June 29th, 2006 Summer Sparklers

Short of a cold beer, what could be more refreshing on a hot day than a sparkling wine? The bubbles perk up the palate, supplying a sensuous tingle while flavors dance all over and crisp acidity gives lift to any food. Light everything is the order of the day; light food and crisp, light wine.

But do we really want to spend $50 or so a bottle? And if guests are legion, it's all the more imperative to find something nice that fits the wallet.

Mercifully, there are lots of choices besides Champagne, which, to be sure, is the benchmark of bubbles. Still, one can explore other options and not spend quite so much money while still drinking a respectable wine.

Sparkling wine comes in all manner of shapes and flavors. The classic grapes for Champagne are Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. Blanc de Blancs means the wine is entirely made of white wine grapes; while Blanc de Noirs denotes the inclusion of the red grapes.

But after this, anything goes. German sekt is made from Riesling. Spain's cava includes three traditional grapes: Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel.lo. Italy's Prosecco is, well, Prosecco, a grape type, while sparkling Moscato is made from the grape of the same name. South Africa's Cap Classique follows traditional French models, thanks partly to the Huguenots who settled there in the late 17th century. In eastern Canada, I've tasted pleasant sparkling made from Seyval. And, of course, there are all the sparkling reds (primarily from Australia) now so much in vogue.

Sparkling wine is very flexible in its ability to pair with food. The typically good acidity--the grapes are usually picked at about 19 degrees BRIX to ensure it--and moderate alcohol make sparkling wine a good choice with food or as an aperitif.
This week's chosen six seem especially suited to coping with summer's heat. Serve these chilled, about 50 degrees, in fluted glasses.



Jane Garvey

Food Pairings: Grilled shrimp, Chinese-seasoned (five spice powder and soy sauce) quickly marinated hangar steak; grilled Cornish hen, Asian appetizers; lightly smoked salmon, grilled lamb tenderloin, Chinese barbecue, not bad with ikura and sushi. Brunch. The winery says desserts, but I think it's too crisp and dry for that.

Price: $7
Wholesaler: Quality Wine & Spirits

Food Pairings: All manner of light, delicately seasoned nibbles: sushi; ikura on crackers with a dab of crema mexicana, Asian dumplings; Korean seafood pancake; grilled scallops with honey mustard-mayonnaise dipping sauce; seafood mousses. Also very nice with lightly smoked salmon and mashed potatoes purйed with caramelized onions.

Price: $13
Wholesaler: LaFayette Selections

Food Pairings: Tapas: Grilled garlic (easy) shrimp; ensaladilla rusa (mixed cut vegetables and tiny shrimp bound with a garlic home-made mayonnaise); tortilla de patata; seafood mousse; Asian dumplings with ponzu dipping sauce; salt cod fritters; tiny crab cakes; cold steamed mussels with home-made mayonnaise; sushi

Price: $12
Wholesaler: Prestige Wine Wholesale

Food Pairings: Asian-flavored hangar steak (perhaps the best of the lot with this); Asian barbecue; grilled lamb tenderloins; gently smoked salmon; grilled ham steak, lamb or beef steak salad with a soft red wine vinegar dressing, beef or pork fajitas

Price: $16
Wholesaler: Grapefields

Rosell Boher Brut NV
Mendoza, Argentina

Score: 88 Points

Tasting Notes: Full-bodied slightly sweeter than brut sparkling wine; medium gold. Aromas of toast, quince, yeast, flavors, backed by good acidity, tilt toward stone fruit, citrus and toasted bread. Small persistent bead. Complex, rich, and yet crisp in the finish. Long, clean, crisp finish, but never loses sight of the fruit. Grapes: Pinot Noir (60%) and Chardonnay (40%).

Food Pairings: A meal wine: Baked flounder stuffed with crab meat; with creamy mashed potatoes; Asian fish dishes, such as Korean seafood pancakes or fish in lobster sauce; crab cakes; baked salmon; mild fish wrapped in parchment paper with vegetables and baked at high heat on a cookie sheet

Price: $29
Wholesaler: New World Wines

Food Pairings: Brunch with a "Redneck Benedict" specifically poached eggs on grits or on cornbread topped with good sausage cream gravy; corned beef hash, poached eggs and Hollandaise sauce. Also gently smoked salmon (awesome with this), Asian-flavored hangar steak; California roll, Korean pancake

Price: $30
Wholesaler: Grapefields