Jane's Monthly Dozen: Big Reds for Cold Winter Warming
by Jane Garvey

Even though temperatures have started to rise, we still find enough chill in the air to warrant the warmth of good, rich reds—especially in the evening. Besides, the last real blizzard Atlanta had was in late March 1991, so March, as they say, can go out like a lion in this part of the world. Better stock up!

>>> This Month's Column

A Georgia Summer Escape…. north to Alaska.
by Greg McCluney

A Princess Cruise/Tour. Cool Scenery, hot food, and great wine combine for an Alaska journey fit for Royalty.

Snowbirds fly north for the summer, and certainly our summers in the Southeast can be sweltering if not bordering on unbearable. When writer Greg McCluney thinks of heading north...he is thinking WAY NORTH! >>> Read his Adventure

Atlanta Fine Wine Festival 2007 WRAP-UP
by Michael Bryan

The third annual Mason Murer Gallery affair provided tastings of plenty of $100+ bottles, along with cheese selections, chocolates from Bon Bons Confectionary and delicious food samples. DJ Greg Fitzgerald of sponsor WJZZ-107.5 poses with two happy participants (left). >>> View More Pictures

Introduction to Wine, Part I
Tuesday, March 13th (Piedmont Room, Midtown)
Monday, April 16th (Ajax Hall, Roswell)
This course is the beginning of your relationship with wine--it will move you from viewing it as a "social beverage" to one of a liquid encyclopedia. In addiiton to engaging teachers, you'll be tasting at least 8 wines in every class. More Info

• Winemaker Ernest Gallo Passes On
  Winemaker Ernest Gallo, who learned the craft of winemaking in the basement of the Modesto public library and went on to develop with his brother, Julio, one of the largest wine empires in the world, has died at age 97. Read Highlights of his life and accomplishments
• Trust Your Own Palate, says Wine Expert
  "It is your mouth after all. No one can tell you what you like. No critics, no wine experts. Drinking wine is a very personal experience," said Mary Ewing-Mulligan, the proprietor of New York's International Wine Center. Mary was the USA's first female Master of Wine. More
• What?! You Mean that Rare Wine I Just Bought is a FAKE?!
  Federal prosecutors looking into allegations of counterfeit wine sales have sent subpoenas to rare-wine collectors and to some of the world's leading auction houses, including Christie's in London and Zachys in New York, according to a published report. More
• Wine Drinkers May Be the Smartest People on Earth
  Not really. But even though I am a proponent of wine for health, wellness and longevity, I do rather enjoy the variety of articles supporting or differing with the notion. Recently, ANOTHER study shows that wine drinkers "may" live four years longer--assuming their livers hold up. Read more
• Positive Findings from Wine & Heart Health Symposium
  Research demonstrates that low to moderate use of wine helps suppress E. coli bacteria, may reduce
  the incidence of colorectal and gastric cancer, and even improves cognitive function as you age.
  Read Results of New Findings
• And if you still want more..."Can Red Wine Help you Live Forever?"
  Resveratrol is the ingredient in red wine that made headlines in November when scientists demonstrated that it kept overfed mice from gaining weight, turned them into the equivalent of Olympic marathoners, and seemed to slow down their aging process. This is the stuff that just makes wine drinkers smile as they move into glass #4 of their favorite red. More
• The REAL Impact of Our Nation's Wine Industry
  I can recall reading in 2001 the gross domestic product of wine in the US was only $60 billion. I remember thinking, huh, that's the annual revenues of many Fortune 500 companies. How puny! Well, the first study of the impact of the industry covering the entire USA (not just CA) is out--and surprise! It's not so puny anymore! The Full Article
  

SuperBowl Sunday 2007 was a real cold one here. Perfect for opening a bunch of red wines that had been carefully stored for a long time, and savoring them with a three-bone rib roast. We enjoyed a 1986 Far Niente Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley) that my dinner companion said was even better the following day; a 1996 Quintessa (Napa Valley (red table wine), still tasty even though it was a half bottle; and a 1997 Seсa, the Mondavi/Chadwick joint venture from Chile. Cold winter nights and red wines are just made for each other.

Even though temperatures have started to rise, we still find enough chill in the air to warrant the warmth of good, rich reds—especially in the evening. Besides, the last real blizzard Atlanta had was in late March 1991, so March, as they say, can go out like a lion in this part of the world. Better stock up.

Now is the time to explore a variety of red wine grapes if you have been stuck in a single mode, such as Cabernet Sauvignon. While Pinot Noir tends to be lighter in body than, say, Cabernet Sauvignon, other red wine grapes also tend to produce wines that are more full-bodied.

