August 17th, 2006 Wines of Washington State

Retailers and others tell me that wines from Washington State are a tough sell, a state of affairs I simply cannot comprehend. The state would seem to be a wine stepchild region, after California and Oregon. When some writers (not this one) dissed the 1998 vintage in California, retailers said the negativity spread to Washington State as well. I remain dumbfounded.

Wine grape growing is not a newcomer to Washington State, although the surge in winery development certainly is today's news. The year of the first wine grape planting was 1825, only a year before the death of Thomas Jefferson, who longed to see wine production in the new country. His backing of the Lewis & Clark expedition two decades earlier certainly paved the way for the Hudson Bay Company's planting of vines at Ft. Vancouver in 1825.

Puget Sound nurseries began receiving hybrid varieties as early as 1854, and Walla Walla Valley was growing grapes by 1860. The usual influences were at work, as French, German and Italian immigrants fostered wine production.

Prohibition's suffocation was lifted, and the first post-Prohibition bonded winery in the state, and perhaps also in the Northwest, was St. Charles Winery, founded on Stretch Island in Puget Sound in 1933. While it is no longer in business, the vineyards remain among the oldest in the state. By 1938, there were 42 wineries in the state.

Modern Washington State winemaking took off in the 1960s, propelled by the encouragement of the great Andre Tchelistcheff, perhaps legitimately seen as the godfather of modern American winemaking. Tchelistcheff had a major role in Chateau Ste. Michelle's development. The other major winery of that era was Columbia Winery. Both still are major players in Washington State's wine industry.

But beginning in the 1970s, small wineries began to rise, perhaps propelled by the rise in home winemaking that ensured from Prohibition. In any event, the pace picked up so that today a new winery launches in Washington State every 15 days. Today, there are some 30,000 acres of wine grapes in the state, up from just 11,000 acres in 1993. More than 400 wineries and some 350 growers have a firm claim on Washington State as a producer of premium wines.

The Washington Wine Commission, established in 1987, formed the Washington Wine Quality Alliance (WWQA) in 1998 to set up industry standards in winemaking and labeling, including, for the first time in America, setting standards for that pesky term "reserve" wines.

Economically, wine grape growing is very important to Washington State, coming in number four behind those apples we've all grown to love. Wine adds $3 billion to the state's economy, and provides some 14,000 jobs. The tourism aspect of the wine industry attracts around two million visitors annually to the state, generating lodging and dining impacts. The second largest wine producer in the U.S., Washington State is hardly what you'd call a bit player in the world of American wine.
What grapes do well here? Among whites, Chardonnay comes in outstanding, and many winemakers are careful with their oak programs, so you'll actually find Chardonnay wines that will go with food (see reviews). Riesling is a very important grape here, and Viognier is catching on.

Among reds, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah are stellar. And Washington State flat out produces fabulous Merlot. If Miles (from the film Sideways) had visited the state, he would have found the wonderful Merlots from Leonetti Cellars in Walla Walla Valley. Those wines are such a cult among the cognoscenti that to obtain them, a prospective purchaser must be on the winery's very carefully guarded list. The winery opens just one weekend a year--the first full weekend in May--but again only to the members on the list. Happily, Leonetti is in the process of applying for the special Georgia shipping license, so next year, getting on that list could mean good things for fans of what some have called America's best Merlot. Priced at $60, the 2004 vintage certainly isn't cheap, but with so many enthusiasts chasing not quite 3000 cases, it's a wonder the price isn't higher. Note: Even if you're not on the 'Leonetti List," should you find yourself in the area on the first full weekend in May, you'll find many other wineries open to visitors that same weekend, which is locally known as "Leonetti Weekend."

In addition, a grape known mostly in Germany as Lemberger (NOT the cheese!) and in Austrria Blaufränkisch is has more than a few dévotés in Washington State. Müller-Thurgau, a white wine grape of German origin, also is well established in the Puget Sound AVA.

What makes Washington State such prime turf for wine grape growing? Most of its 400 vineyards and wineries lie east of the Cascade Mountains, where they find the right soils, dry climate (only about five inches of precipitation annually), and warm days followed by cool nights.

