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| Ivy
Kusler, Karin Brown, & Krissi Brown (left to right) went
out to Santa Barbara for the Santa
Ynez 1/2 marathon, then proceeded to hit Sanford, Au Bon
Climate and Alma Rosa (not pictured) Wineries. |
- Two
Atlanta-Area Wine Stores Looking for Wine Consultants
The Barn Bottle Shoppe in Milton, Georgia, is looking for a part-time
wine consultant. Call 770-343-9463 or email your resume to owner
Tim
Allen. And heading the other direction, in Peachtree
City, Ellen Lim is looking for a full-time wine consultant for
her very large (12k square foot) package store. Call 404-512-6589
or email Ellen Lim
- Use
Natalie's Interactive Food + Wine Matcher
Apart from being devlishly persistent, and a quest to own the
wine-web, Natalie comes across as sweet and dare I say almost
"Southern" in person. Perhaps that was just her way
of playing on our turf since Canada is her home? No matter. Her
food + wine matcher will give you plenty of quick pointers. More
- A
Drink a Day May Slow Mental Decline to Dementia
From subscriber Jim Morris...now if he could just remember where
he put his wine glass! More
- Wine
Investment Game Puts Wine Ahead of Stock Market
The
Challenge – an investment game run by London wine merchant Robert
Rolls for Comic Relief - showed total gains of 36% over a two
year period. That compares with 33% for the FTSE100 index. More
- World's
Biggest Cork Manufacturer Claims "Cork-Taint-FREE" Closure
After losing millions of dollars between 2000- 2004 to alternative
closure offerings, Amorin, the world's largest cork manufacturer,
believes it has the cure.
More
- Raise
a Glass to Mother Earth: Eco-Friendly Wines are HOT
Everyone is trying to be green today, from driving a hybrid car
to eating organic produce or switching on energy-efficient light
bulbs. The next step to protecting the Earth could be green wine.
But would you drink it? Winemaker and restaurateur Joe Bastianich
talks about organic wine. More
- Napa
Valley Attorneys Strike Back on Trademark Infringements
With their freshly minted Geographic Indication (GI)
status firmly in hand and giving them some global clout, Napa
Valley vintners are now preparing to go after those in China who
they feel are infringing upon their hard-won terroir status. The
Story
- Two-Buck
Chuck Wine Turns Five-Years Old
Three hundred million bottles later, Two Buck Chuck is still selling,
and Franzia is still preaching his message of wine for the masses.
More
- Wine
Scandal in California
Many in Sausalito still can't believe who is at the center of
the tale -- a man so woven into the civic fabric that he called
himself "Joe Sausalito" in his slice-of-Marin-life newspaper
column. He was a gregarious city commissioner with influential
friends, and an oenophile who belonged to the local wine society
-- that is, until the society's 1959 Chateau Lafite-Rothschild
vanished. More
Jane's
Monthly Dozen: The Wines of Alsace
by Jane Garvey Accorded
quality wine status in 1962, Alsace is a northeast region of France
that at times in the past was a part of Germany known as Elsass.
After World War II Alsace became French once more, but it's a region
of German names and food, with French accents everywhere. Caressing
the western edge of the Rhine River, it's participated in both cultures.
Alsace lies between 47.5 and 49 degrees north, so it has a long
and cool growing season. Winemaking is an old art in this region,
with many currently active domaines (or houses) dating at least
to the early 17th century.
South-facing slopes are key for vineyards to enable exposure to
the sun. Very low rainfall, thanks to the sheltering Vosges mountains,
and high altitudes (around 2,000 feet above sea level) of the vineyards
are the climate characters the region exploits. Most of the region's
wine production (about 90%) is white wines, Riesling (the most widely
planted variety), Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Muscat,
Chasselas and Sylvaner leading the pack. Pinot Noir is the only
red wine grape. Chardonnay is not allowed by law, but is found in
Alsace and chiefly shows up in its sparkling wines, or Cremant d'Alsace
(established 1976). Auxerrois also is known in Alsace, and is becoming
more present on its own.
