| |
| |
Complimentary
Subscription
Wine review email sent weekly.
|
|
August 3rd, 2006
Wine for Salads
|
 |
Classical French thinking
on the subject of pairing wine with salads is simple: Don't
do it. No question, the best use for a simply dressed green
salad is to let it act as a palate cleanser between rich courses.
The acidity refreshes the palate, and prepares us for the
next course and the next wine.
But salad doesn't stop there. Granted, the business of wine
with a dressing that contains vinegar can be daunting, and
salads have many other forms and fashions. In this heat, nothing
beats a chilled Riesling with a classic Thai or Vietnamese
green papaya mango apple salad with crushed peanuts scattered
on top (see last week's
column). These salads have no oil, so their calorie content
is minimal, and fat is scarce--just a bit in the peanuts.
They're refreshing and nutritious. What more could one want?
But other salads merit consideration in this yucky weather
as well, for their lightness and refreshing flavors that seem
to do combat with this sticky heat. Some may be dressed with
cream or mayonnaise dressings. Still others can be made with
just citrus juices and aromatic seasonings, and perhaps a
dab of highly flavored oil such as peanut or sesame.
One is warned away from wine with salad because of the acidity
issues. To get around this potential clash, make sure the
dressing isn't more acidic than the wine. And introduce a
bit of protein into the salad, whether grilled salmon or chicken,
cheese, or meat. Choose vinegars that aren't terribly high
in acidity, such as rice vinegar, or use citrus juices. Composed
salads are the easiest to pair with wine, but the acidity
issues remain.
In addition to choosing wines with good acidity, make sure
the alcohol levels aren't excessive, and tannins should be
soft in the red wines. Also, this is not the best moment to
showcase one of your highly prized old vintages. A younger
wine will do better than an older wine.
One of my favorite salad-cum-wine experiences took place at
the Los Olivos Café, seen in the wine-devoted film,
Sideways. The curried chicken salad was a perfectly poached
breast of chicken sliced and laid across a bed of greens,
then topped with a slight tracing of lightly curried mayonnaise.
With this I ordered the Claiborne & Churchill Dry Gewürztraminer
(San Luis Obispo). Awesome doesn't even come close to describing
the perfection of this pairing, but then Gewürztraminer
and curry is a no-brainer.
Pairing wine with salad is not impossible, but it does require
a bit of thought and advance planning. See what you think
of these pairings, and then try some of your own.
Jane Garvey
|
|
|
Rietvallei
Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Robertson, South Africa
Score: 91 Points
Tasting Notes: Medium-bodied
dry white wine; medium pale straw. Aromas of stone, flint, chalk,
and green fruits; fig frames the flavors on the palate. Complxx,
with good acidity, just a notch of residual sugar Not a trace
of the asparagus/bell pepper profile characterizing most South
African Sauvignon Blanc. Trellised vines were established from
1980 to 2000. Grapes were picked in two stages of ripeness,
from a very low 16 degrees brix, which emphasizes the herbaceousness
and acidity, and 23 degrees brix, for ripe fruit and body. Stainless
steel all the way. Great value. Chlled, about 55 degrees, after
giving it time to open. Food Pairings:
Goat cheese salad; tarragon chicken salad with almonds, Chinese
noodles with slivered almonds and soy dressing; chicken salad
with soy/ginger/sesame dressing; chilled sautéed or poached
sacallops with very light tomato/basil dressing (try Vidalia
Onion Brothers); chicken Caesar salad, shrimp ceviche with
citrus juices on greens
Price: $12
Wholesaler: Big Boat Wine Company
|
|
|
Chumeia Silver
Nectar 2005
Argentina
Score: 90 Points
Tasting Notes: Medium-bodied
off-dry white wine; medium golden straw. Exotic floral aromas,
with yellow stone fruits, especially apricot, while the palate
features juicy yellow fruits--apricot again--and lychee nut.
Acidity is brisk, 61, leaving the palate refreshed and clean.
Residual sugar is 2.5%, handy for dishes with exotic flavors
and probably not sweet enough for desserts. Hand harvested,
whole cluster pressed and fermented at cool temperatures. Produced
in Argentina and imported into the U.S. Chumeia Vineyards is
located in Paso Robles, CA. Grapes: 76% Torrontés; 24%
Chenin Blanc. Moderately chilled, about 55 degrees. Food
Pairings: Exotic flavors, such as cumin, lemongrass,
spice with a little bit of heat, excellent with cardamom.
