- 13th
Annual Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition
That's right, the competition isn't about those slippery critters,
but more about whatcha chug while you slurp 'em! Your winners
are: Brassfield Estate Winery 05 Sauvignon Blanc (CA), Dry Creek
Vineyard 05 Sonoma County Fume Blanc (CA), Dry Creek Vineyard
06 Dry Chenin Blanc (CA), Geyser Peak Winery 06 Sauvignon Blanc
(CA), Hall 06 Sauvignon Blanc (CA), Kenwood Vineyards 06 Sauvignon
Blanc (CA), King Estate Winery 05 Signature Pinot Gris (OR), Martin
& Weyrich Winery 06 Unwooded Chardonnay (CA), Sweet Cheeks
Winery 06 Pinot Gris (OR), Willamette Valley Vineyards 06 Pinot
Gris (OR)
- Four-lane
Highway Planned Through Vineyards of Spain's Top Wine
Those who play at the top of the Spanish wine game are well accustomed
to Vega Sicilia and Dominio de Pingus. A 2000 Pingus is valued
at approximately $400 per bottle. For some reason, the government
would like to push a major highway right through these vineyards.
Politically motivated? More
- "C'mon
Honey, Let's Go Make Some Wine"
Kings Hill Cellars is a "members only" winery in the
Mayacamas Range between Sonoma and Napa counties that sells no
wine. Instead, it provides premium winegrapes, a state-of-the-art
winemaking and storage facility, and guidance from an expert winemaker
to individual or group members, who invest in half or full barrels
of Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Zinfandel or
Sauvignon Blanc. More
- Karen
MacNeil Wines 2007 Wine Literary Award
Having
spent a week this time last year with Ms. MacNeil, I can tell
you her pen is mighty, but she is quite potent as a speaker as
well. In winning this award, Karen joins other wine-literary-lumineries
such as Hugh Johnson, Robert M. Parker, Jr., Harry Waugh, Leon
D. Adams, Dan Berger, Jancis Robinson, Gerald Asher, Tom Stevenson,
Gene Ford, Michael Broadbent, Robert Lawrence Balzer, Andrea Robinson
and Kevin Zraly.
More
- World's
Biggest Wine Fair Takes Cues from Auto Shows
1 million square feet of wine tasting booths, housing approximately
43,000 products to smell, taste, swish and gulp or spit. But how
do you compete with the booth next to you--use more cray paper?
No, you have better looking female (or even male) models to get
customers to stop!
More
- Red
Wine Sales Effected (continually & partially) by Health Reports
This report is from 4th quarter last year, on the heals of a mice
reportedly living longer due to a red wine compound resveratrol.
More
- W.R.
Tish' Comedic Quips Often Target the Wine Spectator
Tish had me rolling with the latest (is it really true?)
claim that Wine Spectator will be using fractions now to score
wines, i.e. 90 1/2 for a nice Cabernet. Enjoy four more parodies
involving Riedel, Corks, and Trump & Rosie. Visit
the Site
- Paris
Hilton the New Face of Bordeaux Wine
OMG--we need miles of literary space to pan this one. Unfortunately,
the great classed growths will have someone as their spokesperson
who is short on class. Said by one observer to Decanter Magazine,
"What do you do if you want people to stop thinking your
wine is expensive, shallow, pointless and without taste? Clearly
the CIVB's view is to employ someone with, erm, all those qualities,
and who is famous for being famous, not for actually achieving
anything in life." More
- Exceptionally
Rare & Hard-to-Find Wines
Forbes Magazine has put together a fun (self-turning slide show)
of wines that money barely can buy. More
Jane's
Monthly Dozen: Pleasin' Pinots
by Jane Garvey All
the Pinots are in some way kin to each other, and all are mutations
of Pinot Noir. Pinot Gris (a/k/a Pinot Grigio in Italy, Grauburgunder
in Germany) is a mutation of Pinot Noir that sometimes leaves behind
a coppery color in the wine as a testament to its origins.
Pinot
Gris / Pinot Grigio
Sometimes known as Pinot Beurot in Burgundy, where it originated,
Pinot Gris was interplanted in the Pinot Noir vineyards, and was
routinely included to soften the Pinot Noir and add some acidity.