Generally, as vintners seek to present fresh flavors emphasizing
fruit characters, most wines are done in neutral containers, not
new oak. Alsace is famous for its large oak cuves that can be more
than 100 years old, and are still being used. Most are fermented
dry, but a little residual sugar often is allowed to enable a soft,
round texture. Good acidity keeps balance. Alsace also is known
for luscious, and very expensive, sweet wines labeled vendange
tardive, which means literally "late harvest."
Lone among France's wine-growing regions, Alsace always has referenced
grape varieties on its labels, while other wine-growing regions
in France reference the region on labels. Forward looking, despite
its historic architecture and long history, Alsace has many producers
who have embraced screw cap, or Stelvin closure for wines (at least
for export) while the rest of France is still in an experimental
"over my dead body" mode on the subject.
As summer advances, Alsace offers great options for good summer
enjoyment, especially with light foods. Prices are pretty good,
too, with a number of choices under $20. But Grand Cru Alsace wines
(established in 1983) can easily double that, and vendange tardive
is higher still.
Alsace and the state of Georgia share some odd connections. The
Springer Opera House in Columbus, now the official state theater,
was established by an Alsace immigrant who raised the subscriptions
for its construction. Baron Johann deKalb, one of several European
titled gentlemen without whom the U.S. Revolution might never have
succeeded, was born in 1721 in the village of Huttendorf, a tiny
Alsace town that in 2000 counted fewer than 500 souls. In 1721,
Alsace was still part of Germany. He relieved the siege of Charleston
in 1780, fell there in battle, and is buried in Camden, SC. A stone
inscribed in German and a portrait bust honor him in Decatur's square.
So it's a good thing to celebrate Alsace, with its Germanic heritage
and history. Enjoy some of the dishes at Cafe Alsace in Decatur,
where you'll find a small wine list completely devoted to Alsace
wines. Using cuisine and wine to connect Atlantans with her home
turf, owner Benedicte Cooper has one of the city's most comforting
and warming restaurants.
Alsace white wines should be served moderately cold, about 50-55
degrees, with the Grand Crus at the higher range of those temperatures,
while the reds should be served cool, at about 60 degrees. Use a
tall tulip-shaped glass for the whites, and a Burgundy-style glass
(round and open, for the Pinot Noirs.
Dopff
& Irion Riesling 2005
|
Rating:
90 |
Medium-bodied
dry white wine; pale greenish straw. Delicate aromas of Meyer lemon,
fragrant citrus blossoms, the merest suggestion of diesel (classic
in Riesling), flavors capture citrus and pear, and good acidity
bolsters the mid-palate, giving it breadth. Long, clean, crisp finish.
Delicate, satisfying, crisp, dry flavors. Very food useful wine,
and perfect for summer.
All
manner of appetizers: tiny crab cakes, grilled scallops or shrimp,
mildly flavored creamy Thai shrimp salad with lemongrass; lightly
curried chicken salad, Asian dim sum, shrimp-filled shumai with
Ponzu dipping sauce. Also baked mild fish (halibut, tilapia, flounder,
sole) stuffed with crab, mildly seasoned seafood sausages with beurre
blanc. Keep it away from anything with dill or fennel.
Prestige
Wine Wholesale
$16
Andre
Scherer Pinot Blanc 2005
|
Rating:
91 |
Medium-bodied
dry white wine; medium straw. Aromas of pear and minerals, with
flavors that pick up on those notes and add a crisp tart apple character
at the end. This wine is all about minerality, and what sweetness
is there is derived from fruit. Just a lovely piece of work, and
an excellent value. Fleshy fruit character, with attractive crispness
in the finish, made more intriguing by an emerging note of citrus
peel.
Herbed
goat cheese, baked white fish, classic Alsatian tarte à l oignion;
stone-ground grits with scallops, shrimp and tasso ham; pork tenderloin
with apple chutney; any dish with caramelized onions and (including
(but not limited to) flounder, cod, halibut filet, skate wing, chicken
tarragon.
Unique
World Wines
$14
Adam
Reserve Pinot Blanc 2005
|
Rating:
90 |
Medium-bodied
slightly off-dry white wine; medium straw. Aromas and flavors of
honey-caressed pear and Asian pear apple, with stony minerlity to
add complexity and good acidity. Rich, supple mouthfeel.with a silky
texture. Lingering finish, with a decided crisp apple charter at
the end. Wine opens substantially after being allowed to breathe
briefly. Jean-Baptiste Adam founded the winery in 1614.
