Jane's
Monthly Dozen: Sparkling Wine
by Jane Garvey
In January
1981 on the night Iran released the American diplomat hostages,
I decided to open something bubbly to celebrate. My mother-in-law
wanted no part of it, but I said she just had to have some to
mark the occasion. She made a face, then dutifully put the flute
to her lips and brought the glass down to the table quickly.
I had to watch out of the corner of my eye, because I was about
to chuckle, as the glass slowly returned to her lips and then
again slowly to its spot on the table. The business repeated
twice more and then she said: "Oh, is that was it’s supposed
to taste like?"
That did me in. I couldn’t help chuckling out loud. Score another
convert, and this one was not easily convinced. What's more,
I did it NOT with a Champagne, but with a very inexpensive Loire
sparkler, albeit one made by a great house: The Bouvet Brut
from Taittinger, then priced at about $8. Taittinger also provided
her last taste of bubbles, a much appreciated sharing of the
Comtes de Champagne. Its price is markedly higher, depending
on the vintage, with the Brut Rose typically costing a bit more
than the 100% Chardonnay-based Blanc de Blancs.
Located in Reims, Taittinger is one of the premier Champagne
houses; its extraordinary cellars make a spectacular tour. They
have been closed for renovation, but are slated to re-open March
8, 2010. Be sure to carry a wrap if you plan a tour as it’s
cold down there, even in summer’s heat.
But not all that sparkles is Champagne. That term is reserved,
including in France, for those wines that come from the Champagne
region, just a short drive east of Paris. Other French bubblies
may be called "Cremant," as in "Cremant de Loire,"
de Bourgogne, d’Alsace, and so forth. Taittinger won’t use the
term "Champagne" on wines coming from its vaunted
California operation, Domaine Carneros.
"Champagne" as a term denotes also a particular method
of making sparkling wines, one in which a second fermentation
occurring in the bottle results in the sparkle we’ve all come
to love for celebrations. Other methods also create sparkling
wine, such as the "charmat" or tank method in which
the second fermentation occurs in a tank. To be sure of what
you’re getting when you purchase a bottle, see that the label
says “fermented in this bottle.” Other countries, to
protect the Champagne brand, have agreed to replace it with
terminology devised to denote the same method, specifically
"cava" in Spain, "Cap Classique" in South
Africa, and metodo tradizionale or metodo classico in Italy.
For the moment, at least, we in the English-speaking world seem
stuck with the rather dull "sparkling wine" moniker.
But although different from Champagne, other methods can craft
splendid sparkling wines. For instance, when made sparkling,
Prosecco relies on the charmat method, which means its second
fermentation occurs in a large, pressurized tank. And that's
established tradition. It also accounts for why "frizzante"
Prosecco is less expensive than Champagne, but even within the
genre, there are clear gradations in quality among producers.
Some consumers--as one told me recently--don’t like Prosecco,
but I suspect it’s because they haven’t tried a really good
one. Moreover, Prosecco isn’t the sum total of Italian sparkling
wines, as many are made in the traditional method.
Also traditional methods may be used with fruits besides classic
V. vinifera, with red grapes as well as white, and with fruits
other than grapes. Tracy Chesser of Chesser Island Winery (Gusto
Brands) near Folkston (SE Georgia), not only produces a very
tasty sparkler in the traditional manner from Muscadine grapes--as
does Lakeridge Winery in Clermont, FL--but also makes a blueberry
sparkling wine (Billy Bowlegs Blue) that tastes for all the
world like a sparkling Shiraz from Australia.
Nearly all wine-producing regions are making sparkling wine
in the traditional manner. In South America, Chile’s Valdivieso
and Saurus (from Familia Schroeder in Patagonia) produce excellent
examples of sparkling wine (both at New World Wines). Argentina’s
Trapiche, a well-known producer, does a sparkling extra brut
that sells in surrounding states but not in Georgia (Republic
National, about $14). Germany’s Riesling-based “sekt” (pronounced
"zeh-kt") and North Carolina’s Biltmore Estate “Chateau
Biltmore” sparklers, made from estate-grown fruit, exemplify
the reach of a wine style that, at its outset, was highly controversial
only 200 years ago.
While Champagne pricing has bottomed in the mid-$30 range, other
sparklers available at lower prices still provide fine quality.
As you peruse the following choices, also look at last year’s
bubbly column for some other ideas that still have validity.
The article is in our archives, located specifically here.
Resolve to enjoy sparkling wines, including Champagnes, at all
your wine occasions, not just for celebrations. Why limit oneself?
Acquire some good glasses for the purpose--and these need not
necessarily be flutes--and serve them at cool but not over chilled
temperatures. Traditionally recommended serving temperatures
of 45F/5C may well be too cold; they are for me. Recently attending
a tasting of Champagne Henri Giraud (Prime), I was delighted
when the presenter advocated a warmer serving temperature and
used a white wine glass rather than a flute for his demonstration.
(Maximilian Riedel makes flutes, but he doesn’t like them either
and moreover advocates decanting Champagne!)
I like bubbles with everything. I’ve enjoyed it with barbecue,
Asian fare, Mexican fare, pickled herring (Roederer Estate),
Creole French onion soup (Roderer's Hermitage) and on and on.
The week of March 4-7, I will attend the Charleston Wine &
Food Festival, and drop in on a seminar entitled “Champagne
& Charcuterie,” designed to challenge the business of pairing
food and bubbles. I’m all set!
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