| |
|
|
Subscribe
Here
Wine review email sent weekly.
Where do you
find these wines?
The retailers listed below have been provided the current
wine review list TWO WEEKS before you so they can order
in advance! |
|
|
January
19th, 2006
Central Coast Gems
|
 |
Mining The Central Coast
Central Coast is a huge catch-all California AVA (American
Viticultural Area), stretching through eight counties from
Contra Costa just northeast of San Francisco to Santa Barbara
in the South. Sideways
enthusiasts have already picked up on Santa Barbara, the landscape
for much of the filming.
Going from north to south, the familiar appellations include
Livermore Valley (Alameda County); Santa Cruz Mountains (Santa
Cruz County, just south of San Francisco), Santa Lucia Highlands,
just east of Carmel Valley; and Arroyo Seco (Monterrey County);
Cienega Valley (San Benito County); Arroyo Grande, Edna Valley,
Paso Robles, York Mountain (San Luis Obispo County); Santa
Maria, Santa Ynez and Santa Rita valleys (Santa Barbara County).
Along this extensive corridor, linked by US 101 and CA 1,
which spurs northward off US 101 just north of Santa Barbara,
one savors exquisite views of the Pacific Ocean. Sandwiched
between these two scenic highways lies a wealth of vineyards
growing a wide variety of grape types. Wines from this vast
region will typically be labeled from the specific regions
within the Central Coast. However, if the grapes come from
a variety of regions within the area, then the appellation
on the label will carry the more geneic Central Coast.
When it comes to grape types, the region is very much about
Rhone varieties (Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier, Syrah, Mourvedre,
Grenache, etc.), German varieties (Riesling and Gewurztraminer),
and Burgundy (Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in Santa Lucia Highlands
and Santa Barbara) than it is about Bordeaux varieties. One
of the best dry Gewurztraminers I've ever had, the Clairborne
& Churchill, is from San Luis Obispo. That's what I tasted
with lunch (poached chicken breast on a bed of greens with
a tracing of delicately flavored curry mayonnaise) during
my pre-Sideways visit to the Los Olivos Cafe, where the two
couples in the film had dinner. And I hear the C & C Riesling
also is excellent as well.
Paso Robles -- A Warmer Place
Zinfandel, too, is quite at home in this region, especially
in Paso Robles, which holds an excellent Zinfandel
festival in March each year (March 17-19, 2006). I far
prefer it to ZAP
in San Francisco, as I find it more serious and down-to-earth.
Also, the heat index here can support sun-loving varieties
like Cabernet Sauvignon, which thrives. But it is the Rhone
varieties which make up the Central Coast line-up, celebrated
at the annual Hospice
du Rhone, which touts itself as the world's largest celebration
of Rhone varieties.
Atlanta native (and Georgia Bulldog) Mat Garretson, who has
his own winery operation in Paso Robles, is one of the main
driving forces behind this superb event, scheduled for May
11-13, 2006. Attend it, and you'll also likely run into Terry
Hoage, the College Football Hall of Famer (2000) who played
on the 1980 UGA national championship team and as a professional,
on the 1992 Washington Redskins Superbowl Championship team.
Hoage now grows grapes in Paso Robles, and has collaborated
with Garretson. Both advocate Rhone varieties.
But if you don't want to hop a plane, you can taste Paso Robles
wines on February 1, 2006, at the Fox Theatre, when a good
cross-section of the vineyards comes to town for a tasting.
Tickets, costing $40 for the 5:30-7:30 p.m. event, may be
ordered at www.pasowine.com.
So give this enormous stretch of California some serious attention
when looking for wines from America's "wine basket."
You'll be well rewarded.
Jane Garvey
|
Where to Get: At DeKalb Bottle
House #2 (Briarcliff Rd./Clairmont), Embry Village Wine &
Spirits, Merchants Package, Parkaire, Peachtree Road Liquor.
Restaurants: Blackstone, Five Seasons Brewing, TWO Urban Licks
(in keg), Vinocity, Company, Sala Sabor de Mexico, Spotted Dog |
Vin-Sanity
Chardonnay 2004
Central Coast (50% Monterrey; 50% Santa Barbara)
Score: 88 Points
Tasting Notes: Medium-bodied
dry white wine; bright greenish yellow, typical of Chardonnay.
