Where do you find these wines in GA? Letters to Jane Garvey May 4th 2006 The White Pinots

Thanks to the film Sideways, Pinot Noir is enjoying a popularity boom that defies its typically pricey cost. Recently in South Africa, I heard about an American couple touring there who refused to taste the Merlot from the winery they were visiting, thanks partly to the disparaging remark the film's main character makes about the variety. They insisted on tasting a Pinot Noir, but that winery didn't make one. (Pinot Noir isn't widely grown in South Africa, but it's coming on strong, as more cool climate wine-growing regions are identified and planted.)

I had to wonder as I listened to this (embarrassing) story--what that couple would have thought were they to be presented with Pinot Blanc, a genetic descendant of Pinot Noir? I'm also reminded of the story I just heard about a wine enthusiast in the nation's capital who called up his retailer and placed an order for "Pinots" that had scored 90 and above. After the wines were delivered, he called the retailer back and exclaimed in horror: "But they're all WHITE!!!!"

Recounting these stories put me in a mood to write about the white versions of Pinot Noir, a subject that may come as a surprise to some. Indeed, some very good wines are white and many of them score 90 and above.

Historically, Chardonnay once was called “Pinot Chardonnay.” But over time, that term fell from favor, leaving the field to mostly Pinot Blanc (or Bianco in Italy) and Pinot Gris (or Grigio in Italy) specifically, or what in Germany are called Weissburgunder (also Austria) and Grauburgunder (for the drier versions) or Rulander (for the sweeter versions). Pinot Grigio has become wildly popular among consumers who substitute it for Chardonnay, but unfortunately some of what's produced is going the same way as Merlot--fat, flabby, acidless wines of absolutely no character or ability to go with food. Cheap, mass-produced Pinot Grigio is right up there with bad movies, bad dates, and over-marinated steaks. I could go on, but you get the drift.

And another thing: Yes, you can spend plenty of money for one very well advertised brand of Pinot Grigio, but, why? There is plenty of especially good Pinot Grigio varities at excellent prices that come from northern Italy (in particular, Alto Adige and the Friuli). See the Pighin below for a case in point.

Both Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris, or Grigio, are mutations of Pinot Noir. But Pinot Blanc is another step removed from Pinot Noir, as it's a mutation of Pinot Gris. Pinot Gris bunches will often present a rainbow of colors, sometimes on the same bunch, ranging from a gray color (hence its name) to a brown-hued pink. Pinot Blanc grapes, on the other hand, are pretty much a uniformly greenish yellow.

While not all are vinified in stainless steel, it certainly is the most appropriate medium for these grapes. Stainless steel keeps the fruit flavors in top form. These wines should not be served wicked cold, around 55-60 degrees will do for all of them. Choose tall tulip-shaped white wine glasses for serving them. You will especially enjoy their food friendliness as warmer weather approaches.

Jane Garvey

Food Pairings: Creamy goat cheese (with or without fresh herbs); crab/lobster dip; grilled scallops or shrimp with remoulade sauce (but not heat spicy); tarragon chicken salad with almonds; shrimp or scallops on grits with garlic cream gravy; chicken breast in whole mustard cream sauce; calamari with lemon aioli, veal scaloppini with lemon

Price: $14
Wholesaler: Quality Wine & Spirits

Food Pairings: Everything short of steak. An aperitif with classic French onion dip and chips; warm crab/lobster dip; herbed fresh cheeses, grilled garlic shrimp. Also pasta with herbed cream sauces; grilled scallops with garlic aпoli; creamy dishes with white poultry, fish or veal; baked halibut with garlic; baked crab-stuffed tilapia, flounder or shrimp; whole baked Dover sole; grilled herb-stuffed trout

Price: $15
Wholesaler: National Distributing Co.

Food Pairings: Creamy crab/lobster dip with crackers; lentil salad with orange and sweet onion (especially good), poached or baked salmon, nice with smoked salmon too; rich chicken pot pit, crab-filled creamy fish (such as tilapia); mild Thai seafood and chicken dishes, butternut squash ravioli with olive oil and garlic sauce, chicken, rabbit or pork tenderloin with whole-grain mustard cream sauce

Price: $19
Wholesaler: Empire Distributors

Food Pairings: Wide range of food companionability: Scallops wrapped in bacon, grilled, with mustard-mayonnaise; poached chicken breast with trace of curried mayonnaise on a bed of greens; Caesar chicken salad; grilled chicken apple sausage; chicken or shrimp tarragon; lemon Pommery shrimp; crab and crab cakes; grilled or poached salmon

Price: $21
Wholesaler: Grape Expectations

Etude Pinot Gris 2004
Carneros, CA

Score: 93 Points

Tasting Notes: Full-bodied dry white wine; very pale straw. Awesome aromas of white stone fruits, with a whiff of warm stone on a hot day. Flavors focus on the same white stone fruit (white peach) character, with minerality like crazy setting it apart from the crowd. Not a shred of oak. All stainless steel fermentation. Owes much to the Alsace, but with a decided California exuberance. The finish doesn't know how to quit. Wonderful! Serve moderately chilled, about 55 degrees. The 2005 will be released in June.

Food Pairings: Can handle exotic flavors, such as sweet (not hot) curries, from Indian biryani to classic curried chicken salad with minced apple and celery. Also try with Malaysian curries, which are sweeter rather than wicked hot. Chicken with lemon and olives, grilled chicken apple sausages; lemon Pommery shrimp, grilled scallops with honey mustard, classic Southern fried chicken or catfish.

Price: $24
Wholesaler: United Distributors

Food Pairings: Not too sweet desserts, such as simple lime sugar cookies; orange almond tarts, English almond tarts, custard tarts,, sauteed pears with creamy blue cheese; panna cotta with fresh fruit; poached chilled peaches with creme anglaise.

Price: $24/375ml
Wholesaler: National Distributing Co.