But bigger is not always better. Big, rough tannins are neither desirable nor fun. Some wines, such as those made from Zinfandel and Syrah, can be made in styles so big, so tannic and alcoholic, they really don’t work well with food. Some folks like to find the biggest, highest alcohol reds they can secure, but if the alcohol, tannins and the fruit are out of balance, they dull the palate and about the only food they’ll go with is dark chocolate. I, for one, can’t even sip these. High alcohol alone, however, is not a negative; indeed, it’s tough to make a Zinfandel that’s not high in alcohol because the bunches tend to ripen so unevenly that the grapes need to hang on the vine long enough to get most of them ripe, resulting in high sugars and, after fermentation, high alcohol. But if the fruit is good enough to handle the alcohol, the alcohol won’t cause that “burn” that can be so unpleasant. And if you do have a wine that has high tannin and alcohol, serve meats with some fat to them—rib roast; leg of lamb; roast duck—to soften the edges.

So what grapes should you look for as you get out of the “Cabernet” box? Certainly Syrah and Shiraz (they’re the same grape), Italian Nebbiolo, among other robust red wine grapes from Italy such as Negro Amaro, Primitivo (cousin to Zinfandel), and Nero d’Avola; Malbec from Argentina (as well as Bonarda); Carmenere from Chile; Pinotage from South Africa; Grenache (known in Spain as Garnacha or Garnatxa in Cataluсa), and Zinfandel, mostly from California but attracting attention elsewhere as well. Also discover blends, which may present more complexity than a single-variety wine (many of which often have a bit of this or that blended in anyway for the same purpose). Finally, please don’t follow Miles’ (Sideways) advice and abjure Merlot. It’s a most worthy grape when planted in the right places and properly tended and vinified.

About serving red wines. In general, a cool room temperature is best, especially if alcohol may be a bit out of bounds, as the cooler temperature will enhance the wine’s fruit character. Warmer temperatures will enhance the impression of alcohol, and heat isn’t a fine wine character. Invest in some decent glasses, as glass quality and shape does make a difference. And no, you don’t have to be a “connoisseur” to see that difference.
Enjoy your explorations, and keep that palate mind focused on the variety that red wines present.

Full-bodied dry red wine; deep almost black purple red. Initial aromas focus on dark, rich berries, plums and spice, although a little green bell pepper emerges as the wine opens in the glass. Rich, dark berry fruits start with spice but acquire a bit of bell pepper as the wine opens. Supple tannins well integrated with the fruit, clean long finish, and nice acidity. Pretty work. The herbaceousness, characteristic of the grape (Carmenere), is pretty well integrated in this example. Carmenere nearly disappeared from Bordeaux after phylloxera in the 19th century. Its new home is Chile, although more than 6,000 acres of it found in northern Italy once were thought to be Cabernet Franc. Chile thought its Carmenere was Merlot, a confusion cleared up in 1994 by a French ampilographer. Great value. Serve at cool room temperature, about 65 degrees.

Beef-stuffed empanadas; meat-filled raviolis with olive oil and fresh herbs, grilled steak with chimichurri sauce* (ok, so the sauce is from Argentina, but the combo is really good), grilled lamb steak, grilled well-seasoned sausages, salamis and other cured well-seasoned meats, Latin American-style sandwiches, such as Mexican tortas, well-seasoned legume dishes

Continental Beverage
$11

Full-bodied dry (very small RS) red wine; deep inky purple red. Aromas of blackberry and black currant, with touch of fruitcake. Sweet jam-rich black fruits. Lingering fruit-filled finish. Satisfying, with very silky tannins. Very slight typical Pinotage medicinal note on the aromas, but not on the finish. (Some Pinotage enthusiasts lament losing the old style, but I don't.) Grape: Pinotage--a crossing of Pinot Noir and Cinsault. Excellent example of the type, and terrific value. Serve at very cool room temperature, about 60-65 degrees.

Winery says with curry, and that's likely, because it loves spice and bold flavors. Smoked liverwurst (Patak), salamis and well-seasoned cured deli meats, Texas-style barbecued beef ribs with a mild medium-bodied tomato-based barbecue sauce (awesome, really), braised breast of veal with caramelized onions and mashed potatoes, grilled mildly spicy sausages; roast duck with aromatic spices or Chinese five spice seasoning, grilled steak with brie or blue-cheese drizzle, rich cheeses, oxtails cooked with Pinotage (a South African classic). Possibly peppered tuna?

Continental Beverage
$12

Medium/full-bodied dry red wine; medium ruby red. Aromas and flavors of red raspberries and black pepper, with good acidity and supple, fruit-centered tannins. Balanced, elegant, delicious. Firm but fruit-derived tannins. Not heavily alcoholic, thus capable of good food pairings. Very elegant style. Grapes: 100% Zinfandel from Mendocino (39%); Amador (36%); Sonoma (25%). Just released January 2007. Cool room temperature (about 65 degrees) in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Riedel makes a glass specifically for Zinfandel. My kinda Zin, 'cuz you can sip it and sip it and sip it, and it goes with food.

