- The
Big Wine Seduction (taken from a column of writer Dan Berger)
"I have stated my desire for better structure in wines
for more than a decade, and I see little happening to encourage
me. A few Pollyannas have written to me saying, hey, cheer
up!, winemakers are lightening up on the alcohol, on the oak,
on the tannins, and they are making a more balanced wine,
and they are seeking better harmony." Read
on
- Speaker
Busts Vineyard Myths
At the recent American Society for Enology and Viticulture
conference fruit dropping (otherwise known as Green Harvesting),
along with canopy management procedures like vertical shoot
positioning, and deficit irrigation are all discussed and
debated as to their true effectiveness. More
- Hi-Tech
Genelogy Work Targets Pinot Noir
Researchers from France and Italy found 13 genes that are
responsible for the Pinot noir wine's distinctive flavors,
according to a study released yesterday by the journal Nature.
Turning them on and off may give vintners the ability to add
and subtract key characteristics from their products. More
- Wine
Sales Up 7% in June, 2007
As
summer hit full swing, wine sales continued to rise in The
Nielsen Company-tracked supermarket channel. In the 13 weeks
ending June 30, 2007, overall wine sales rose by 7 percent
and case volume sales gained 4 percent. In imports, leader
Australia took second to Italy, and in varietals, Chardonnay
continues to dominate. More
- Brand
Image Built on-premise, and Volume off-premise
U.S. restaurants are most likely to feature California wines
that sell for less than $39 a bottle, according to a new report.
Topping the list are Beringer, owned by Foster's Group Ltd.
, Kendall-Jackson, and Constellation Brands Inc.'s Robert
Mondavi. More
- Seeking
Napa-Valley-like Experiences Close to Home
People who may never travel to California or New York's Finger
Lakes are touring vineyards and doing tastings at wineries
in Wisconsin and other seemingly unlikely states. More
- Why
Warren Winiarski sold Stag’s Leap: “I wasn’t going to live
forever.”
Faced with his own mortality and the fact that none of his
three children wanted to take over the winery, Warren Winiarski,
who will be 79 in October, had little qualms about selling
his iconic winery. More
Jane's
Monthly Dozen: Wine Adventures
by Jane Garvey I
am, I confess, cursed with a taste for adventure, even if it
means I get myself lost (a frequent event), drink the occasional
bad wine (mercifully, not so frequent an event), and generally
make a fool of myself trying such things as rowing a canoe along
a lily-pad-lined Okefenokee water trail. I should probably stick
to urban adventures, but I don't.
Getting outside the box is essential to making life worth living.
And that goes for wine as much as it does other matters. Folks
often ask me about Napa Valley as if going there summed up all
that California has to say about wine. Of course, one should
know Napa Valley, but it accounts for only 4% of California's
wine production. There's so much more to see and taste.
Nor is California the only state worth discussing when it comes
to viticulture in this country. Oregon and Washington State
follow in close pursuit in terms of wine production, and to
my mind, and palate, the latter produces America's best Chardonnay
and Merlot. On the East Coast, New York's Finger Lakes and Long
Island produce excellent wines, and Virginia is fast closing
in on its 100th winery. Held twice a year, in June and August,
Vintage Virginia near historic Winchester is a good opportunity
to sample what the state is doing in viticulture. And the next
time you ramble through North Carolina, see what the folks at
Raffaldini
are doing. The Vermentino is especially worthy, and would probably
fool the folks back in Sardinia.
Marlborough, on New Zealand's South Island, doesn't sum up that
country's viticulture either. Wine growing occurs on both the
North and South islands, with one of the hottest trends being
Pinot Noir in Central Otago on the South Island. Spain isn't
just about Rioja; indeed Don Quijote's La Mancha is the country's
largest wine-growing area. France isn't locked up in Bordeaux
and Burgundy. And Stellenbosch doesn't sum up all that South
Africa has to say about wine, either, although the town, a vibrant
historic university-centered metropolis, and its surrounding
land are amazing pieces of the planet Earth. But outside of
Stellenbosch lie other zones that we wine lovers need to explore.
So if you're locked into a wine habit of any sort, break the
chains and get out of your skin to try something you've not
experienced before. Resolve to deal yourself a new wine deck.
If you don't like it, hey, you can always go back to your old
habits. Today, wines are coming into Atlanta from all over the
planet. They're expressing not only a wide variety of flavors
and grape types, but also reflecting our interest in remote
and difficult-to-reach parts of the globe. Through wine, you
can go there without leaving your easy chair. Sort of. Have
at it! Here are some suggestions.