Today in France, Alsace keeps up the drumbeat for the grape. The
difference one perceives between Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio has
more to do with terroir and vinification than anything else, as
Pinot Grigio typically is fermented in stainless steel while Pinot
Gris typically will see some barrel.
Pinot
Blanc / Pinot Bianco
Pinot Blanc is a white mutation of Pinot Gris, and in years past
often was confused with Chardonnay, itself known until not too many
years ago as Pinot Chardonnay. Some Pinot Blanc is still grown in
northern Burgundy, but Chardonnay has the upper hand among white
wines in that region. In Germany it's known as Weissburgunder, and
in Italy, it's Pinot Bianco.
Pinot
Noir (daddy to them all)
Lovers of Pinot Noir and Burgundy can be somewhat one-sided about
their wine preferences. It's the red wine or bust, for many of them,
and it has to come from France,. specifically from Burgundy. But
Pinot Noir has numerous other homes, some more successful than others,
to be sure.
In France, Pinot Noir is the grape of red Sancerre, in the Loire
Valley, where it also makes rosé, and it's grown in Alsace,
believe it or not. In next month's column, we'll explore the wines
of Alsace, including a Pinot Noir.
As the large wine-growing regions of the south begin to figure out
what grapes do well in their zones, Pinot Noir finds itself a home
in parts of southern France where ocean influences and high altitudes
moderate heat, for it’s a grape that likes cooler climates.
Pinot Noir becomes Spatburgunder in Germany, and Pinot Nero in Italy.
Their respective flavors couldn't be more different, but one still
knows they're in the family. Increasing exponentially in popularity
in Germany, Pinot Noir is planted from the Ahr, Germany's northernmost
wine-growing region, to the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Baden, the Pfalz,
the Rheinhessen and the Rheingau, where 13th century Cistercian
monks gave it the same attention they gave it in Burgundy. In Italy,
Pinot Noir is grown in the north east and in Lombardy, and there
are a few Alto Adige producers giving the grape its due in those
cooler climates.
In California Carneros and Russian River Valley are highly regarded
for their Pinot Noir, and, as in Burgundy, for their Chardonnay.
But personally, I'm fonder of Monterey, Sonoma Coast and Santa Maria
Valley Pinot Noir. Coming on strong in the latter area is Pinot
Noir from Santa Rita Hills, as well. The grape also is planted in
Paso Robles, but the results don't pass muster at least with this
palate. In Paso Robles, a zone that's too warm for this grape, the
wines are heavy, lack finesse and are high in alcohol. Not fun in
my view, unless you like your Pinot Noir to behave like a Zinfandel.
Oregon is highly regarded Pinot Noir country as well, but also does
a great job with Pinot Gris..Oregon's King Estate (NDC) still grows
Chardonnay, but the white wine that finds much success in Atlanta
is their Pinot Gris, which even finds its way into two excellent
dessert wines.
Look to Chile and Argentina, and you'll find Pinot Noir being planted
in high elevations. As it's a fairly new phenomenon, the vines are
rather young. Still, some of the results are promising. In last
month's column, we published a review of the Cono Sur Pinot Noir,
a phenomenal value for just $10 (Empire). Familia Schroeder from
Patagonia has two Pinot Noirs, priced at $13 (Saurus) and $17 (Saurus
Patagonia Select), both of which are excellent additions to the
genre (New World Wines).
In general, the Southern Hemisphere is just now waking up to Pinot
Noir. Central Otago, Martinborough and Marlborough in New Zealand
are primary zones for not only Pinot Noir, but also Blanc and Gris.
In Australia, Yarra Valley is great Pinot Noir country, and produces
a wine that tends to be rather more savory than sweet. Pinot Noir
also does well in the southern growing regions of Australia, while
all the Pinots have a home in Tasmania. In South Africa, a formerly
fruit-planted zone called Elgin is finding Pinot Noir in scattered
areas, and the results are exciting if the Paul Cluver Pinot Noir
is any hint (Quality Wine & Spirits, $36), while in Walker Bay
Hamilton Russell (Empire, $35) proved the region worthy for Pinot
Noir.
