Jane's
Monthly Dozen: Easter & Passover
by Jane Garvey
Easter,
including Orthodox Easter, and Passover, pretty well overlap
in 2009, with Passover starting on Thursday, April 9, and Good
Friday the following day, April 10. Orthodox Easter weighs in
on April 19. With friends in these communities, one could find
reasons to share meals with colleagues and cohorts throughout
the season. So we decided to suggest wines for all occasions.
For the most part, determining what to have for Easter dinner
is a matter of choosing wines that work well with traditional
meals, which typically include lamb, ham and roast chicken or
duck. These will vary from family to family depending on culture
and traditions. Orthodox Easter has some very specific traditions,
including red-dyed eggs--do them with boiled onion skins for
a lovely color and to avoid chemicals in typical dyes--lamb
or kid, traditional Easter bread, and perhaps roasted lemon
chicken.
If attending an Easter meal in an Orthodox household, almost
any Greek wine you would care to bring to the event would fit
some aspect of the menu. Greek wines have made their way onto
store shelves, and are fairly easy to find. But it might be
fun to bring a wine of Greek-American origin. Check out Lolonis
(Mendocino, CA), a pioneer in organic viticulture. Or Tagaris
in Washington State (see last
month's column).
Or ride up the road before Easter and visit Westbend Winery
in North Carolina near Lewisville, in the Yadkin River Valley
AVA. Founded in 1972 by Jack Kroustalis, a North Carolina-born
Greek American, the winery produces mostly vinifera.
With Passover, and indeed at any time if attending a meal in
an observant Jewish household, choose a wine marked not just
"Kosher," but also "Mevushal" if you don't
share the Jewish religious tradition. Mevushal means
boiled, a process that used to ruin the flavor of the wine.
But today, Mevushal wines are flash pasteurized then the temperature
is reduced quickly. But if a wine is Mevushal, it may
be enjoyed at the meal with everyone partaking of its contribution
to the repast. Some rabbis, being extra careful, tell their
congregants that a wine is not really kosher if it's not Mevushal,
but that is not the advice most dispense. When a wine is Mevushal,
it will be stated on the back label.
"We believe that wine is one of the most powerful things
socially that God gave us, says Rabbi Reuven Stein of the Atlanta
Kashruth Commission. But obviously, as Noah learned, it was
easy to commit sin with wine by drinking to excess. To avoid
excess, one should only drink the finer wines with people of
one's own community." "We use the non-Mevushal
wines for rituals, but in a public setting, we use Mevushal
wines, he adds. For weddings and bar/bat mitzvahs, wines must
be Mevushal, he cautions, because the public is admitted
to those events. And he further cautions that Mevushal
wines do not improve with age because the process inhibits development
in the bottle.
For Passover, wines also must be labeled Kosher for Passover,
a condition that will be either stated on the label or indicated
with the letter "P" next to the kosher designation.
What's the difference? The designation Kosher for Passover
means that the wine in that bottle was made to exclude any sub-elements
associated with grain as well as several common preservatives,
such as potassium sorbate. Most, but not all, wines from Israel
are Kosher for Passover.
Kosher wines are produced under rabbinical supervision and must
adhere to strict guidelines. Vegans may want to note that kosher
wines could meet their requirements, as neither egg white nor
gelatin is used to fine the wine. Instead, bentonite (a mineral
abundant in Minnesota) is often used for fining.
All that technical detail aside, the one thing I want to point
out is that it is NOT true that Kosher wines are, by definition,
syrupy and sweet. Recently checking a store's shelves for this
article, I found almost nothing but the syrupy sweet sort. That's
a real disservice. Years ago at a tasting, I introduced a friend
to a Kosher Sauvignon Blanc, and, after he'd tasted it, watching
his face express shock when I told him that the wine he had
just oooed and ahhed over was Kosher. Jewish immigrants to the
New World had been accustomed to dry dinner wines at home, but
didn't find those grapes available here, so made wine from what
was available, namely Concord, and other native American varieties.
But today, there's no need to continue with that sort of wine
unless, of course, you prefer it. And if you do, go for it!
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