Very clean aromas of tropical fruits (pineapple) and pear, clean
fruit flavors focus on pear with a touch of fig in the finish,
which is just a mite hot. Good acidity. Just half went through
malolactic fermentation, to round the flavors. Serve moderately
chilled, about 55 degrees, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses
at 55 degrees.
Food Pairings: Likes exotic
seasonings better than herbs. Best pairing, curried chicken
salad; also good with raw oysters (skip the lemon), pasta
with saffron cream sauce; salads with sesame oil (Dekalb Farmers
Market's bok choy salad), roast breast of chicken rubbed with
aromatic spices (not pepper), fried seafood and fish with
tartar sauce, hummus, goat cheese, Three Little Pigs' Pàte
de Volaille au Armagnac (rougher textured than a pate, though,
so more like a terrine)
Price: $15
Wholesaler: Quality Wine & Spirits
|
|
Where to Get: Atlanta: Alon’s;
Dekalb Farmers Market; Fresh Market; Tower (Piedmont); Whole
Foods (all); The Wine Store; Restaurants: The Globe; Muss
& Turners (glass & bottle); Perlino’s (Norcross);
Athens: ABC Package; Wine & Spirits Warehouse; Restaurant:
Mia Madonna; Augusta: Oconee Wine Cellars; J&L Wine &
Spirits (Centre at Fury's Ferry; Martinez); Summerville Ace
|
Rock Rabbit
Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Central Coast
Score: 88
Tasting Notes: Medium-bodied
slightly off-dry white wine; medium pale greenish straw. Aromas
of freshly cut herbs, white peach with a touch of grapefruit
blasts out of the glass; white peach and grapefruit flavors
throughout the palate. Perhaps a notch of residual sugar rounds
out texture, while good acidity keeps flavors fresh. Long finish.
Very nice. No oak. 6% Gewürztraminer, perhaps an odd pairing
with Sauvignon Blanc, but it's tasty. First-rate value. Serve
moderately chilled in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses at 55
degrees. Food Pairings: Fresh
herb-accented foods best with this wine: Tabbouleh; raw oysters
(dab of lemon ok); mild fish baked in lemon-basil butter;
potato or pasta tossed with Boursin cheese or other herbed,
garlic-scented cheese; goat cheese; tarragon chicken or shrimp
Price: $13
Wholesaler: Prestige Wholesale
|
Where to Get: At Cost Plus
World Market, Dixie Beverage (Woodstock); Sigman Bottle Shop
(Conyers); Augusta: The Vineyard at Evans Restaurants: Shrimp
Docks at Kilkenny (Richmond Hill, near Savannah) |
Delicato
Monterra "Encore" Dry Rose Medley 2002
San Barnabe Vineyard, Monterey County
Score: 90
Tasting Notes: Medium-bodied
medium light red dry rosé wine. Aromas of cranberry and brown
aromatic spices, with clean, spicy red fruit flavors, ranging
from cranberry to red cherry. Complex, with a decently long
crisp, dry finish. More of a light red than a pink rosé. Rosé
classicists may take issue with it, as it's something of a controversial
style. But I say just enjoy it. Grapes: Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet
Sauvignon and Pinot Noir--a cross-regional blend. Don't let
this vintage scare you; it's drinking beaituflly. Tasted twice.
Serve moderately chilled, about 55 degrees, in a medium-sized
tulip-shaped glass, such as Riedel's Zinfandel glass. Food
Pairings: Shrimp with mild remoulade sauce (Whole Foods);
pizza with goat cheese, eggplant, garlic and onion; mild salami,
such as Rosette de Lyon; Serrano ham; chorizo; picadillo;
slightly spicy fried chicken; thinly sliced rare flank steak,
chipotle-flavored sweet potatoes; Moroccan dishes if not too
hot (so watch the harissa), baked spaghetti
Price: $17
Wholesaler: Georgia Crown
|
Where to Get: Available chiefly
in restaurants, so order from retailer. Taste by the glass
at Blackstone, Pano's & Paul's. |
Zaca Mesa
Z Cuvee 2002
Santa Ynez Valley
Score: 91
Tasting Notes: Full-bodied dry
red wine; medium deep dark cherry red. Big red and black fruit
aromas, with a touch of crushed dried herb, and an occasional
whiff of animal, perhaps contributed by the Syrah. Flavors focus
on the blackberry/red raspberry profile. Rich, deep, distinctive,
with easy tannins. Good acidity makes for a mouthwatering finish.