Bodega Familia Schroeder Deseado 2006
Patagonia, Argentina
|
Rating:
88 |
Medium-bodied
sweet white sparkling wine; very pale yellow. Aromatic with
touches of orange blossoms and other floral characters; flavors
pick up orange zest and a suggestion of cardamom. Exotic, sweet
but refreshing, very long finish. Sweet but balanced. Persistent
bead. Grape type: Torrontes, Argentina's icon white wine grape.
Patagonia is quickly opening up as a region for cool wine grapes,
especially Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. But Torrontes does well,
too. Charmat method, like Prosecco. Serve chilled, about 45-50
degrees, in tulip-shaped sparkling wine flutes.
Outstanding
with Asian fare that has a sweet-and-sour aspect to it, Chinese
honey barbecue ribs; honey-glazed chicken, sesame chicken. With
creamy desserts, custards, panna cotta with crushed fresh fruit;
fruit tart with mascarpone cheese; zuppa inglese; trifle
New World
Wines
$17
Alan
McCorkindale Riesling 2004
Waipara, New Zealand
|
Rating:
91 |
Medium-bodied
slightly sweet white wine; medium straw. Intense aromas showcase
the classic diesel-y characters often associated with Riesling.
Citrus peel and oils grace the aromas as well, especially tangerine
and kumquat. A luscious mouthful of ripe fruits comes forth,
with pear, melon and peach all playing melodies. Clean, brisk
acidity leaves the palate refreshed. Delightful food wine. Serve
moderately chilled, about 55 degrees, in tulip-shaped white-wine
glasses. Home to intense Rieslings as well as other fine white
wines, Waipara is located on the South Island in the so-called
Alpine Pacific Triangle along the island's east coast. Perhaps
40 mi. north of Christchurch. If whale watching is on your list
of must-dos, you'll find it handy on the nearby Kaikoura Coast.
Crab
and red pepper mousse; myriad Asian-influenced seafood, noodle
and chicken dishes; chicken salad with mango, grilled chicken
apple sausages, braised veal steak or pork steaks with caramelized
onions and whole-grain mustard; grilled shrimp with mango salsa;
beer-poached mild white fish (halibut or sea bass) with mustard-influenced
Bechamel sauce, coq au Riesling (coq au vin made with Riesling)
Unique World
Wines
$22
Royal
Tokaji Furmint 2005
Hungary
|
Rating:
94 |
Medium-bodied
dry white wine; Aromas of freshly cut hay, ripe apples, with
flavors that capture ripe apples, yellow stone fruits, some
lemon and rich minerals. Complex. Brisk but well-integrated
acidity (essential if the wine is to go with food or last).
Intense but balanced. A real pleasing sipper, also good with
food. Grape type: Furmint, a yellowish green Hungarian grape,
is the main ingredient of sweet Tokaji Aszu. No oak. Serve chilled,
about 50-55 degrees, in tulip-shaped white wine glasses.
All manner
of Asian fare, shrimp fritters with a fruited dipping sauce;
egg rolls; crab Rangoon (wonton wrappers stuffed with cream
cheese and crab); egg foo yung; peanut chicken. Caribbean fare
that's not too hot, such as coconut shrimp with mango or bitter
orange dipping sauce or chutney. Fried chicken strips with honey
mustard, lentil salad with orange and onion. Skip the oysters,
though.
National
Distributing Company
$16
Standing Stone Vineyards Gewurztraminer 2006
Finger Lakes, New York
|
Rating:
90 |
Medium/full-bodied
very slightly off-dry (just .6 RS) white wine; pale straw. Classic
Gewurztraminer floral (rose petal) aromas, with spice on spice--exotic
and aromatic--notes. Flavor focus on lichee nut and pear. Restrained
exuberance, superbly balanced; Alsace style, elegant and refined.
Good acidity. Serve in tulip-shaped white wine glasses, at about
55 degrees. Located on Seneca Lake, Standing Stone has made
Gewurztraminer its own since first planting it in 1994. Named
for their long, narrow shapes, these lakes were pre-glacial
streams; as later glacial ice retreated, it deposited material
that dammed up valleys and entrapped water. The Finger Lakes
moderate temperatures for the surrounding vineyards. Seneca
and Cayuga are the two deepest, with bottoms actually below
sea level. We also tasted a 1997 Pinnacle, the winery's blended
red wine, still in good shape.