Roasted
turkey breast, grilled scallops with honey mustard or Rémoulade
sauce, anything with caramelized onions, such as classic Alsatian
onion-bacon tart, chicken thighs braised with caramelized onions,
chicken tarragon or chicken tarragon salad, Vidalia onions stuffed
with sweet potato purée and baked, crab cakes with saffron aioli
Georgia
Crown
$14
Willm
Gewurztraminer 2005
|
Rating:
88 |
Medium-bodied
dry white wine; medium gold. Classic true-to-varietal aromas of
quince, lichee nut , and flowers. Flavors kick in with more exotic
characters, including lichee nut and fresh quince, spice and Asian
pear apple. Balanced and with a broad palate, the wine finishes
at great length with clean fruit characters that remain true to
the type. Excellent value in the genre.
Sauerkraut
cooked in wine with a variety of sausages (Alsace choucrute garnie),
exotically flavored foods, such as anything with a Thai curry (if
not too hot), or Indian curry (sometimes cooled with raita), rich,
aged cheeses such as authentic Alsace Munster, pork steaks with
creamy whole grain mustard sauce; roast turkey
Quality
Wines & Spirits
$15
Trimbach
"Cuvee des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre" Gewurztraminer
2000
|
Rating:
94 |
Full-bodied
dry white wine; medium golden straw. Aromas of rose petal, lychee
nut and spice, classic for this varietal, with lychee nut and spice
flavors, also classical. Made only in certain years, the wine is
rich yet elegant, its seeming sweetness entirely derived from fruit.
Round and viscous, it fairly blooms in the mouth. Voluptuous, with
spice and lychee nuts continue through the close. Winery is based
in Ribeauville, Alsace, since 1626.
Save
for the most elegant purposes: as an aperitif with foie gras, creamy
goose or chicken liver mousse, roasted or smoked pork loin with
fruit chutney or whole-grain mustard; fried pork chops with sauteed
red onion, mild curried chicken salad with green bell peppers, mild
Indian dishes with chicken or fish; very rich, ripe assertive cheeses,
such as creamy French Muenster.
National
Distributing Company
$37
Domaine
Albert Boxler Edelzwicker 2005
|
Rating:
89 |
Medium-bodied
dry blended white wine; medium greenish straw. Aromas of lychee
nut and rose petal make it clear that Gewürztraminer is part of
the blend. The flavors hit on target with spice and lychee nut.
Balance is key, with good acidity pushing the frout through to a
long, satisfying finish. Albert Boxler is a 300-year-old family
winery in Niedermorschwihr, now run by Jean Boxler, a graduate of
the viticulture program at the University of Montpellier. Jean made
his first vintage in 1995. "Edelzwicker" like "Gentil,"
is a term that denotes a blend of several varieties.
Roast
turkey breast with lemon and thyme (outstanding!), roast pork loin,
spâtzle with ham and cream, baked Vidalia onion stuffed with sweet
potato, chicken thighs baked with caramelized onions, gently seasoned
Indian food, especially such dishes as a cold curried creamy chicken
soup. Curried chicken salad, poached chicken breast sliced across
greens with a curried mayonnaise drizzle
Avant
Partir
$18
Clos
de la Folie Marco Sylvaner 2003
|
Rating:
88 |
Medium-bodied
dry white wine; medium pale yellow. Aromas of fenugreek seed, slight
suggestion of honey, lead to a palate marked mostly by pear, exotic
fruit and a touch of honey (the taste, not the sweetness) in the
close, with a decently long finish. Round texture, with good acidity.
Unusual exotic spice in mid palate, suggestive of anise or fenugreek...The
grape Sylvaner is mostly associated with Alsace in France, but is
chiefly known in Germany's Franken wines. Alsace Sylvaner does best
in a hot vintage, and 2003 would certainly qualify.
