Jane's
Monthly Dozen: Al Fresco Wines
by Jane Garvey
Heat
factors are becoming more tolerable outdoors, leaving us able
to enjoy our patios and other outdoor living circumstances without
having to mop our brows. The insect population is getting reduced
as summer recedes into fall, and our opportunities for being
outdoors without getting chomped at the elbows and ankles increase.
In casual circumstances, we want wines that don't cost us a
king's ransom but that still deliver plenty of flavor. We find
this the perfect time to enjoy lighter-bodied white wines (forget
those butter-oak Chardonnays), like roses, and lighter red wines.
The sample of white wines below is just a starter set. I would
add to the collection wines made from Gruner Veltliner, a grape
from Austria; Godello and Albarino, two grapes from northwestern
Spain; Verdejo, from Rueda, Spain; Soave (made chiefly from
Grarganega), Italy; Verdelho, from Australia; Sauvignon Gris,
one of the sleeper grapes from Chile (look for Casa Silva and
Cousino Macul); Torrontes, from Argentina (but preferably those
from Mendoza rather than Salta, which I find too flowery and
overwhelming); plus the well-known Pinot Gris and its cousin
Pinot Grigio (although from Trentino Alto-Adige, preferably)
and Pinot Blanc. Slightly spritzy Moscato d'Asti is lovely with
poached, chilled fruits. All these are able to support the lighter
foods of summer.
Roses--especially the dry ones--are ideal for this time of year,
not only because of the weather but because of the foods they
ably accompany. I like roses so much I'll happily drink them
in a blizzard if I wish to so long as they go with the foods
I'm serving. Sparkling brut rose is especially pleasant at this
time of year with summer foods, and remains my favored form
of sparkling wine at any time of the year.
Do you steer clear of red wines when it's warm outside? Don't
do that. Enjoy them. But give them a bit of a cooling down to
say cellar temperature, or about 55-60F/13-15C. I oppose chilled
glasses for any beverage, whether wine or beer, as this nefarious
practice tends to kill the flavors. But I'll do it if there's
no other way to get a glass of red wine at a proper temperature
in a restaurant. People are still surprised when I recommend
cooling red wines, but doing so enhances the fruit and tempers
any alcoholic heat. Serve that red wine too warm, and all you
get is enhanced alcohol.
Look
for a nice Lambrusco, moderately chilled, to enjoy with your
next batch of fried or barbecued chicken, and tell me that's
not a stellar experience. Just put your wine snob cap on a hook
in the closet, and you'll actually have FUN with this wine.
Look for Ca' de' Medici (Quality, $11).
Pick
up a good Beaujolais--especially a Cru Beaujolais--and cool
it down before you have your next barbecue, and you'll find
a new pairing that will delight and surprise you. Grilled chicken;
grilled flank steak; grilled sausages--a whole plethora of summer
foods--will do well with a proper Beaujolais. Unfortunately,
Atlantans don't do much with Beaujolais, made from the Gamay
grape, and the wine deserves more respect than it gets.
Bardolino, made from Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara, is lighter
than its cousin Valpolicalla, mostly because it typically includes
more Rondinella than the heavier-bodied Corvina. Both the red
wines and the rosato (rose'), called Chairetto, are great for
summer sipping.
Classic Southern barbecue will do nicely with a wide assortment
of red wines, including these choices. I love it with St. Chinian,
which is Syrah-based, but that's getting hard to find. Choose
wines that show soft tannins and ample fruit to embrace the
assertive flavors of barbecue and the accompanying sauces. And
go for lower alcohol levels in this heat--Riesling always is
a good choice for this reason--so you don't find yourself prone
by the side of the pool at the end of the party.
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