December 14th, 2006 Monterey, California Wines

When you think of California, what images come to mind? The spectacular views of the Pacific Ocean that greet the eye as you noodle up and down its coast? Perhaps splendid beaches that curve along the ocean's waves? Fog-caressed mornings? Spectacular sunsets?

If you seek all of that in one spellbinding spot, head to Monterey County. There you'll find famous Big Sur, with its dramatic ocean views. Steep valley slopes. Splendid beaches. It's a world completely tied to the ocean. Amazingly, Chinese fishermen in flimsy junks sailed from their homelands to this coast to fish its rich waters in the 19th century. What may well be the world's most inspiring aquarium is the Monterey Aquarium.

The same components of climate make Monterey a destination for wine enthusiasts as well. The mixture of sun, fog, soil and slope have provided an ideal blend of ingredients necessary to craft this unique wine country. Cool zones provide the right spots for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, but you'll also find outstanding Zinfandel and Rhône varieties. The cooling effect of Monterey Bay is one of the major features that enhance grape quality by slowing ripening. Soils are cooler in Monterey than in many other parts of California, another feature that slows ripening, allowing for the production of intensely flavored fruit.

Photos Courtesy of Jane Garvey

Some 40,000 acres of now-vanished vines were planted by missionaries around 200 years ago. But that viticulture vanished, and reemerged in the 1960s, when Professor A.J. Winkler at U.C. Davis did his famous climate classification. Declaring Monterey County as Region I and II put it right up there with the main wine-growing regions of both California and France.

Among the pioneers were famous names, such as Wente, Mirassou, Paul Masson, J. Lohr and Chalone, leading a charge that today has reclaimed those 40,000, and added another 5,000 to that original stock. Today, Monterey, lying south of San Francisco, is one of the largest premium wine grape growing regions in California, home to some 75 vintners, large and small. Within the county lie seven American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) that have been identified as truly one-of-a-kind wine-growing districts: Monterey, Santa Lucia Highlands, Arroyo Seco, San Luca, Hames Valley, Chalone, and Carmel Valley.

But Monterey Bay operates its influences northward as well. Rising up from Monterey Bay toward Half Moon Bay on its upper end lie the Santa Cruz Mountains, a separate AVA. Wineries based in Santa Cruz Mountains, such as Bargetto, often produce wines from Monterey fruit, including its Sauvignon Blanc and Gewürztraminer. Santa Cruz-based Thomas Fogarty, with 325 acres, also finds its Gewürztraminer in Monterey.

By basing out of Monterey, a visitor can easily explore both north and south of Monterey Bay, cruising along U.S. 101, the California backbone highway, and sample the best of these two worlds--Monterey and Santa Cruz Mountains-- along the way. Just be sure to schedule a stop at the Monterey Aquarium, without which no trip to this part of California could not possibly be complete.

Jane Garvey

Food Pairings: Ideal with Asian foods: spicy California rolls; curried chicken salad; Thai curry coconut green lip mussels; calamari or mussels with black bean; chicken teriyaki; Indian food (if not too hot).. Also dishes with whole-grain mustard (such as pork steak with creamy whole grain mustard sauce); grilled sausages; coq au vin made with Gewürztraminer instead of red wine; German fish, chicken or pork dishes

Price: $12
Wholesaler: Empire Distributing

Food Pairings: Relatively food friendly for a California Chardonnay: marinated artichokes (a surprise); herbed garlic Boursin (on pasta or cocktail potatoes); grilled chicken apple sausage; pecan-crusted fresh cod (or similar mild fish) and French-style tartar sauce; veal scaloppini al limone; chicken pot pie (really good!); Thai coconut chicken (if not too hot) and similar Thai seafood dishes; maybe paella

Price: $30
Wholesaler: Quality Wine & Spirits

Food Pairings: Assorted pâtés; rilletes; cured meats; grilled steak; roast duck; braised oxtails or short ribs; stews; grilled or roasted veggies; aged cheeses, such as aged Manchego or Zamorano; high-cocoa dark chocolate

Price: $26
Wholesaler: Empire Distributing

Food Pairings: Likes saltiness and richness: duck or pork rilletes; salami and other cured meats; firm, aged Zamorano or Manchego cheese. Also liver pвtй; smoked liverwurst; roast chicken or duck, grilled quail or Cornish game hen; grilled lamb (not as good with beef); creamy blue cheese (such as Cambozola); fruit-filled dark chocolate

Price: $20
Wholesaler: Grape Expectations

Pessagno Central Avenue Vineyard Pinot Noir 2004
Monterey

Score: 92 Points

Tasting Notes: Medium-bodied dry red wine; medium (translucent) ruby red. Initial shy aromas open quickly; supplying dried herb-influenced dark fruit aromas; very Burgundian. Dried herb-kissed dark fruit flavors, with suggestions of dried fruits in the finish. Very easy tannins. Lovely texture, with substantial mid palateddds. Pretty high alcohol (14.6%) but it doesn’t show in the finish. Well balanced. Serve moderately cool, about 60 degrees, in large tulip-shaped Burgundy glasses.

Food Pairings: Pâtésand terrines; pork or duck rilletes; roasted rabbit or chicken with garlic and roasted potatoes; grilled salmon or tuna; beef stroganoff or boeuf Bourgignon with noodles; Parmesan potato cakes with roasted pork tenderloin; roast chicken or duck; Portobello mushrooms stuffed with mild sausage, bread crumbs and herbs, chocolate-powder-dusted chocolate truffles

Price: $19
Wholesaler: Savannah Distributing

Joullian “Sias Cuvée” Zinfandel 2003
Carmel Valley

Score: 91 Points

Tasting Notes: Full-bodied dry red wine; deep purple red. Impressive, intense aromas of blackberries/blackberry jam with hints of vanilla, flavors focused on blackberry and spice, chocolate notes, some dried dark fruits. Spicy! Classic Zin. Alcohol (14.8%) initially seems in step, but grows more prominent as wine opens. Grapes: A field blend, Zinfandel and many Rhône varieties, planted hillside in 1984. Serve cool, about 60 degrees, to temper alcohol.

Food Pairings: Smoked liverwurst and other smoked meats; pork or duck rilletes; terrine of duck or rabbit; peppered dishes (steak; tuna; pâté); salamis, sausages, cured meats; baked ham; roast pork loin; grilled lamb chop or steak; Mexican meat dishes; black-eyed pea salad.

Price: $20
Wholesaler: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC