Jane's
Monthly Dozen: Wines for Thanksgiving
by Jane Garvey
Thanksgiving
brings welcome relief from hot weather, and a chance to gather
with friends and family and savor some fine food and wine. It’s
a casual repast, typically, and not one that requires making
fusses over wines to go with a meal that’s likely to have wine-challenging
foods on the table. Top it all off with a nip of brandy at the
end of the event, and you’ll have everybody dozing for hours
in front of the games.
We always have
kim chee to mark the time our brother has spent in Korea, and
now that we have a new member of the family who hails from India,
we include such dishes as mango chutney and raita. All of which
go well with turkey, but may make wine pairing challenging.
If you thought cranberry sauce was a tough pairing, try that
garlic-and-heat-laden kim chee. By the way, if you’re tired
of cranberry sauce, try Muscadine preserves as an alternate.
Much more wine friendly.
A few rules make pairing wines with Thanksgiving dinner a bit
easier. If serving the noble bird that Ben Franklin wanted as
the official national symbol (the turkey lost out to the eagle),
pairing the wines to the stuffing or dressing is the best approach.
Right off, leave heavily oaked Chardonnay off the list. A Burgundy
might work, though, or an unoaked Australian Chardonnay showing
a good measure of tropical fruit (Yalumba Unwooded, for instance).
But still it all depends on the dressing. If including sage
in the stuffing/dressing, it’s safest to skip the white wines
altogether. White wine and sage, especially dried sage, can
be a real mess together.
For white wines, think about Pinot Blanc, especially if the
dressing is an apple/bread/celery combination. That’s also good,
by the way, not only in the whole bird but used with a boned
turkey breast that’s rolled like a rouladen. The slight sweetness
of the apple makes a fine pairing with Pinot Blanc.
With those Indian-inspired condiments on the table—or without
them—select a dry Gewurztraminer. Perfect for turkey, Gewurztraminer
has the weight and enough floral and exotic aromas and flavors
to be downright liberating, especially with the big bird. Then,
with the leftovers, you can enjoy Gewurztraminer again if you
make a dish with curry.
Turkey, especially the free-range sort, can be quite gamey,
making the dish great with red wine. But be sure to choose something
on the light- to medium-bodied size of the weight profile. Personally,
I don’t care for the big jaw-breaking red wine with turkey,
as it will just overwhelm everything. Of course, that’s a rule
to break if you insist on having one, but you will find the
wine and the food rather combative, I fear. And the wine will
win out over the dish. Red wines are to be preferred with any
type of feathered game, including duck.
For the classic holiday desserts, pumpkin pie, choose a dessert
wine that’s based on white grapes, such as a late-harvest Gewurztraminer
to pick up on the spices. With pecan pie, try a sweet Oloroso
sherry, and for apple pie a Vin Santo. Lemon pie might be good
with a late harvest Sauvignon Blanc. Whatever you choose, remember
one rule, and it is never to be violated: Make sure the wine
is sweeter than the dessert. Err in the opposite direction,
and the dessert will make the wine taste dry and lifeless.
To enjoy the day, select a range of wines to please various
palates, and don’t let food-and-wine pairing become a stress
factor. People will savor what you pour, and conviviality will
smooth over any unintended mismatches.
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