Finally, don't overlook a good rosé of Pinot Noir, which
sometimes will be called a "vin gris." As the warm weather
approaches, this, along with the other pinots, will make getting
through the heat a lot more interesting.
And regarding serving temperatures and circumstances, keep temperatures
moderate on all three. Go for about 60-65 degrees on reds, and no
colder than about 55 degrees on whites, or cellar temperature. For
the red wines, a round balloon-shaped Burgundy glass is a good choice,
and that shape also is good for full-bodied Chardonnays (a/k/a Pinot
Chardonnay). For Pinot Gris and Blanc, a tulip-shaped white wine
glass is fine. For the rosé, Riedel has developed a glass
just for the genre, and I plan to acquire a couple as I adore rosé
all year long.
Italo
Cescon Pinot Grigio 2005
Grave del Friuli, Italy
|
Rating:
92 |
Medium-bodied
dry white wine; medium pale straw. Classic Pinot Grigio aromas of
yellow stone fruit and minerals, with flavors that expand that profile
and add a fleshy dimension in mid palate. Minerality lends texture
and complexity to the clean fruit flavors. Good acidity (typical
of Pinot Grigio from northern Italy). Wine seems a bit dull initially,
but opens and develops delectable fruit flavors within about 15
minutes in the glass. Be careful not to serve too cold.
Blue-cheese-stuffed
green olives, crab mousse, grilled garlic shrimp, shellfish with
mild rémoulade sauce, fish and seafood with mild Thai seasonings
(lemongrass), calamari with lemon aoli, baked crab-stuffed flounder
or other mild fish, soft-shell crabs either sauteed or fried, crab
cakes, poached or baked salmon with lemon Hollandaise or sabayon,
chicken baked with caramelized onions, roast breast of turkey
Bacco
Fine Wine
$14
Monte
Volpe Pinot Grigio 2005
Mendocino, CA
|
Rating:
90 |
Medium-bodied
dry white wine; medium straw. Aromas of peach blossom and peach,
minerals as it opens, with flavors that continue this style of PG
through to the long, tasty and crisp close. A touch of the taste
of honey joins the final flavors. This New World Pinot Grigio shares
the minerality of an Old World PG, but has more voluptuous mouth
feel, thanks partly to its being barrel fermented. "Monte Volpe"
means "Mountain of the Fox" in Italian, and owner Greg
Graziano acknowledges his heritage with a variety of Italian grape
types, including Arneis.
Crab cakes with
Hollandaise sauce, grilled scallops with honey-mustard mayonnaise;
garlic shrimp, baked or grilled mild fish, Chinese-American dishes,
such as sesame chicken or sweet-and-sour dishes, noodle dishes;
pork, seafood or chicken dishes with exotic spices (but not hot)
Continental Beverage
$15
Mosby
Pinot Grigio 2005
Santa Barbara, CA
|
Rating:
91 |
Light-medium-bodied
dry white wine; pale straw. Gentle aromas of peach, pear, apple
and minerals; well-integrated white fruit flavors with a touch of
vanilla in the close. Silky mouthfeel. Finish is dry, crisp and
elegant, with a lively citrus note in the close. Very well crafted
wine, with acidity, minerality, fruit in synch. Mosby is completely
devoted to producing wines from Italian varietals.
Crab cake Benedict
with mustard Hollandaise sauce, grilled bacon-wrapped scallops with
honey mustard sauce, cold Asian noodle dishes, chicken salad with
yellow fruits, baked mild fish with mustard Béchamel; squash-stuffed
ravioli with brown butter; chicken fettuccine, pork, chicken or
seafood dishes with mild exotic seasonings
Ultimate
Distributors
$18
Domaine
Albert Mann Pinot Blanc 2004
Alsace, France
|
Rating:
91 |
Full-bodied
dry white wine; medium golden straw. Aromas of intense pear, touch
of mango and minerals. Very sweet (fruit sweet) fleshy fruit informs
the palate, emphasizing pear, mango. Good acidity refreshes the
palate. Delightful peachiness in mid palate. Moderate alcohol: 12.5%.