Soft-shell
crabs lightly dusted in curry powder scented flour and sautéed
in butter (a superb pairing!), any lightly curried dish; roast
turkey; grilled apple chicken sausages with caramelized onions
and whole-grain mustard; grilled pork steaks with sauteed apples
and onions; assertive creamy cheeses (French Munster from Alsace)
Sommelier
Direct
$19
Eventide
Cellar Viognier 2006
Wellington, South Africa
|
Rating:
89 |
Medium-bodied
dry white wine; medium pale yellow. Floral and white peach aromas
are characteristic of the grape. Luscious white peach flavors
keep up a virtual dance on the palate, abetted by good acidity,
and provide a long, clean, dry finish. The finish closes with
a slight butter note (not unpleasant, however!), perhaps suggesting
grapefruit zest. Serve moderately chilled, about 50 degrees,
in tulp-shaped white wine glasses. Agricultural with an emphasis
on fruit growing, Wellington is slightly north of Paarl, itself
just slightly north of Stellenbosch
Chicken
salad with mango or other yellow stone fruits; Chinese shrimp
fritters; coconut shrimp with mango or bitter orange dipping
sauce; light curries with seafood or chicken, grilled chicken
apple sausage with caramelized onions, fried chicken with honey
mustard dipping sauce, sotly smoked chicken, seafood or chicken
with exotic but not aggressive spices (not hot ones).
Atlanta
Wholesale Wine/NDC
$15
Chateau
de Lancyre Rose 2006
Pic Saint Loup, Coteaux du Languedoc, France
|
Rating:
93 |
Medium-bodied
dry rose wine; lovely rose-pink color. Spicy, cinnamon hearts
aromas; flavors knit brown spices, red fruits and glide easily
into a long, crisp, dry finish. Mouthwatering. Lovely balance.
Grapes: 60% Grenache; 40% Syrah. Methodology: saignee. Serve
at about 50 degrees, or moderately cool, in tall, medium-sized
tulip-shaped glasses, such as the Riedel rose glass. Surrounding
the eponymous mountain peak, Pic Saint Loup embraces 12 communes
north of Montpellier, where there is a fine school of enology.
Rosette
de Lyon or other cured spicy sausage; grilled shrimp with remoulade
sauce; tomato stuffed with shrimp or crab salad; well-spiced
smoked chicken; smoked pulled pork with spicy tomato-based barbecue
sauce; deep fried calamari or other seafood with sweet tomato
dipping sauce; sandwiches (also po' boys, tortas, gyros, wraps);
tacos; Chinese honey barbecue ribs. And that ain't all. It's
a long list.
Empire Distributors
$18
Bodegas
Castaño Monastrell Rosado 2006
Yecla, Spain
|
Rating:
89 |
Medim-bodied
dry rose wine; medium pink-toned light red. Aromas capture a
wide assortment of red fruits, from watermelon to strawberry
and raspberry, with brown spice notes for accent. Delicious
red fruit flavors with good acidity propel the flavors to a
broad mid-palate experience and a clean, crisp, long, fruit-rich
finish. Moderately chilled, about 55 degrees, in tall tulip-shaped
glasses. Yecla is located in the province of Murcia, east of
Madrid and west of Cartagena, which is on the Mediterranean.
Lots of golf resorts there. Grape type: Monastrell, a/k/a (in
France) Mourvedre and (in California) Mataro, is the main red
wine grape type in this region and in adjoining Jumilla and
nearby Bullas. Very fine value.
Buttermilk-fried
chicken fingers with honey mustard dipping sauce (splendid!),
smoked liverwurst; grilled wild salmon steak; ham salad, croquetas
or grilled ham steak; grilled chicken apple sausages with spicy
mustard; grilled pimento cheese sandwiches; croque Monsueir
or Madame (grilled ham and cheese sandwiches); honey-glazed
Chinese barbecued pork, paella
Quality
Wine & Spirits
$12
Oberbergen
Pinot Noir Select Estate Bottled 2005
Baden-Baden, Germany
|
Rating:
88 |
Medium-bodied
dry red wine; medium, translucent cherry red. Aromas of sweet
and sour red cherries, cherry flavors mold the palate, which
is full and lingering. Length is amazing, in fact. Flavors are
straightforward, not complicated, and consistent with Pinot
Noir. Tannins are elegant, and alcohol is a reasonable 13.5%.
Serve at a cool temperature, about 65 degrees, in round Burgundy
glasses. Pinot Noir is the grape of Germany's Spatburgunder.
Baden is in southwest Germany, and nearly one-quarter of its
vineyards are planted to Pinot Noir.
Pâtés
and terrines; rilled duck breast with reduced red wine/blackberry
vinegar sauce; sauteed chicken livers with country ham or speck
and Madeira; roast pork tenderloin; mushroom ravioli with butter
and cracked black pepper; roast chicken; feathered game; Cornish
hen (roasted or grilled); pheasant
Bibb
Distributing Co.
