July 6th, 2006 Barbecue Wines

Interesting that little word "barbecue." Depending on which theory you elect to grace with belief, the word comes from either Spanish or French, or some Native New World language. If from Spanish or French, it derives from the notion that one has cooked a pig from his beard to his tail, from the barba to the cola. Subject a word to a little cross-cultural manipulation, and "barbecue" emerges.

No matter its origins, it infers cooking something over a wood fire. Go to Argentina, and it's called an asada. Churrascaria comes to the lips in other lands. South Africa calls it a braai, and most homes have some sort of contraption built into the wall in either the dining room or perhaps an enclosed or open porch for the purpose of engaging in the national culinary pastime. Koreans call theirs bool-go-gi. The Chinese do excellent barbecue. And perhaps one could consider teriyaki a form of barbecue. And on it goes.

But what gets laid across the embers can vary widely. Even in this country, the term "barbecue" doesn't mean the same thing in all parts of the country. I tried valiantly to explain this once to a French winery representative who had justified having "sweetened" up one of their wines for the American palate. "Just look at barbecue sauce," she said. "Well," I answered, "don't try that one in North Carolina, where vinegar and pepper is the preferred style." She was stunned. Had never heard of such a thing. Much less South Carolina's mustard-based sauce.

Many years ago, I finished a trip to Long Island's wine country, and was invited to a "barbecue," but couldn't stay as I had an appointment with an airplane to come home. "What'll y'all have?" I queried. Out came a litany of anything BUT pork: lobster: shrimp; chicken. Say WHAT? I've heard Californians talking about barbecue, and they meant turkey. Gimme a break. And of course in Texas it's beef or bust, and Kansas City-style 'cue depends on smoked brisket for its pleasure giving.

It took me three cracks at a braai before I saw anybody throw some red meat on the grate. I was getting desperate. My first braai four years ago focused on veggies and fish. That lovely yellow tail tuna you get in South Africa was the centerpiece of the second one. Only finally, the night before leaving on this trip, did I meet up with a bunch of women who insisted on cooking meat. At last! Even though braai cooking is traditionally the provenance of the menfolk. As in the South with the term barbecue, braai in South Africa denotes not only the cooking act, but also the gear used for cooking and the social event surrounding the cooking. And the eating.

Grilling, which is what Southerners would call much of the aforementioned culinary activity, is a different subject from barbecue, which traditionally in the South means a whole pig slow cooked in a pit. You can do hams and shoulders, too. Or ribs. That rich smokiness is tempered by sauces that can range from mild to hot, be tomato-based or not, be vinegar-based or not, or mustard-based. Then Memphis has its style of wet and dry-rubbed 'cue, while in Alabama you'll sometimes find a unique white sauce, the invention of a fellow from Decatur, AL, named Bob Gibson. Midwestern style 'cue sauce is thick, tomato-based and tends to sweetness, even if made slightly piquant.

And let's not forget California's unique entry into the field: Santa Maria-style barbecue, for which a spice-laden (but not hot) seasoning is rubbed on beef which is then cooked until it's no longer rare. Santa Maria-style 'cue does go well with wines. If you saw the film Sideways, Miles met his heartthrob at the Hitching Post, which also produces wine under that label.

You see the vexing wine-pairing problem: One has to be specific as to what wines will go with what kinds of sauces. Acid and sugar levels in the sauces can wreak havoc with wines. And individual ingredients have to be factored in if there is a rub.

So before we're going to pair up wines with barbecue, let's make sure we understand exactly what the term means. I wouldn't have wanted to show up at that Long Island "barbecue" with a bunch of red wines under my arm. Cabernet and grilled lobster? Oops.

So how do you determine what to pair with barbecue? If you're grilling fish or veggies, steer clear of any white wine that has a lot of oak. You want fresh, vibrant, snappy flavors and a clean, crisp finish.

For barbecued chicken or other light meats, consider a dry rosé. In fact, rosé may provide the best "fail safe" choice if you don't know what is going to be lurking on that grill and you're asked to supply the wine. Rosé would have been fine at that Long Island "barbecue," for instance. But it would also work with a whole pig or shoulders smoked all day over a slow fire, and even with beef brisket and Texas ribs, as long as they are laden with sweet, thick sauce.

Reds should exhibit good fruit and easy tannins. Hot alcohol and oak-smokiness aren't a lot of fun, in my view. The assumption that Zinfandel works with barbecue is to be questioned. After that, check the sauce, if true Southern 'cue is the order of the day. If you're dealing with vinegar-pepper sauce, make sure you have good acidity in your wine. Very piquant sauces--the "hotter than hell" variety that produce at least four rapid-fire hiccups--require beer.

Jane Garvey

Food Pairings: Ideal if the term "barbecue" means to you the Long Island version with shrimp, lobster, chicken or roasted oysters with drawn lemon butter. White bean dip with garlic; grilled and chilled scallops with aпoli; tiny cocktail potatoes stuffed with herbed/garlic-flavored Boursin; veal, turkey or chicken tonnato (tuna sauce made with mayonnaise blended with a can thereof); grilled turkey breast. (use a very neutral wood or gas grill)

Price: $24
Wholesaler: Big Boat Wine Co.

Food Pairings: Creole barbecued shrimp, Chinese barbecue, Memphis-style ribs (both wet and dry), grilled ham steak, barbecued chicken (really good), barbacoa-stuffed burritos with black beans and rice, and probably also turkey and lamb, grilled veggies. Try with a muffaletta as well.

Price: $11
Wholesaler: Quality Wine & Spirits

Food Pairings: Smoked sausage, Kansas City or Texas beef brisket; Memphis-style ribs (dry or wet rub); barbecued chicken with slightly spicy tomato-brown sugar sauce; grilled ham steak or other grilled meats, chorizo, grilled or smoked sausage.. I'd take a chance on it with grilled 'burgrers.

Price: $18
Wholesaler: Quality Wine & Spirits

Food Pairings: Smoked pork ribs solo or with a full-bodied garlicky chipotle flavored sauce; Texas-style beef ribs; not bad with chicken with an eastern Carolina-style thin vinegar-tomato-pepper sauce (Martin's from Barnesville, GA), barbacoa with black beans, smoked sausage.

Price: $15
Wholesaler: Grapefields

Pecan Stream Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz 2004
Stellenbosch, South Africa

Score: 88 Points

Tasting Notes: Full-bodied dry red wine; deep inky purple red. A touch of animal earthiness (from Shiraz) and lots of spice and a whiff of cedar, lending complexity to the wine; dark fruit flavors. Some hint of dark fruitcake. Firm tannins, but not aggressive. Alcohol is a bit hot, but wine works with food. Cabernet Sauvignon (60%), Syrah (25%), Mourvdre (5%), Cabernet Franc (5%), and nnd Merlot (5%). Short-term keeper, 1-3 years. Serve at cool room temperature, about 60 degrees.

Food Pairings: More of the "grilling" style of barbecue: Beef or lamb steak, ribs, ham steak, 'burgers, smoked pork chops, grilled sausages, plus appetizers such as smoked liverwurst (from Patak), moderately ripe cheeses

Price: $14
Wholesaler: Ultimate Distributors

Food Pairings: Smoked meat whether ribs of chicken with mild piri-piri sauce (see Zulu brand at Cape Food and Beverage off Peachtree Industrial Blvd. or at Harry's Alpharetta); Memphis-style dry-rub ribs; anything with a bit of heat to it, but not too hot, mildly spicy barbacoa-filled burritos with black beans and rice, smoked sausages and chorizo. Doesn't much like Brunswick stew.

Price: $15
Wholesaler: Three Sisters