Calamari
with lemon aïoli; grilled or sauteed paillard of wild salmon with
lemon Hollandaise; grilled or sautéed scallops; mild delicate smoked
white fish, roasted turkey breast; crab cakes with lemon Hollandaise,
salt-and-pepper shrimp; coq au vin blanc (made with some of this
wine); chicken pot pie
Unique
World Wines
$16
Henschke
Pinot Gris "Innes Vineyard" 2005
Littlehampton, Adelaide Hills, Australia
|
Rating:
93 |
Full-bodied
dry white wine; medium straw with a very slight coppery cast.(as
Pinot Gris can do). Aromas of white fruits with slight note of wet,
warm stone. Flavors advance distinctive richness on top of white
fruit characters. Clearly follows Alsace models, with its rich,
concentrated, intense fruit character. Complex and rewarding, with
lively ripe, exuberant, mostly stone fruit character. Fleshy texture.
Not a keeper, so drink now.
Baked, poached
or steamed wild salmon (with Hollandaise sauce); grilled bacon-wrapped
scallops with honey-mustard sauce; crab cakes; roast pork tenderloin
with pear chutney; Asian fare, especially seafood or chicken with
slightly exotic seasonings; chicken pot pie.
Empire
Distributing
$30
Etude
Estate Rosé of Pinot Noir 2005
Carneros, CA
|
Rating:
92 |
Full-bodied
dry rosé wine; medium salmon pink. All the red fruits play
in the aromas, from watermelon to strawberries to red raspberries.
Flavors reach deeply into the red and black berry characters, with
a touch of aromatic brown spice. Long, clean, crisp finish. Terrific
acidity completes the profile. Aromas and flavors develop in the
glass, about 15-20 minutes after the wine is poured. Consider decanting.
No foolin'. Barrel fermented (neutral oak) four months in used barrels.
Sooo
many dishes: vegetable quesadillas or fajitas; roast pork tenderloin;
smoked meats (chicken, pork) with medium-bodied tomato-based barbecue
sauce; Chinese barbecued steaks; Korean barbecue; sautéed or grilled
wild-caught salmon; grilled ham steak with Muscadine sauce glaze,
fried chicken
United
Distributors
$20
Heron
Pinot Noir 2005
Pays d'Oc, France
|
Rating:
88 |
Medium-bodied
dry red wine; medium deep dark cherry red. Aromas of red and dark
cherries with exuberant spice notes. The palate shows relatively
simple cherry fruit flavors true to the grape type, with good acidity
(.73), and moderate alcohol (13%). Elegant, clean, simple and pure.
Vines are relatively young, just 15 years old, and are planted in
a zone of Limoux, France, influenced by the distant Atlantic Ocean.
Very good value.
Smooth-textured
pàtes; mild salamis and other cured meats, mushroom ragoût, braised
veal with mushrooms, grilled lean pork tenderloin, Asian barbecued
beef and Chinese honey barbecued pork (especially yummy), roast
duck or Cornish game hen, chicken thighs braised with Vidalia onions,
grilled chicken breast with sun-dried tomato/caper relish, barbecued
Asian steaks, mild aged cheeses, dark chocolate
Grapefields
$13
Parri
Estate Pionot Noir 2004
Southern Fleurieu Peninsula, South Australia
|
Rating:
90 |
Light/medium-bodied
dry red wine; translucent medium dark cherry color. Aromas suggest
brown aromatic spices, dark cherry, a hint of composted earthiness.
Flavors pick up the spice factor, but don't overplay it, leaving
a savory sensation. First impression seems a bit understated, but
blooms in the glass, so be patient with it. Supple tannins. Long,
elegant, savory finish. Likely just settled on the lees, not filtered,
some sediment, but decant for formal serving (be sure to stand upright
for a day or so before decanting.) The Fleurieu Peninsula runs south
of Adelaide and thus enjoys constant maritime influences, which
cool the climate.
Creamy-liver
pate, mildly smoked light meats, smoked liverwurst, grilled salmon
or tuna, salmon sashimi, some sushi (eel rolls), light meats, braised
chicken thighs with caramelized onions, chicken or veal saltimbocca,
mushroom risotto or mushroom-stuffed ravioli, ravioli filled with
veal and sage, grilled sweetbreads, well-seasoned ground beef pie,
hangar steak with Gorgonzola cream
Bacco
Fine Wine
$22
Dr.