Spicy dishes: Barbecue with mild tomato-based spicy sauce; barbecued beef ribs; chicken, smoked chicken or pork ribs; smoked liverwurst (Patak); grilled ham steak; salamis; pastas with meats or garlic and cream, mild blue cheese, dark chocolate (so good it nearly hurts!).

Empire Distributing
$18

Full-bodied dry red wine; intense, nearly opaque purple red. Tasted twice. First time aromas showed a bit of animal character, but second tasting showed more straightforward red and dark fruits. Concentrated flavors follow the aromas with red and black berries dominating. Clean, long finish shows a bit of caramel, from oak. Soft, supple tannins. Very easy to enjoy. Grape: Shiraz (a/k/a Syrah). Moderately cool room temperature is best for serving, about 65 degrees.

Olives, empanadas, grilled sweetbreads, well-seasoned salamis and other cured meats, smoked liverwurst (Patak), braised veal's breast with caramelized onions and mashed potatoes; rib veal chop stuffed with prosciutto and Fontina cheese al Marsala (awesome); smoked chicken; barbecued pork ribs with mild tomato-based sauce

Bacco Fine Wine
$18

Full-bodied dry red wine; deep dark purple red. Aromatic red raspberry; Very pleasant rich red and dark fruits; mid palate a bit shallow, although finish lasts well, but isn't especially deep. Tannins are supple. Quite good value. Decant about an hour ahead of serving at 60 degrees in tall, tulip-shaped glasses. Vineyards established 1730. Size: 5.5 ha/ 13.6 acres; vines 25-30 years old. Grape types: Merlot (75%); Cabernet Sauvignon (25%); Cabernet Franc (5%). Vinified in stainless steel, then concrete, and finally oak. Puisseguin-St. Emilion is one of the sattellite appellations of St.-Emilion.

Well-flavored foods: Peppered liver pate; peppered tuna; salamies and cured meats, such as Rosette de Lyon; slow-cooked braised pork or veal; ravioli with pancetta, salami and ham, olive oil and Parmesan cheese; rabbit or other furred game; baked Vidalia onions stuffed with sweet potatoes and/or greens; well-flavored cheeses

Savannah Distributing
$20

Full-bodied dry red wine; medium deep ruby red. Aromas of red raspberries, touch of pencil shavings; developing spicy characters as the wine opens. On the palate, a touch of vanilla mingles with red fruit flavors. The long finish brings the fruit into focus, and supple tannins make for a pleasant drink. Grapes: Merlot (60%); Syrah (23%), Cabernet Sauvignon (17%). Room temperature (70 degrees) is fine, and doesn’t emphasize the alcohol. Serve in Bordeaux glasses.

Mousse of liver with aspic; meat ravioli with herbs, olive oil, unsalted butter and grated Parmesan cheese, grilled duck breast with Asian seasonings (such as five-spice powder) and a dark fruit glaze; steak (ham, beef or lamb), ragouts and stews (especially bean based with slightly spicy sausage); rich sweet creamy French cheeses (Brillat Savarin, Explorateur, or Delice de Bourgogne), creamy blue cheeses (e.g., Cambozola)

Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC
$20

Medium-bodied dry red wine; garnet red. Aromas still tight, but show evolved, subtle red fruits, also picked up on the palate. Seamless transition from aromas to flavors. Tannins are firm, but fruit-sourced, and should continue to ease with time. A slight bitterness hits the finish just as it's about to close, but it's not unpleasant. Notes of brown aromatic spices,and gentle toasty oak all play their roles. Grapes: Merlot (53%); Cabernet Sauvignon (33%), Cabernet Franc (13%; Petit Verdot (7%). Serve cool, about 60 degrees, in large tulip-shaped glasses. Originally part of Willem Adriaan van der Stel's Vergelegen, Morgenster is one of the oldest vineyard properties in the Cape.

Creamy pates, not-too-salty cured meats (Rosette de Lyon is perfect); duck ham, grilled hanger steak with blue cheese drizzle (particularly good), roast duck, chicken or Cornish hen; roast stuffed pork loin, bean dishes with or without meat, feathered game, creamy blue cheeses, such as Fourme d'Ambert.

Big Boat Wine Co.
$20

Full-bodied dry red wine; very dark, inky black opaque color. Aromas of caramel with a slight earthy note that eventually disappears, to be replaced by the scent of sweet cured tobacco. On the palate distinctive black fruits, core flavors recalling fruitcake and plum pudding. Silky tannins and well-integrated oak. Fruit-filled long finish, with a slight caramel note at the end, perhaps from American oak. Malbec is a Bordeaux variety also planted widely in Cahors (east of Bordeaux); its second home is Argentina. Cool room temperature, about 65 degrees, in tall tulip-shaped glasses. Good value.