$24
Merricks
Creek "Close Planted" Pinot Noir 2003
Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia
|
Rating:
95 |
Medium-bodied
dry red wine; medium translucent cherry. Intense varietal aromas
tilt more to savory than to fleshy fruit, with a lovely earthy/animal
notes. The nose knows instantly what the palate is in for! While
there are plenty of stuff to the fruit profile, the savory character
(no cherry fruit bomb this) and easy fruit tannins providing
structure make it of the best Pinot Noirs I've seen in a long
time. Very Burgundian, and I don't toss that around loosely.
Outrageous good value, too, for the genre. Do not miss this
one. Serve at cool room temperature, about 65 degrees, and get
out the good glasses. The Mornington Peninsula is a glorious
piece of landscape jutting out into the bay south of Melbourne.
With its cool climate, it's perfect for this grape. Merricks
Creek only does Pinot Noir. As the Aussies would say: It's a
great "drop."
Pates
and terrines, mushroom ragoût or mushroom-filled ravioli with
butter and cheese; chicken livers sauteed with country ham and
Madeira; roast chicken, duck or Cornish game hen; feathered
or furred game; boeuf Bourgignone; Peging duck or grilled duck
breast with dark fruit glaze; grilled or roast lamb; mixed legume
dishes; creamy mild blue cheeses
Big Boat
Wine Co.
$35
Printhie
Shiraz/Viognier 2005
Orange, Australia
|
Rating:
89 |
Medium-bodied
dry red wine; medium deep cherry red. Aromas of currents mingled
with white pepper notes mark the fragrance, which virtually
leaps out of the glass. Deep berry flavors, with more white
pepper accents, compose the palate. Lingering fruit finish comes
up with a little heat, (despite reasonable alcohol at 13.3%)
but rich foods ease that sensation, and this one loves to be
with food. Silky texture and juicy tannins. Grape types are
two Rhone varieties: Shiraz and Viognier. Blending a bit of
Viognier (5%) into the Shiraz to lighten it and lift its aromas
is a classic. technique. Serve moderately cool (also helps temper
the alcohol) in large tulip-shaped glasses. Excellent value.
Cool-climate, high-altitude Orange les west and slightly north
of Sydney. Viticulture is on the slopes of Mount Canobolas,
an extinct volcano, which has produced rich basalt-based soils.
.
Roast pork loin; roast duck, Peking duck, or grilled duck breast
with black currant vinegar/red wine reduction sauce; roast lamb;
steak with blue cheese sauce; Chinese pepper steak; beef tataki,
braised short ribs; grilled veal rib chopped stuffed with prosciutto
and Fontina cheese, very dark chocolate.
Grape Expectations
$16
Malibu
Family Wines "Semler" Syrah 2004
Saddle Rock, Malibu, California
|
Rating:
89 |
Big, powerful,
full-bodied dry red wine; deep dark purple red. Deep, concentrated,
compelling aromas focused on dark fruits with gentle white pepper
notes. A big mouthful of ripe dark fruits with firm but fruit-defined
tannins. Rich and complex. Definitely a guy wine. Finish shows
a little heat, but fruit is so zesty, you won't care. Designated
in 2006, Saddle Rock-Malibu AVA lies north of Los Angeles, and
holds some 2,100 acres. Serve in large tulip-shaped glasses
at cool room temperature, about 65 degrees.
Rich
pates and terrines; rich, full-bodied meat stews; braised garlic-studded
short ribs of beef cooked in Syrah, roast duck; leg of lamb
with garlic and parsley, buffalo and other furred game; firm,
steak with peppercorn cognac sauce or blue cheese sauce; aged
cheeses, dark chocolate. Would love to try with mole poblano.
Georgia
Crown
$20
Lincoln
Ice Wine Semillon 2004
Gisborne, New Zealand
|
Rating:
92 |
Full-bodied
sweet white wine; deep reddish gold. Aromas of dried and sweet
peaches and apricots, with delectable sweet fruit flavors enhanced
by honey and passion fruit characters. Touch of citrus. Unctuous
texture. Acidity breaks the sweet grip on the palate, and provides
a clean finish. 2004 was a good vintage for Gisborne, located
on the East Coast of the North Island. Grape type: Semillon
(70%). Alcohol is just 11%. Residual sugar is 13% Will drink
well in its youth, cellar a few bottles to watch it evolve over
the next 10 years. Serve in small tulip-shaped glasses, such
as a Port glass, at very cool room temperatures, about 55 degrees.
Angel food
or pound cake with fresh fruits; panna cotta with crushed fresh
fruits; pear or other fruit tart with a Mascarpone cheese base;
creamy custards and creamy custard-based pies; zabaglione, zuppa
inglese or trifle (or any of its variants);
Bibb Distributing
Co.
$24/375 ml. bottle |