Pauly-Bergweiler Spatburgunder Trocken 2004
Mose-Saar-Ruwer, Germany
|
Rating:
93 |
Medium-bodied
dry red wine; bright translucent ruby red. Fine aromas of dark and
red cherries, with flavors that continue the fruit and add aromatic
brown spice to enhance complexity. A little earthiness emerges in
the finish. Very easy tannins. Good acidity. Elegant, graceful,
supple texture. A superior example of German Pinot Noir.
Smoked liverwurst,
layered ham/salami/cheese casserole, pork steaks with sautéed mushrooms
and sweet-potato-stuffed baked Vidalia onions, roast chicken, ground
beef pie with aromatic brown spice seasonings, grilled steak with
bleu cheese drizzle, roast duck, turkey or Cornish hen, mushroom
ragoût, braised chicken thighs with caramelized onions, grilled
veal chop
Quality Wine & Spirits
$30
Chalone
Vineyard Pinot Noir 2004
Chalone (Monterey County), CA
|
Rating:
91 |
Medium-bodied
dry red wine; translucent medium dark ruby red. Somewhat subdued
aromas hint at dark cherries, while elegant flavors pull up sensations
of dark cherry and a touch of raspberry followed by good fruit tannins
and a sensation of alcohol. Firm but supple tannins lend structure
and weight to the mouthfeel. A classic of the California style but
with tempered fruit, so it's not a cherry bombe.
Creamy
liver pates and mousses, sauteed foie gras, rabbit or chicken marchand
de vin sauce, coq au vin made with a good but less expensive Pinot
Noir, well-seasoned with aromatic spices ground beef pie, fairly
firm aged cheeses (but not sharp or too ripe), creamy blue cheeses,
hanger steak with bleu cheese drizzle, furred or feathered game,
roast duck. Very nice with dark chocolate.
National
Distributing
$40
Lamont
Pinot Noir 2005
Central Otago, NZ
|
Rating:
93 |
Medium-bodied
dry red wine; medium, translucent dark cherry red. Aromas typical
of a Central Otago Pinot Noir, with an emphasis on dried herbs rather
than cherry fruit. Raspberries, a touch of wild strawberry, and
cherries do, however, inform the palate. The rich fruit character
is buoyed by supple tannins and good acidity. Classy package. The
winery's 30 acres were planted in 2000, and include Pinot Gris and
Riesling. If this is the quality that they can get off these young
fines, the future holds much promise. Potential keeper 5-6 years.
Creamy,
smooth-textured liver pates (especially yummy), peppered grilled
tuna steaks, roasted or grilled pork tenderloin, roast chicken or
braised chicken with caramelized Vidalia onions, warm lamb salad,
roasted Cornish hen and duck, beef pot pie, dark chocolate
Bacco
Fine Wine
$42
Domaine Saint Gregory Pinot Meunier 2005
Mendocino, CA
|
Rating:
92 |
Medium- full-bodied
dry red wine; medium garnet red. Fruit-rich aromas grape a bowlful
of red cherries and spice, with an initial earthy note that seems
to fade as the wine opens. Dark cherry flavors are the follow-up,
again with spice notes, a hint of vanilla from toasted oak, and
a touch of intriguing bitterness at the end.. Elegant, soft tannins
and clean finished with a long fruit-filled wrap-up. Balanced and
silky textured. Another wine from Greg Graziano. Pinot Meunier is
a native of Burgundy that serves as one of the three mainstays of
Champagne. White hairs on the back of the leaf look like flour,
hence its name, which means "miller" in French.
Smooth
pates or chicken liver mousse; beef and mushroom pot pie; moussaka;
roast duck and pork loin (some dark or dried fruit-based embellishments,
sauces or chutneys would add a good dimension), roast Cornish hen
brushed with a melted dark fruit jam glaze; ground lamb casserole
with aromatic brown spices and a bechamel-tomato topping
Continental
Beverage
$16 |