Likely has 5-7 years to go if well cellared. Grapes: Grenache;
Mourvedre, Syrah, Cinsault. French oak. Cool room temperature,
about 60-65 degrees, in generous tulip-shaped glasses. Food
Pairings: Likes spice, especially black pepper. Black
peppercorn-crusted liver pate; cold rare steak with garlic
mayonnaise; braised ox tails with vegetables (awesome); smoked
meats; portobello muishrooms, either sliced and sauteed or
stuffed; steak and mushroom pie;
Winery recommends: Herbs & Spices - Basil, oregano, rosemary,
fennel; Vegetables - Beets, eggplant, tomatoes, beets, mushrooms'
Fish & Seafood - Salmon, tuna (baked, grilled, sauteed)'
Meats - Bacon, beef, duck, lamb, game; Cheeses - Aged cheddar,
brie Other - BBQ, pizza, tapas
Price: $16
Wholesaler: Georgia Crown
|
Where to Get: Good availability:
DeKalb Bottle House, The Grape (all), Marietta Wine Market (off
the Square), Southern Wine & Spirits Restaurants: Blue Ridge
Grill, Garrison's, Taurus, The Warren City Club (a dining club
in Virginia-Highland) |
Austin Hope
Westside Red 2002
Paso Robles
Score: 92
Tasting Notes: Full-bodied dry
red wine; deep purple red. Aromas of blackberries, touch of
blueberry, luscious juicy black fruit flavors, blackberries.
Easy, very fine tannins. Voluptuous texture. Long finish, with
fruit/acidity in harmony. Well balanced. Grapes: Syrah, Grenache,
Mourvèdre, all Rhone varieties. Serve at cool room temperature,
about 60-65 degrees, in large-bowl tall glasses.
Food Pairings: Ok with simple
red meats, such as baked ham, steak, or grilled or roasted lamb
or pork tenderloin. But really shines with spicier fare, such
as lamb rogan josh (keep the heat down, tho), steak and mushroom
pie, dishes flavored with cumin; lasagne, well-seasoned legume
dishes, rabbit or dark meat turkey with tomato and country ham;
smoked meats, tamarind-rubbed beef short ribs, lamb barbecue.
And for dessert, dark chocolate.
Price: $19
Wholesaler: Empire Distributing
|
Where to Get: Order from retailer.
At Charlie's 2 (Bell's Ferry Rd., Acworth), and they love it
there. |
Thomas Fogarty
Pinot Noir 2001
Santa Cruz Mountains
Score: 88
Tasting Notes: Medium-bodied
dry red wine; bright dark cherry red color. Aromatic, definite,
but not overpowering, red cherry and brown spice, flavors focus
on red cherry and spice, but pick up a bit of dried herb. Soft
tannins. Lingering finish, especially one the wine has had a
chance to develop in the glass. Gets downright seductive, in
fact. 2002 vintage is bigger, pairs better with grilled lamb,
but still isn't over-the-top, as are so many California Pinot
Noirs. Suggest decanting perhaps 30 minutes to an hour before
serving at cool room temperature in generous bowl-shaped glasses.
Federally recognized as an AVA since 1981, the Santa Cruz Mountains
AVA lies along the Pacific Coast south of San Francisco. Cabernet
Franc, Petit Verdot--the Bordeaux line-up.
Food Pairings: Creamy goose
liver mousse; peppered dishes; roast duck and grilled duck
breast, quail and chicken; grilled portobello mushrooms, cold
thinly sliced rare steak, braised or roast breast of veal,
dark meat turkey cooked with tomato, pappardelle or other
pasta with rabbit sauce, lamb or pork tenderloin stroganoff
on noodles, grilled portobello mushroom
Price: $28
Wholesaler: Quality Wine & Spirits
|
|
|
|