Beef-filled empanadas, salamis and other cured meats, raviolis stuffed with ground sausage, beef and pancetta, sauced with olive oil and fresh herbs; braised veal breast with caramelized onions and mashed potatoes; Texas-style smoked beef ribs with a mild tomato-based sauce; steak with chimichurri sauce, grilled lam, roast duck, dark chocolate (awesome!)

Georgia Crown
$22

Full-bodied dry red wine; inky dark, nearly opaque ruby red. Initially tight, with little coming forward in aromas, but in about 30 minutes, it blooms, with voluptuous dark fruit aromas with hints of sweet cured tobacco. Fleshy tannins frame dark fruit flavors, all aimed at a clean, crisp, fruit-filled conclusion that lingers long on the palate. Alcohol is substantial (above 14%), but doesn't add any heat to this big fruit. Grape types: Petit Verdot (72%) (which accounts for the deep color) and Syrah (28%). Decant about 30 minutes ahead of serving, then erve cool (about 60 degrees) in large tulip-shaped glasses. Should cellar well for another half dozen years or so.

Braised rather than roasted, grilled or smoked meats. Braised pork with Asian seasonings; braised lamb with aromatic spices; breast of veal with caramelized onions and mashed potatoes, au jus. Also black olives, creamy garlicky pasta, Cajun turkey, mousse of liver with aspic (rather than a coarser-textured terrine); mild blue cheeses or other rich-flavored creamy cheeses

Ultimate Distributing
$30

Medium-bodied dry red wine; translucent garnet. Shy initial aromas develop with dried cherry characters dominating. Dried herb and dried red fruit on the palate, with substantial tannin. Good structure: supple fruit-derived tannins well resolved. Wine holds well over several days after being open, so good for sipping over a week’s time. Grape: Nebbiolo. Serve at room temperature, or slightly cooler, in large tulip-shaped glasses. Decant about an hour ahead of serving.

Cacciatorini (dried hunter style sausage common in the Piedmont, buy at DeKalb Farmers Market); mousse de foie with aspic; cured meats (prosciutto, brasaola), ravioli with herbs, butter, olive oil and grated Parmesan cheese; grilled veal chop stuffed with prosciutto and Fontina cheese al Marsala; roast chicken; eggplant vegetarian dishes prepared Italian style; cheeses (goat brie, creamy blues, such as Gorgonzola) and fruit

Bacco Fine Wine
$35

Full-bodied, very big dry red wine; inky opaque dark. Aromas of chocolate (malted milk balls), exotic spices (white pepper/cardamom) and dark berries, highly extracted. Exuberant, voluptuous, expressive dark berry fruit, with soft tannins but a good bit of alcohol. Sweet, intense fruit; firm fruit-derived tannins; some heat from alcohol. Lingering, fruit-rich finish. Not filtered perhaps? Organic vineyards. Mostly 2-4-year-old French oak barrels. Dry farmed, and it shows in the intensity, 26 acres, head pruned.. Grape type: Charbono, which ampilography has shown to be the nearly vanished Corbeau from the French Alps, and not Dolcetto as was once thought. Serve at cool temperatures to emphasize the fruit and get a handle on the alcohol, and use generous-bowled tulip-shaped glasses.

Well-seasoned dishes with a creamy texture: creamy liver mousse; roast beef with French-style or homemade mayonnaise; tournedos Rossini (filet with foie gras or a slice of liver pate) and demi-glace sauce; braised veal with caramelized onions and mashed potatoes; meat dishes with mild curry.

Ultimate Distributors
$35

Full-bodied dry red wine; very inky dark purple. Aromas still a bit closed, but air it out enough, and here come blackberry, black raspberry and spice, which also fill out the palate. Still tight. Will open further with additional bottle age. Elegant, very "Old World" style. Cellared properly, should last another 20 years. Grape types: Garnatxa Negre (65%), Cabernet.Sauvignon (20%), Syrah (15%), Ull de Llebre a/k/a Tempranillo & Pinot Noir (combined). Vines range in age from 10 to 40 years. Spent 12 months in French oak barrels (50% new, 50% second year), and in the bottle thereafter until release. Decant several hours ahead of serving at cool room temperatures in tall tulip-shaped glasses.

Creamy, rich cheeses, mild curried lamb with currants, lamb and duck dishes, pork with a dark fruit chutney or relish, braised veal with caramelized onions, legume dishes, stews and ragouts, game, dark chocolate.

Bacco Fine Wine
$45