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August 10th, 2006
Taste of Germany
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Just back from Germany--yes
being there during World Cup was exciting if also somewhat
complicating as room prices went through the proverbial roof--so
I'm eager to cover this region’s wines. Sure, I did my share
of that great beer, especially because it was soooo hot everywhere.
But I also explored wines and visited a cooperative in Saxony,
discovered thanks to a cousin who had always said I needed
to get familiar with Meissen wines.
Former East Germany was never known for its wine production,
but now is playing catch-up. Despite having fallen behind,
Saxony (or Sächsen in German) established the first wine training
institute in the early 19th century. Saxon wines are tough
to find today even in the western part of the country, but
from tasting them for the first time three years ago to today,
I see great improvements and advances in everything from quality
of the wines to packaging and presentation. I brought home
selected examples, including a trocken sekt (meaning dry sparkling)
and a wine made from a grape called Domina, a crossing of
Portugieser and Spätburgunder. This one was even news
to my cousin, who had wanted to buy one at the cooperative,
but the vintage was out. I surprised him with a bottle from
another supplier, and snared one for myself at the same time.
We'll see what it's like soon as the weather gets cold enough
to warrant a making a dish that will pair well.
Most of Germany's wine-growing occurs in the southwest, along
the rivers Ahr, the confluence of the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer rivers,
the Neckar, and of course along the Rhine, an 820-mile long
stretch of water that was an important trade route throughout
history. In Saxony, the River Elbe defines the growing area,
while just west of it Saale-Unstrut straddles those two rivers.
In the past few years, retailers report increased sales of
Riesling from all over the planet. The grape is closely identified
with Germany, as well as neighboring Alsace, now a part of
France, but with intermittent exceptions part of Germany until
World War I. Consumers often assume Riesling is sweet, but
as the song says, "it ain't necessarily so." Riesling
can make a very dry wine or an absolute elixir of a sweet
wine.
Look for Rieslings marked "trocken" if you're interested
in the dry ones. The trick, though, is to find one that's
balanced as far as acidity is concerned, as often the trocken
Rieslings have very high acidity. Visiting Germany, Thomas
Jefferson remarked that one had to wait 50 years to be able
to drink a Mosel as the acidity was so high. Thankfully, such
patience no longer is required.
Other grape types are grown in Germany, including even the
popular Chardonnay. But look for Silvaner, the workhorse white
grape of Franken (Franconia) wines, Grauburgunder (Pinot Grigio)
and Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc). Red grapes are chiefly Spätburgunder
(a/k/a Pinot Noir), Dornfelder, and Lemberger, the latter
also known as Blaufränkisch in Austria and grown a fair
bit in Washington State.
Below is a sampling of German wines available in Atlanta,
some stretching perhaps the limits of readers' experience
with German wines. I've had many an argument--incredibly even
with the occasional German or two--that Germany does indeed
produce red wines. Have a look, and explore the subject further,
unfettered by any negative notions.
Jane Garvey
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Kloster Eberbach
Steinberger Riesling Kabinett '02
Rheingau
Score: 90 Points
Tasting Notes: Medium-bodied
off-dry white wine; medium pale straw. Aromas of fresh fruit,
a trace of mandarin orange peel, with juicy crisp pear flavors.
A crisp, long, palate-refreshing finish Perfect balance, with
integration of fruit and acidity. Elegant and supremely food-friendly.
Just 9% alc. The Rheingau lies on the east bank of the Rhine
between Weissbaden and Lorchhausen, which is the boundary of
the Mittelrhein. Some vineyards also are near Hockheim, source
of the word "hock," a generic term used mostly in
England to to denote Rhine wines. Chilled for about 20 minutes,
to about 55 degrees, and served in tall tulip-shaped glasses.
Food Pairings: Wide variety:
creamy Thai shrimp salad with lemongrass; fried calamari with
spicy aïoli; fried catfish or shrimp with caper-studded tartar
sauce or rémoulade; grilled bacon-wrapped giant scallops
with honey-mustard mayonnaise; cold Chinese noodles with peanut
sauce; bok choy salad with sesame oil, ginger and soy sauce
dressing, creamy mild curried chicken with raisins; lemon/olive
chicken
Price: $18
Wholesaler: Northeast Wholesale
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Hans Wirsching
Silvaner 2004
Franconia (a/k/a Franken)
Score: 90 Points
Tasting Notes: Light- to medium-bodied
dry white wine; medium straw. Some what shy pear fruit aromas;
classic steely fruit (pear) flavors. Persistent, steeling, mineral-rich
long finish, with a hint of lemon and minerals emerging in the
finish and a touch of dried herb. Bracing, clean. Moderate alcohol
(12%). Very good example of the genre. Not in the traditional
Bocksbeutel (a flat-sided, short-necked, round bottle--perfect
for saddlebags). Also in screwcap closure--breaking lots of
rules. Chilled, about 55 degrees, in tall tulip-shaped glasses.
