
Where do you
find these wines?
The retailers listed below have been provided the current
wine review list TWO WEEKS before you so they can order
in advance! |
|
About a decade ago,
I was arranging a public tasting to benefit an organization
of which I was a member. I was supposed to choose a wine growing
region as a focus, and selected Oregon, which was emerging
from the shadows with all its motors running. Today, there
are 200+ wineries in Oregon, and it's no mystery to anybody.
But a decade ago, the number of wines distributed in Georgia
was low.
The group's chairman opposed the choice, preferring instead
to focus on Napa Valley. Now, Napa Valley is lovely and produces
some lovely wines, but to my ever-inquisitive journalistic
mind, it wasn't "news." He was concerned that Oregon
wouldn't draw enough interest. But I asked: What were the
chances anybody would come away from a Napa-focused event
having learned something? So I stuck to my guns.
We did seminars. The winemakers did special dinners in restaurants.
And in a relatively short time many of the smaller Oregon
wineries found distributors in Atlanta. Today, Oregon is certainly
not a mystery to most consumers.
But as wine growing bursts upon the American geography--look
what's happening in North Carolina alone--it behooves us to
find new regions. What about Long Island or the Finger Lakes
are in NY? Texas has wine worth tasting. And Virginia is drawing
close to 100 wineries. Why shouldn't we see what these folks
are doing?
Discovery is what keeps us on our toes, and keeps the juices
flowing. What makes us wonder what's around the next bend
in the road. It's as true with wine enjoyment as it is anything
else, from science to literature. It's the stuff of what life's
worth living for. Lose your passion for inquiry, for discovery,
for development, and what's it all about, Alfie? (You
severely date yourself if you know THAT reference.)
The wine world is ably represented by Napa and Sonoma; by
Champagne, Bordeaux and Burgundy; by Rioja and Priorato. But
there is so much more! I know a fellow who only writes about
Burgundy, focusing on the top producers, visits it every year
faithfully, and makes superior contributions to our understanding
of that vaunted wine-growing region of France. It takes that
kind of single-minded dedication to stay on top of such a
dense, even if small, region each year. Hats off! But I also
admire what small producers in Beaujolais accomplish. Some
year, I want to hide for about a month at Domaine de la Grosse
Pierre in Chiroubles (Beaujolais), a winery with a bed-and-breakfast
inn. Not to mention some very nice wine. . .
Bordeaux fans dote on every drop of what comes from the five
first growths as if they were the elixir of the gods, which,
to be honest, they are when they're on their game. Nothing
beats a properly aged Bordeaux from a great vintage. Even
the next tiers can offer sublime joy. My last taste of a 1961
Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou (2nd Growth) was just about a decade
ago, and it was one of those never-to-be-forgotten experiences.
But what a shame not to get to know Chŕteau Falfas in Cote
de Bourg on the OTHER side of the Gironde. Or Chŕteau Martinat
-- just to name a few. On that side of the river, the chŕteaux
are real peoples' homes, not just corporation-maintained icons.
There's something solid and down-to-earth about that side
of the river. So take the "bac" (ferry) some day
and get to know the other side of the Gironde. Those people
have a great sense of "barbecue," too.
As with other matters, it's lovely to get into hidden-away
wine regions. To discover one you've never heard of and savor
its fruits. To enjoy its landscape and get to know its inhabitants
and its culture. That, too, is part of wine, not just filling
one's glass or pairing well with one's food, although those
two objectives, certainly, are paramount.
Taste these and enjoy some of the wine world's more unusual
appellations.
Jane Garvey
|
|
Nugan Frasca's
Lane Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc '03
King Valley (Victoria), Australia
Score: 90 Points
Tasting Notes: Medium-bodied
dry white wine; medium pale greenish straw. Lime-rich aromas,
with flavors that focus on white fruit flavors, such as white
melon, tropical white fruits such as cherimoya, hint of star
fruit (carambola), suggestion of pineapple. Fruit very well
integrated with neutral oak (not at all oaky), as just 20% has
seen neutral oak. Wine is elegant, not at all that over-the-top
gooseberry business we've come to expect from AU Sauvignon Blanc,
and shows some minerality. Excellent value. King Valley lies
outside Melbourne: Take the Hume Hwy. toward Rutherglen, then
at Wangaratta, turn south along the King River. Italian-descended
farmers there are turning from tobacco to wine growing, and
the range of varieties planted, including Italian varieties,
is huge. Serve moderately chilled, about 55 degrees, in tulip-shaped
white-wine glasses. Food Pairings:
Shellfish and seafood: raw or fried oysters with lemon; grilled,
baked or fried scallops; crab cakes and crab-stuffed flounder,
shrimp or tilapia; clams Casino, grilled or baked mild grilled
medium-bodied fish (red snapper, striped bass, tilapia, flounder),
fried catfish. Also hummus; tabbouleh, cucumber/bell pepper
salad with feta cheese vinaigrette, roast chicken breast with
bread stuffing.
Price: $14
Wholesaler: Atlanta Wholesale Wine / NDC
|
|
|
Molissimo
Rosso I.G.T. 2003
Molise, Italy
Score: 88 Points
Tasting Notes: Full-bodied dry
red wine; medium deep purple red. Slightly floral spicy dark
fruit aromas, dark juicy fruit flavors, black currant and black
plum, bolstered by spice and sweet, supple fruit tannins. Molise
lies north of Apulia and south of Abruzzo on Italy's east coast.
