February 16th , 2006 Anything But Chardonnay (ABC) Where do you find these wines in GA?

Many years ago, a young man came up to me at a tasting and asked, "Is there anything to drink in white wines but Chardonnay?"

My answer to him was absolutely visceral: "Good heavens, Yes!!!" I said, and proceeded to rattle off a litany of grape types, almost none of which stuck with him I'm sure.

Even though today I would answer him differently--I hit him with an information overload--the market has risen to the occasion, bringing to town a virtual fruit salad of choices. Pinot Grigio has grabbed a good share of the non-Chardonnay white wine business, although much of it is the flabby acidless quaffing material from the Veneto that's as hard to put with food as a big, oaky, buttery Chardonnay. On the other hand, Pinot Grigio from the Friuli and other parts of northern Italy is a different animal altogether, with crispness, fresh fruit aromas and flavors that mark it as stellar stuff.

Different again is Pinot Gris. Although the same grape as Pinot Grigio, it tends to be fermented in oak (new or used) and comes across richer and rounder. Strangely, however, wines labeled "Pinot Gris," required in Oregon when the grape is grown there, don't sell as well as wines labeled "Pinot Grigio." Figure that one out, and let me know.

Sauvignon Blanc has swung into full bloom as a Chardonnay alternative, as consumers come to appreciate especially its harmony with fish and shellfish. Look for this grape from Sancerre and Puilly-Fume in the Loire Valley of France, from Australia and New Zealand, from South Africa, and South America, and you'll find a wide variety of flavors and characters.

Looking to other parts of the planet yields numerous rewards in the hunt for good white wine alternatives. Among Spanish white wines, Viura is the white wine grape of Rioja, while Albarino from northwestern Spain is nearly ubiquitous, although still unfamiliar to many consumers. Italy is awash in lovely white wines that are made to taste good with food, and that often, to be honest, don't taste nearly as good when savored solo. But put them with food, and they acquire a whole new character.

And then there's Germany's Riesling, perhaps the most misunderstood of all white wine grapes, yet the one most flexible with food. Consumers assume all Riesling is sweet, but that's not always the case, and dry Riesling is catching fire. (Still, the sweet ones are marvelous, and should not be denigrated).

Why the turn of favor against Chardonnay? The short answer is that, when made in the big, oaky, buttery style, it just doesn't go well with food. Some people may enjoy this wine as a cocktail, but with food, it can be severely disappointing.

Chardonnay in a medium-plus-toast barrel is Chardonnay ruined to my taste. And it's often put through what is called malolactic fermentation, which tempers acidity. That's fine if you have a wine that's on an acid trip. But if there's not a lot of acid in the wine to start with, and it's undergone "malo," as the industry likes to call it, you get that excess butteriness that coats the palate and doesn't let you taste another thing along with that wine. Wine as ego, I call it.

To pair with food, wine needs acidity, minerals and good fruit, all in balance. And Chardonnay that comes at your palate like a pot of melted butter served over timber isn't going to go well with anything.

Consumers are turning away from that sort of wine, and instead are seeking out more balanced wines. I remember a student in a beginning class many years ago. I had presented Chardonnay with no oak; little oak and oaked beyond recognition. Her response was classic: "For the first time," she said, "I understand why I don't like Chardonnay." And here all along she thought it was her fault. She just wasn't, she thought, "sophisticated" enough to appreciate this wood water she was being forced to drink.

Now she knows better. I'm certain she has gained the confidence to stick to her guns and listen to her very wise palate--is that a mixed metaphor?--oh well. You get the point.

Here is a selection--a mere beginning--that will start you on an exploration of white wines besides Chardonnay. Don't overchill them, an unfortunate American habit. Instead, serve them just a notch under cool room temperature, about 50-55 degrees, which is cellar temperature. Perfect. Most will show best in a tulip-shaped glass with not too big a bowl.

Another service note about white wines generally: Don't hesitate to decant white wines, including especially Chardonnay. (Ah, there goes another shibboleth!) All these wines, especially the more aromatic ones, benefit from being exposed to air, so decant them and watch them bloom.

Jane Garvey

Food Pairings: Exotic and assertive seasonings: poached chicken with garlic mayonnaise, Chinese food [egg foo yung, peanut chicken, crab Rangoon (very nice)], grilled garlic shrimp; shrimp or scallops with remoulade or bacon-grilled with mustard mayonnaise, yucca croquetas with avocado (from Pura Vida)--superior!, empanadas, paella.

Price: $9
Wholesaler: Ultimate Distributors

Where to Get: At Colors of Wine; Corner Wine & Art, Windward Beverage

Food Pairings: Mild curried chicken salad; South African "pan" dishes, a combination of shellfish, calamari, prawns and yellow rice (Famous Fish Co., Peachtree City); chicken pot pie, seafood or chicken-filled crкpes; sundry vegetable dishes (squash casserole, stuffed baked Vidalia onion, macaroni and cheese, cannellini beans), grilled or baked salmon; crab, crawfish or salmon cakes; spinach ravioli with chicken and Thai seasonings; satay

Price: $9
Wholesaler: Quality Wine & Spirits

Food Pairings: Amazing with Thai (not too spicy) and other Asian flavors; chicken or pork satay; spinach pasta with Thai chicken, coconut milk, ginger and peanut sauce (Saba, near Emory); all manner of cold Asian-flavored noodle dishes; pud Thai; subtle curries. Also oysters with lemon, simple grilled shrimp or scallops, wild striped bass in chipotle lime marinade; grilled chicken sausages with Thai flavors; goat cheese. Skip salmon and other oily fish (UGH!!!). No crawfish either.

Price: $14
Wholesaler: Quality Wine & Spirits

Food Pairings: The shellfish wine: Soft-shell crab; garlic, parsley and white wine steamed clams, thus also linguine with white clam sauce; crab-stuffed mild fish; crab cakes; oysters (fried, raw, roasted), Basque-style cod in herb butter; cheese-stuffed pasta with lemon, herbed butter sauce; pasta with butter and fresh herbs; baked striped bass with lime chopotle marinade (Whole Foods)

Price: $23
Wholesaler: Vinifera Distributing

Price: $18
Wholesaler: Ultimate Distributors

Food Pairings: A full meal wine, from appetizers to main dishes (but not dessert). Asian fare: dim sum; beef or tuna tataki; pork tonkatsu; tempura; mild curries; deep-fried whole catfish with ponzu dipping sauce; fairly spicy Thai dishes. German fare: chicken with whole grain mustard and cream sauce; fish cooked in beer, served with a mustard bechamel. Roast turkey; grilled scallops with remoulade sauce.

Price: $19
Wholesaler: Continental Beverage