Jane's
Monthly Dozen: Riesling & Rosé
by Jane Garvey
Consumers
are beginning to catch on to Riesling and Rosé, especially
to the inimitable food flexibility they offer. Winemakers know
how true this is, but consumers have been a bit slow to get
it.
Even recently, at Tobin James in Paso Robles, I had to hornswaggle
two women into trying the excellent Syrah-based dry rosé.
“It’s refreshing,” I told them. Some time later, we agreed that
I would try the Petite Sirah (I hadn’t liked its “fruit bomb”
description) if they would sip the rosé. Both women were
stunned. Clearly forgetting what I had said earlier, one of
them exploded: It’s so refreshing!!!
Bingo!!!
Both Riesling and rosé should be refreshing. Both should
show fine fruit characters, although obviously they will be
different. Both should exhibit good acdity and balance. Both
will embrace a wide variety of foods and bring a high level
of satisfaction to the table. Although representing many moderate
price points, each category is gaining such enthusiastic following
that prices are rising. For Riesling that’s a recovery, as in
the 19th century it cost more than Bordeaux. That’s what a couple
of wars will do for your product.
While many people think of drinking rosé only in warm
weather, I refuse to give it up in chillier moments. If I’m
eating fajitas and there’s a blizzard going on out there, why
am I obliged to change my wine? It’s ideal with Mexican and
Southwestern fare. Recently dining at Nava, I called ahead to
see what they offered in the genre. Nada. So I took my own,
paying a $15 corkage fee for the privilege. Well worth it. And
I don’t care what the weather’s doing. It was splendid with
the smoked shrimp queso fundido and the lamb chops with an intriguing
“succotash.”
Besides, in winter we have the southern hemisphere rosés
arriving freshly bottled, so why should we wait several months
to drink them when they’re not as fresh as when they arrived.
That makes no sense either. The beauty of the Bodegas Melipal
Malbec rosado with Thai food is so compelling, it would be ridiculous
to wait six months to drink it.
Both Riesling and rosé may be made still and sparkling,
sweet, semi-sweet and dry. And all have their roles to play.
Along with other bubble enthusiasts, I adore brut rosé
Champagne and sparkling wine, ranking them above their siblings.
Sparkling Riesling, which Germans call sekt, is a delightful
business, lovely with Asian fare and sushi.
Serve these still wines in tall tulip-shaped glasses. Riedel
makes a glass appropriate for each type, and if you become a
fan, it might be worthwhile to acquire a few of each sort. The
proper temperature for these wines is roughly cellar temperature,
or about 55ºF/13ºC. Sparkling wines should be served in tall
tulip-shaped glasses at about 45ºF/8ºC.
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