Jane's
Monthly Dozen: Thanksgiving Wines
by Jane Garvey
Thanksgiving
brings an abundance of foods to the table, from sweet to sour
and from rich to richer, all to be enjoyed at the same time
just as if it were on a classic Victorian table. Our table even
has a dish of kimchee, which, incidentally, is great with turkey.
(No, we're not Korean, but the reason is a very long story.)
If you are of Italian heritage, your meal may well start with
a lasagna that could be graced with crushed toasted chestnuts.
Anything goes when it comes to individualizing Thanksgiving
or making your family's particular ethnic heritage part of the
affair. The feast and the company are what matter, so don't
stress over the wines. Provide wines that will appeal to a broad
palate profile.
Turkey--or some fowl--typically is the mainstay, of course.
Turkey--as well as chicken and pork--benefits greatly from being
brined before being roasted as it just explodes with juices.
(Hint: Be careful not to salt the surface again before roasting,
however.) Deep-fried Cajun turkey may be the best way to cook
this bird, as the meat is juicy and flavorful at the end. But
it's still a good idea to brine it before immersing it completely
in the oil.
Stuffing (cooked within the bird) and dressing (cooked in a
pan) may well be the most important element in deciding what
wine to serve. Steer clear of white wines if your stuffing or
dressing has sage in it. Include dried fruits in stuffing for
duck to enhance the flavor of the meat. The Romans used to feed
figs to ducks before slaughtering them to influence the flavor
of the meat, and they were surely on to something. Cook duck
with figs and you'll get the idea.
For small parties, cook a boneless rolled breast of turkey stuffed
with prosciutto or Serrano ham and Fontina cheese, or lay a
bone-in breast that you've brined over a pan of dressing so
it can influence the flavor of the stuffing. It's sort of like
roasting a whole bird stuffed but this way you don't have leftovers
ad infinitum. Split Cornish hens down then back and grill them
over wood, brushing on melted dark fruit jam thinned with red
wine just at the last. Go for a red wine if you do this. Or
stuff them with a crabmeat stuffing and pair that with a Viognier.
Goose is more for Christmas, but if you do one, include dried
fruits or apple in the stuffing. Make sure the wine with this
has good acidity to cut through the richness of the goose. Its
specific color would depend on the stuffing. With apple, do
a Riesling Spatlese or Auslese. IF your goose is stuffed with
a sausage dressing, get a full-bodied red wine. For the duck,
stuff it with a raisin bread stuffing or one with chopped dried
figs and go for a full-bodied Italian red wine.
And if you do have leftovers, consider wine with those fine
meals, too. Curried turkey on rice or curried turkey salad deserves
a good Gewürztraminer.
And for the dessert, often overwhelmingly sweet, consider a
fortified wine, especially if the dessert has dried fruits in
it. Grandma's lemon pie may taste great with a late-harvest
Sauvignon Blanc. Anything with pumpkin will do nicely with a
late-harvest Gewurztraminer. Pecan pie and an Oloroso or Cream
sherry make a splendid pairing. They'll also go nicely with
firm, aged cheeses. Add some walnuts and Porto would get my
attention with those cheeses.
But if you're not in an adventurous mood and will have your
turkey stuffed with old-fashioned plain bread and celery stuffing--and
that IS delicious--also consider a Pinot Gris (not Grigio, however)
or Pinot Blanc with your turkey. Chardonnay, especially the
oaky versions, won't do well with the meat's gamey character.
Whatever the meal, enjoy the wines. Make them good ones, without
breaking the bank. The choices below range from the inexpensive
to the special celebration pricing, so there's something for
most pocketbooks and tastes.
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