December 21st, 2006 Special Wine for Holiday Dinners

At holiday times, we want to bring out the best china and silver, the best food we can muster, and the best wines. When it comes to wines, all of us have some measure of budgetary restraints, yet we want to serve wines that are worthy of the occasion.

Most of the time, we plan the menus first, then figure out the wines, exactly the opposite of what we should do. So let's assume that for a holiday event, we want a sparkling wine for perhaps a brunch or as an introduction to the meal, followed by a white wine for one course or perhaps even throughout the meal, and a red wine as the centerpiece. The white wines listed below could do part of the main attraction dinner, if one wanted an opening course. Or think of them for Christmas Eve, when fish dishes are traditional.

While the typical holiday table is less complex than at Thanksgiving, it still is inclined to resemble the groaning board. For sanity's sake, and to make foods do better with wine, keep the offerings simple rather than trying to re-create a Victorian feast. Prime rib or rack of lamb tend to replace turkey, although some families still go for feathered fare. Roast duck is a perennial favorite around ours. With uncomplicated preparations, one can enjoy showcasing a substantial wine and let it be the star attraction.

For dessert, cool weather tempts us to Port, a choice that will stand up to most desserts planned for Christmas dinner. The best way to enjoy Port, however, may be after the meal with nuts, dried figs and Stilton cheese.

The choices below will make a dream holiday dinner. We hope you invite us!!!

Jane Garvey

Food Pairings: Great holiday brunch wine: eggs Benedict; shrimp and scallops in garlic cream on grits; corn (or other) bisque; spicy crawfish salad; curried chicken dishes, such as Country Captain and curried chicken salad; liver pâté; seafood mousses; delicately smoked salmon. Aperitif for Christmas or New Year’s dinner: taramosalata; marinated artichokes; crab cakes; lightly salted potato chips and French onion dip; pistachios; triple cream cheeses

Price: $22
Wholesaler: Empire Distributing

Food Pairings: Great food wine: Smoked salmon mousse; white asparagus hot with melted butter or cold with garlic mayonnaise; marinated artichokes (surprise!); grilled garlic shrimp with Rémoulade; grilled bacon- or pancetta-wrapped scallops with (or without) honey mustard mayonnaise; shrimp, scallops and grits with garlic cream sauce; veal ravioli or gnocchi with butter and fresh herbs; roast turkey breast (even cold with homemade mayonnaise); mild triple cream and firm aged cheeses.

Price: $19
Wholesaler: Empire Distributing

Food Pairings: A full meal deal, but prefers delicate flavors: Seafood (shrimp or crab) mousse; crab cakes; Lowcountry shrimp and grits with garlic cream sauce; white asparagus with (or without) homemade mayonnaise; butternut squash- or pumpkin-filled ravioli with unsalted butter and minced Italian parsley and chives; grilled chicken apple sausage; poached or baked salmon; roasted turkey breast; lightly curried chicken or turkey salad; ripe brie de Meaux

Price: $22
Wholesaler: National Distributing Co.

Food Pairings: Smoked liverwurst (Patak); peppered liver pâté; rilletes of pork or duck; roast duck; rack of lamb; rib roast of beef; furred game; creamy blue cheeses, such as Cambozola, dark chocolate with cherry or other black fruits

Price: $21
Wholesaler: Empire Distributing

Ferrari-Carano Trésor 2002
Alexander Valley, CA

Score: 91 Points

Tasting Notes: Full-bodied dry red wine; deep purple red. Aromas launch with fresh ripe dark berry fruit, especially black currant (cassis), plum, and black raspberry; then acquire a singularly vinous character, with hints of juniper berry. Flavors, embraced by soft tannins, capture the same dark fruit characters. Lively, luscious fruit, with a clean, snappy finish. A blend of all Bordeaux varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon; Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Franc. Mostly new French oak. Serve at cool room temperature, about 60 degrees, in large, tall tulip-shaped glasses.

Food Pairings: Rilletes of duck or pork; peppered liver pвtй; prime rib; rack of lamb; beef or lamb steak; lamb chops; Stilton cheese; dark chocolate with cherry.

Price: $50
Wholesaler: Georgia Crown

Taylor's 20-Year Tawny (NV)
Oporto, Portugal

Score: 93 Points

Tasting Notes: Medium-bodied sweet red wine; translucent medium amber-edged ruby color. Aromas of caramel, toffee, burnt sugar, with flavors that capture what the aromas promise, with suggestions of crиme brыlйe, toffee and dark aromatic spices (cinnamon; allspice; nutmeg). Rich, but with a crisp, clean finish. The traditional grapes: Touriga Nacional; Touriga Francesa; Tinta Roriz; Tinta Cгo; Tinta Barroca. Hefty alcohol: (20%), so serve small portions at cool temperature, about 60 degrees, in small tulip-shaped glasses.

Food Pairings: Milk chocolate with almonds or hazelnuts; crиme brûlée, fruit cake, pound cake, steamed puddings; panettone, stolen; fruit cake, panettone, pound cake, fig almond cake, Stilton cheese with walnuts, dried fruits

Price: $47
Wholesaler: National Distributing Co.