Not a new region, Molise has hosted wine growing since Roman
times, but not much comes to the U.S. Grapes: Montepulciano
and Aglianico. Excellent value. Cool room temperature, about
65 degrees, in large-bowl tulip-shaped glasses. Pronounced mole-EEE-see-moh,
and the region mole-EEE-say.
Food Pairings: Wide food affinity,
but doesn't like aggressive garlic. Black olives and tepanade;
black-peppered chicken liver pâté; farfalle with wilted greens;
grilled beef with chimichurri sauce; grilled lamb; roast duck
or dark meat turkey; stews; veal, eggplant or chicken Parmesan;
veal or chicken al Marsala; assorted cheeses (goat, aged Parmesan,
bleu)
Price: $10
Wholesaler: Atlanta Wholesale Wine / NDC |
|
Recas Pinot
Noir 2003
Recas, Romania
Score: 88 Points
Tasting Notes: Medium-bodied
dry red wine; bright deep garnet red. Well-defined aromas of
savory strawberry, more to wild strawberry, with flavors to
match. A little touch of dried herb. Silky tannins. In line
with the classic flavors of Pinot Noir, but its own style. Winemaker
David Lockeley from Stellenbosch, South Africa, uses Romanian
and Hungarian oak to great effect. Oak notes are very subtle
and well-integrated. Decant about 30 minutes ahead of serving.
Moderately cool, about 60 degrees, in balloon-shaped glasses.
Food Pairings: Peppered liver
pate'; roasted chicken, duck or Cornish hen (with whole-wheat
celery walnut stuffing or raisin bread stuffing); grilled
chicken; roast or grilled bacon-wrapped pork tenderloin; anything
with cooked tomato, such as rabbit or chicken chasseur; veal
or chicken al Marsala, goat cheese
Price: $15
Wholesaler: Rhapsody Wines
|
|
|
Descendientes
de J. Palacios Petalos del Bierzo '04
Bierzo, Spain
Score: 89 Points
Tasting Notes: Full-bodied dry
red wine; deep but translucent purple red color. Aromas of blueberry,
fresh dark fruits, acquiring earthiness as wine opens; flavors
that add a bit of black pepper and spice to the mix. Sweet fruit
with just a hint of sweet cured tobacco. Solid fruit tannins,
with just a little bitterness and a very slight green note to
them (were grapes pressed gently?) . Concentrated. Grape: Mencía
(men-SEE-ah). Hand-harvested grapes from vines 40-90 years old,
grown on schist soils at 2500-3000 feet above sea level. A few
weeks in new French barriques, followed by 10 months in second-
and third-fill barrels. Unfined and unfiltered. Serve at cool
room temperature, about 60- 65 degrees, in tall wide-bowled,
tulip-shaped glasses. Food Pairings:
Rich, full-bodied foods: Peppercorn-covered chicken liver
pâté; garlicky pasta dishes; grilled lamb, beef or ham steak,
roast.duck; chicken or rabbit chasseur; rare hanger steak
with chimichurri sauce; smoked meats, roasted bacon-wrapped
pork tenderloin, game, firm aged cheeses
Price: $18
Wholesaler: Quality Wine & Spirits |
|
Familia
Schroeder Saurus Patagonia Pinot Noir '04
Patagonia, Argentina
Score: 88 Points
Tasting Notes: Medium-bodied
dry red wine; deep intense purple red. Aromas of dark plums
and vanilla (from oak); dark fruit (but not cherry) flavors,
plum flavors do most of the work, with notes of chocolate
and vanilla in support. Some American oak is rather obvious
at first sniff and sip, but becomes more integrated as wine
opens. Tannins are firm but not aggressive. Moderate acidity.
Unfiltered. No earthiness, but not a fruit bombe either. Serve
at cool room temperature, about 65 degrees, in large balloon-shaped
glasses.
Food Pairings: Peppered liver
pate'; roasted Cornish hens, duck and other game fowl; roasted
or grilled lamb; veal chops; smoked roast chicken; game; roast
pork loin or fresh ham. Very cheese friendly: strong bleu;
creamy goat cheese; firm aged mild cheeses (such as Parrano,
at Whole Foods). Ok with dark chocolate.
Price: $17
Wholesaler: New World Wines
|
|
Foley Syrah
"Rancho Santa Rosa" 2002
Santa Rita Hills (Santa Barbara County), CA
Score: 88 Points
Tasting Notes: Full-bodied dry
red wine; medium deep dark purple red. Complex aromas blend
blueberry, dark cherry, black currant and white pepper--typical
of Syrah--but supremely well knit. Flavors reflect what the
aromas promise. Tannins are resolved and fruit sweet. Clean,
sweet fruit-filled finish. A little heat in the finish, but
rich foods handle this. Altogether delicious. Part of Santa
Ynez Valley, Santa Rita Hills is an independent AVA. Known mostly
for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay country. Micro-farmed, 460-acre
Rancho Santa Rosa vineyard holds only eight acres planted to
Syrah. Cool room temperature, in large tulip-shaped glasses.
Food Pairings: Meat wine:
Argentine asado de tira (grilled short ribs); buffalo hangar
steak; steak or all sorts, grilled lamb; rich, firm, aged
cheeses (such as Parrano) and creamy blue cheeses; steak with
a blue cheeses sauce; dark (but not too bitter) chocolate.
Santa Maria barbecue, a unique California form of the genre,
would be superb with this wine.
Price: $30
Wholesaler: National Distributing Co.
|
|
|
|