Mexican jícama salad with cucumber and orange, lime juice
and cumin; cous cous salad with dates, chick peas, cardamom
and almonds; Thai shrimp salad with lemongrass; Indian-style
potato/banan/mango salad with lime juice/cumin/peanut oil
dressing; curried chicken salad, grilled chicken salad with
avocado vinaigrette, chicken salad with mango chutney and
red peppers
Price: $11
Wholesaler: Continental Beverage |
|
|
Folonari
Pink Pinot Grigio 2005
The Veneto, Italy
Score: 87 Points
Tasting Notes: Medium-bodied
off-dry rosé; medium copper. Aromas of strawberry with a hint
of aromatic brown spice; flavors are uncomplicated, with an
emphasis on strawberry and peach. Easy alcohol (11.5%) with
some acidity and a refreshing finish. Stainless steel. Connoisseurs
may feel funny letting their fellow cons catch them drinking
this, but fact is, it's perfect for this heat and light meals.
Pinot Grigio skins hold color, and the wine can acquire a coppery
tint by simply leaving the juice in contact with the skins..
Chilled, about 55 degrees.
Food Pairings: Salads with
creamy dressings and some spice: Thai shrimp salad with lemongrass
and spice; Mexican grilled chicken salad with salsa dressing;
ham salad (really good); chicken salad with mango chutney
and red pepper (also really good); grilled salmon salad on
greens with citrus vinaigrette; spicy Cajun-style crawfish
salad; lentil salad with orange segments; chicken salad with
avocado vinaigrette; vegetable (carrot and bok choy for instance)
salads with light soy/sesame dressing
Price: $8
Wholesaler: National Distributing Co.
|
|
|
Earl Patrice
Magni, Les Grandes Vignes du Roy Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2004
Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône Valley, France
Score: 91 Points
Tasting Notes: Full-bodied dry
white wine; medium golden straw. Delicate scent of star anise,
with flavors that suggest melon, pear and a touch of pineapple.
Minerality lifts the flavors to another level. Complex, with
a silky texture and a long, finish packed with delicious fruit.
Classic style. Grapes: Roussanne (40%); Marsanne (40%); Grenache
Blanc and old vine Clairette (20%) on clay, chalk and gravel.
Opens a bit dull then blooms, so open about 30 minutes to an
hour before serving or decant. Not too cold, about 60 degrees.
Food Pairings: Surprising
pairings: Granny Smith apple and fennel salad, with a mild
vinegar/oil dressing; grilled salmon with cucumber dill dressing
on greens; sautéed pistachio-crusted goat cheese on greens
with mild vinaigrette; chicken Caesar salad; tarragon chicken
salad with almonds; shrimp with creamy lemon whole-grain mustard
dressing on greens
Price: $31
Wholesaler: Grape Expectations |
|
|
Bodegas
Tintoralba Higueruela (Garnacha) 2005
Almansa, Spain
Score: 90 Points
Tasting Notes: Full-bodied
dry red wine; deep purple red. Aromas of plum and blueberry,
leading to plum/blueberry flavors that linger through a fruit-driven
finish, with a hint of cherry brandy and spice. Soft tannins;
supple texture. Very concenetrated. All parts well integrated.
Old vines. No oak. Grape: Garnacha (Grenache). Stunning value.
Not a long-term keeper. Cool room temperature, about 65 degrees.
Food Pairings: Steak salad
with bleu cheese dressing (smashing!); bean (legumes) salad
with mild vinaigrette; grilled sausage salad with whole-grain
mustard vionaigrette; duck breast on greens with fig-infused
balsamic vinaigrette; grilled lamb on greens with red wine
vinaigrette; pasta salad with smoked mozzarella, herbs and
garlic
Price: $10
Wholesaler: United Distributors
|
|
|
Mommesin
Côte de Brouiilly "Le Mongtagne Bleu" 03
Côte de Brouilly (Beaujolais), France
Score: 90 Points
Tasting Notes: Medium-bodied
dry red wine; medium purple red. Aromas of dried dark and red
fruits, hint of raisin and apricot. Flavor of raisins, but not
"raisin-y," Juicy, concentrated, exuberant fruit,
with nice acidity and a long finish. Lingering finish. Easy
tannins. Grape type: Gamay noir. Côte de.66662 Brouilly is a
Cru Beaujolais, all of which are separate appellations. It sits
higher up the slopes of Mont Brouilly. Wines from Côte de Brouilly
last longer than Brouilly, a separate appellation. Cool, about
65 degrees.
Food Pairings: Salad of grilled
sausages with whole-grain mustard, red wine vinaigrette and
red onions; grilled lamb on greens with red wine vinaigrette;
duck and fresh figs and red onion on greens with fig-infused
white balsamic vinegar vinaigrette; chicken and sesame/soy/ginger
dressing on greens; pasta salad with smoked mozzarella, fresh
herbs and plenty of garlic
Price: $19
Wholesaler: Northeast Wholesale
|
|
|
|