Food Pairings: Light, uncomplicated
fare, perhaps best as an aperitif wine: Smoked salmon terrine;
grilled scallops with tartar sauce; cod, catfish, tilapia
or halibut fillet lightly floured and sautéed; goat
cheese; fried shrimp or calamari with aïoli, cocktail sandwiches
with white meats
Price: $14
Wholesaler: Prestige Wine Wholesale |
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Weingut Braun
Grauburgunder 2004
Pfalz
Score: 89 Points
Tasting Notes: Medium-bodied
dry white wine; medium pale yellow. Aromas of white peach, pear,
with flavors to match. Classic flavors with good acidity, fruit
and finish--balanced. The peach/apple character draws a bead
on the finish right from the aromas. Adds another dimension
to understanding this grape: a/k/a Pinot Grigio; Pinot Gris,
and Ruländer, which tends to denote a sweeter style than
Grauburgunder. The Pfalz extends south of the Rheinhessen pointing
a finger along the Rhine River toward Alsace.
Food Pairings: Assertive and
exotic flavors: mildly seasoned Indian-style dishes; lentil
salad with orange segments; chicken salad with mango chutney
and red pepper; ham salad; not spicy hot Thai-style shrimp
with lemongrass; mild Thai curries with coconut milk, butterkåse
(butter cheese); roast pork pr baled chicken with Vidalia
onion/peach salsa
Price: $13
Wholesaler: Continental Beverage
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Grantschen
Lemberger Qualitätswein 2001
Württemberg
Score: 90 Points
Tasting Notes: Light-bodied dry
red wine; medium cherry red. Lively aromas of dried dark fruits,
with surprisingly(given its weight) robust red fruit flavors,
both fresh and dried. Touch of currants, cranberry. Nice acidity.
Easy tannins. Grape: Lemberger, a/k/a Blaufränkisch in Austria.
Also widely grown in Washington State (e.g., Kiona). Modest
alcohol: 12%. Good at room temperature, but perhaps better a
little cooler, in a Burgundy-type glass. Nice value Fairly large,
Württemberg runs along the Neckar River between Stuttgart
and Heilbronn. Steep terraced vine-laden slops sweet up from
the river.
Food Pairings: Lots of foods:
Smoked liverwurst; pâté, grilled bratwurst; salamis
and sausages; black olives; rabbit or chicken hunter style
(chasseur); roast duck; grilled salmon or tuna, grilled veal
chop stuffed with prosciutto or other ham; grilled lamb chop;
duck; roast pork with mustard cream sauce; chicken with caramelized
onions, roast chicken, grilled or roasted vegetables; mushrooms.
Price: $13
Wholesaler: Continental Beverage |
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N. Ponsart
Spätburgunder Qualitätswein Trocken 04
Ahr
Score: 89 Points
Tasting Notes: Medium-bodied
dry red wine; `medium dark cherry red. Warm earthy aromas,
truffle, followed by dark cherry flavors with touches of aromatic
brown spice. Chewy texture, with good acidity through the
finish. Fruit/acid well integrated. Easy tannins. A bit of
alcohol heat, although oak and fruit are in good balance..
Grape: Spätburgunder (a/k/a Pinot Noir). Dry Spätburgunder
from the Ahr is hard to find/ this is a good one. The Ahr
is a small region named for a river that flows into the Rhine.
Serve at cool room temperature to temper the alcohol a bit;
use Burgundy glasses.
Food Pairings: Rich foods:
Smoked liverwurst; pâté; roast duck; lamb; prime
rib; Delmonico or rib steak; medium-weight veal or lamb stews;
braised short ribs; roast pork stuffed with prunes; coq au
vin; braised beef; roast pork; mild aged cheeses
Price: $29
Wholesaler: Northeast Wholesale
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Rudolph Müller
Riesling Eiswein 2004
Rheinhessen
Score: 89 Points
Tasting Notes: Medium-bodied
sweet white wine; medium gold. Aromas of fresh apricots, with
flavors that merge apricot, ginger, flavors pick up apricot,
nectar, and peach. Good acidity keeps the wine from becoming
cloying, and ensures a good, long finish. Sweet but not overpowering.
Moderate alcohol: 8%. Grapes for Eisewein are picked and pressed
while solidly frozen; freezing concentrates the sugars. The
Rheinhessen is a large wine region that lies between the Rheingau
and the Pfalz along the western side of the Rhine River. Serve
moderately chilled, in tall tulip-shaped glasses.
Food Pairings: Sautéed
pears with creamy bleu cheese, such as German Cambozola, slightly
melted on the side; or the bleu cheese by itself with a fresh
pear, lemon custard bars, almond apple tarts, apple strrudel,
crème brûlée, pound cake, simple cookie--or nothing
at all but the wine itself.
Price: $20/375ml
Wholesaler: National Distributing Co.
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