What grapes work up there? Well, if you want Chardonnay, get the one listed in this line-up. I can't think of a more food-friendly wine than Woodward Canyon; one colleague still tells friends how amazed she was when I plunked down my hard-earned writers' money for two bottles of its single vineyard Chardonnay at $35 each. And that was a couple of years ago. I NEVER buy Chardonnay. But I think Woodward Canyon is one of America's best Chardonnay producers, and I find many Chardonnays to like throughout the state.

The Rhône grapes do well here, both Syrah and Viognier. When Dr. Ernst Loosen from Germany went searching for a partner with which to do Riesling, he paired up with Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville. The result, the Eroica, is among America's best Rieslings. The Italian varietals grow along the Columbia Valley. Cabernet Sauvignon acquires sweet ripe fruit cassis flavors here. The Dunham Cabernet Sauvignon (Grapefields. $43) is hard to beat. For Syrah, check Cayuse when you're in the state next. And Washington State definitely is Merlot country. This Merlot even pairs well with that big thumb-thick asparagus the state produces every spring.

Where do these grapes grow? Washington State has nine AVAs or appellations, beginning historically with Yakima Valley, established in 1983, and continuing to Wahluke Slope and Rattlesnake Hills, both established just this year.

The selections below represent a mere glimpse of this richly varied wine region. If you haven't explored these flavors, you're in for a treat.

Jane Garvey

Food Pairings: Shrimp ceviche (citrus juices), grilled scallops with Rémoulade sauce, smoked salmon/spinach mousse; spicy Thai shrimp salad with lemongrass (asesome!), shrimp/crab/red pepper mousse; zucchini stuffed with herbed feta cheese; goat cheese; brie; white pizza with caramelized onions and ham

Price: $12
Wholesaler: Grapefields

Food Pairings: Asian-inspired fare: creamy, spicy Thai shrimp salad with lemongrass; cous cous salad with dates and chick peas; garlic shrimp; turkey breast; chicken with lemon and olives; Thai-style salad with papaya (or green papaya), tomato, green beans and peanuts, creamy, soft strong cheeses, such as Andante Dairy's Picolo (California), although even Cheddar was nice. Also honey-drizzled pears with cinnamon quickly broiled for a few minutes.

Price: $14
Wholesaler: Metro Premium Wines

Food Pairings: Loves food: Mascarpone-stuffed zucchini blossoms, fried; butternut squash ravioli with brown butter; lobster/shrimp mousse; white asparagus with butter (not great but not surprisingly decent); garlic-infused roasted chicken breast; Caesar salad; turkey breast; goat cheese

Price: $35
Wholesaler: Grape Expectations

Food Pairings: Smoked liverwurst (Patak brand); peppered liver pâté; roast duck or dark meat chicken; grilled or braised red meats; legume dishes, firm aged cheeses (Manchego, Parmigiano Reggiano, aged Gouda); raspberry-infused chocolate

Price: $21
Wholesaler: Wine Maverick

L'Ecole No. 41 Seven Hills Merlot 2002
Walla Walla Valley

Score: 91 Points

Tasting Notes: Full-bodied dry red wine; deep purple red. Aromas of raspberries, flavors run through the dark berries and add a touch of cocoa to the blueberry/blackberry flavors. Elegant, with soft tannins, good acidity, and plenty of staying power. Continued to taste over two days, and wine remained in good condition, suggesting good keeping potential. Grapes: 78% Merlot; 16% Cabernet Sauvignon; 6% Cabernet Franc. French and American oak. For immediate serving, decant a couple of hours ahead of serving at cool room temperature in large-bowled Bordeaux glasses.

Food Pairings: Rich foods: Pâtés and terrines; grilled lamb; braised pork chop with caramelized onion; roast duck, roast pork loin brushed with dark fruit glaze; grilled Cornish hen; squab, firm aged cheeses, raspberry-filled chocolate

Price: $36
Wholesaler: Atlanta Wholesale Wine / NDC

Food Pairings: Smoked liverwurst, grilled lamb chop, roast duck, braised pork chop with caramelized onion, braised short ribs, game, prime rib; firm aged cheeses, goat cheese, dark chocolate (but not too bitter)

Price: $75
Wholesaler: United Distributors