White
asparagus with unsalted butter, spatzle with ham and cream, roast
turkey with lemon and thyme, rich substantial casseroles such as
Vidalia onion casserole, Alsace onion tart, pork steak with cream
and whole grain mustard, crab cakes
Atlanta
Wholesale Wine/NDC
$14
Domaine
Charles Schleret Riesling Herrenweg 2002
|
Rating:
93 |
Medium-bodied
dry white wine; medium gold. Classic Riesling aromas focused on
pear and quince, with flavors that follow the same path. Unified
from stem to stern, the aromas set up what the palate finds and
continue through the very long finish to the crisp, dry close. Somewhat
steely texture with a slight, but pleasing, butter note, as from
citrus zest, in the close. Singular stuff.
Grilled
scallops with mild Remoulade sauce or tartar sauce; choucroute garni
with whole-grain mustard, fish baked with cream or pan-poached in
beer then served with a mustard Béchamel sauce; coq au Riesling
(coq au vin made with Riesling); roast turkey breast, light appetizers
if served as an aperitif
Quality
Wine & Spirits
$22
Domaines
Schlumberger Kitterle Grand Cru Pinot Gris 2002
|
Rating:
96 |
Full-bodied
sweet white wine; medium-deep golden straw. Rich aromas of sweet
ripe white fruits, with flavors that repeat these characters and
keep them fresh and vibrant through the broad mid -palate and finish.
Rich, sweet but balanced with good acidity, and voluptuous in texture.
Residual sugar is about 5%. Nice to get this with a little age on
it, deepening the flavors. The Kitterle vineyard was first commented
on in the early 17th century.
As
an aperitif with foie gras or creamy liver mousses; blue cheese
souffle. Creamy exotically flavored (such as with lemongrass) and
very slightly spicy Asian seafood or chicken dishes; pork or chicken
with caramelized onions and a touch of whole-grain mustard. As dessert
with fruit tarts, creamy blue cheese or simply not-too-sweet cookie.
Empire
Distributing
$40
Domaine
Hering Pinot Noir 2004
|
Rating:
88 |
Light-
medium-bodied dry red wine; translucent medium dark cherry red.
Delicate scent of chocolate-covered red cherries; clean, soft, red
cherry fruit flavors. Light and uncomplicated, but very tasty. Easy
tannins. Clean, long finish. Great summer red. Serve at cool room
temperature, about 60-65 degrees.
Silky-textured
liver pate, smoked liverwurst, roast duck, grilled lamb chops or
steak, baked or (better) grilled salmon, tuna or firm, meaty mild
white fish (such as halibut), mushroom ravioli with olive oil and
garlic, mild creamy cheeses, barbecued chicken
Atlanta
Wholesale Wine/NDC
$15
Domaine
Riefle "Classique" Pinot Gris 2004
|
Rating:
91 |
Full-bodied
off-dry white wine; medium gold. Aromas of sweet apricot and other
yellow stone fruits, with lush fruit flavors and good acidity building
a fine tasting experience. Texture is round and silky, a reflection
of the residual sugar. But the acid backbone that runs through it
keeps it from becoming cloying. Dating to the early 17th century,
Riefle is another long-established Alsace vintner.
Lightly
spicy creamy Thai shrimp dishes with lemongrass, mild curries, e.g.,
poached chicken breast with a lightly curried mayonnaise traced
across it, roast turkey breast, creamy dishes, foie gras or creamy
liver mousses and pates, fruit tarts that aren't wicked sweet
Grape
Expectations
$19
Pierre
Sparr Riesling Reserve 2004
|
Rating:
89 |
Medium-bodied
dry white wine; medium gold. Suggestion of diesel, a classic Riesling
character, in the aromas, with quince, pear and exotic fruit flavors
on the palate. Good acidity lends structure, and the finish is long
and consistent with the palate, but just a mite hot. Mouthfeel is
silky and round, suggesting the presence of a bit of residual sugar,
perhaps .04, but the finish is dry.
Roast
turkey breast, roast chicken, coq au Riesling (just like coq au
vin but made with Riesling), lightly curried dishes, baked or oven-fried
crumbed fish with tartar sauce; creamy chicken or seafood dishes,
choucroute garni with whole grain mustard, spâzle with cream and
ham
Georgia
Crown
$18 |