Jane's
Monthly Dozen: A World of Reds
by Jane Garvey
Red wines go
way beyond single varietal wines made from Cabernet Sauvignon,
Pinot Noir or Merlot, the most popular grape types for red wine.
There are tons of other varieties. Moreover, excellent wines
are made from blends of red grapes. The term "meritage,"
a coined word, denotes red wines made from the Bordeaux varieties,
namely Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot
and Malbec. These are the grapes that Bordeaux uses to make
its red wines.
But many winemakers operating in other regions prefer to use
such terms as "claret" to denote a Bordeaux blend
because only those who are members of the Meritage organization
and pay the fee to use the term may do so legally. Winemakers
who choose another path come up with a proprietary terms to
denote a red blend. One of my favorites is Spice Route’s Chakalaka
(about $40), from South Africa, currently available to readers
in Alabama, South Carolina and Tennessee.
Red wine grapes can do everything that white wine grapes can
do. They may be made still or sparkling. They may be made dry,
slightly off-dry or very sweet. They can even make a white wine
if no juice/skin contact is allowed; this is a blanc de noirs
(white from black). They may be light on the palate or heavy
and chewy. They may go with chicken or fish or with meat, depending
on the dish, and certainly with game, especially the heavier
ones.
They may turn up in fortified wines that go beyond the traditional
Portuguese varieties to include Shiraz, Petit Sirah, or even
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Georgia’s Habersham Vineyard
does a dessert Chambourcin, a French-American hybrid grape,
that’s terrific with chocolate. They may be crossed to compose
a new variety; e.g., Pinotage a crossing of Pinot Noir and Cinsault.
For some wine lovers, red wines only mean big, bold, tannic,
high-alcohol wines that challenge the palate. Such wines are
difficult to pair with food, however, and quickly fatigue the
palate. People who prefer these wines often don’t care for Pinot
Noir, which is more feminine and delicate, and typically, at
least, doesn’t come in at high alcohol levels (except some from
California). One man commented at his first taste of Pinot Noir:
"A little watery, isn’t it?" No. That’s not watery.
That’s finesse. Elegance.
Perhaps no country has a wider variety of red wine grapes than
Italy—unless it's Greece. Sangiovese probably is the most well
known for its role in Chianti and in Brunello di Montalcino.
Then there are the Super Tuscans, made from classic Bordeaux
varieties blended with Sangiovese. These can age a bit. I just
enjoyed a 1990 Tignanello, and while it was clearly evolved,
it still delivered a lot of pleasure.
Serve red wines at cool temperatures, about 60-65F/15-17C at
all times, and if it’s hot out there, even cooler. Cellar temperature,
about 55F/13C, is the proper storage temperature for all wines,
and lighter red wines taste very good at this temperature. Serving
red wines cool will diminish any sense of alcohol and advance
the fruit on the palate. Decant them if they’re young and need
time to open, and if they've thrown off a lot of sediment so
you can separate that from the wine. When decanting older wines,
wait to do so until the last minute so they don’t get too much
air and fall apart before you sit down to dinner. They’re apt
to be fragile. Stand wines to be decanted for sediment upright
for a day or so in advance of serving to allow the sediment
to fall to the bottom of the bottle.
Clean-up tip: Ever trot off to bed leaving the remains of your
red wine in your glass, only to find it stained in the morning?
Sprinkle the glass with fine baking soda from the shaker container
and use a soft wine glass cleaning tool (Wine Enthusiast markets
one) to swish it around in the glass. The baking soda absorbs
the wine without leaving behind any off-odors. And of course
always use a scent-free detergent to wash your glasses.
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