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| Amanda Wuest (left) accompanied Missy Ballew (AWS student) on her
excursion to the island of Santorini in Greece. And you thought wine tasting was
challenging? Check out the helpful key on how to properly taste in Greek!
(right). |
Jane's Monthly
Dozen: Summer Sippers by Jane Garvey
Wines
for summer sipping, whether solo around the pool or with food, need to be light on
the palate, easy to enjoy, good food companions, and possessed of good, crisp
acidity to cut through the heat. It's a good plan in this heat to avoid wines that
are heavy with oak or alcohol.
Most consumers tilt their wine choices
toward white wines, and Summer is a good time to explore other wines, such as
acid-rich Pinot Grigio from the Friuli (not the Veneto, as these typically lack
acidity), Verdelho, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Albarino (especially
with shellfish), Gruner Gelatine (from Austria), and Soave. Riesling is a great
choice for summer. Typically done in stainless steel and with temperate alcohol,
often under 10%, Riesling, especially dry or trocken Riesling, is refreshing and
food friendly.
Summer is when most people think they should drink roses,
although, again, I confess I WOULD drink one in a blizzard. Not all pink wines are
built alike, as consumers are beginning to realize. They're not all sweet. The
fashion today is for dry rose, some so deeply colored they might almost be
designed light reds. They're great with barbecue and typically embrace all the
side dishes we serve with barbecue. Well, maybe not cole slaw. And they're ideal
with Asian fare. The fashion and passion for rose has led noted wine glass
producer Riedel to make a rose glass for the third year. This is not as easy a
project as might seem, because of the variety of grape types from which roses are
made. This year's glass, in Riedel's Vinum series, is a tall tulip-shaped glass
with a pink stem. When the wine is in the glass, it looks as though it fills the
stem. Very pretty. Fifteen percent of the proceeds from the sales of the glass
benefit Living Beyond Breast Cancer. (Sets of two glasses cost $50.)
Don't
abandon red wines in summer. Instead of the heavier Zinfandels and Cabernet
Sauvignon-based blends, try a Beaujolais. Lighter bodied, Beaujolais are extremely
food friendly and bring to the table soft tannins and a lot of fruit character. Be
sure to cool them before serving, to about 60 degrees. The fruit literally
pops. Lighter-bodied Italian reds, such as Dolcetto, are good choices, and so
is Pinot Noir. As with Beaujolais, don't hesitate to cool these down substantially
before serving them. It makes quite a difference.
Summer also is a time for
inventive cocktails, and one of the most refreshing wine-based cocktails you can
get is white Port over a bit of ice with some tonic water (just a splash) and a
wedge of lime or lemon. This is authentic Portuguese aperitif sipping, and
although it often comes as a surprise to consumers, once they taste it, they fall
in love with the refreshing character it imparts. Serve it with simple nibbles,
and imagine yourself high over the Duoro River on a warm afternoon.
Sangria
is a favorite in summer, and if you make your own, you'll never again deal with
the bottled version. Start by macerating some cut up fruits, including some citrus
and melon, and sugar with a bit of brandy. Take a good, inexpensive Spanish red
wine and pour it over the fruits. When ready to serve, pour into tall glasses over
ice about half way and top with club soda. Set a wedge of orange on the side, and
who says it's hot out there? You also can do a white sangria, sticking with white
fruits and maybe including a fresh cherry or two for contrast. Torres Vi?a Sol,
100% Parellada, is an ideal wine choice for this project.
Below are some
ideas for summer wine enjoyment. Experiment. Get outside the box. Loosen that
collar and tie. Relax. It's time to DRINK wine, not just "oooh and ahhh" over it,
and pronounce wise remarks thereon before imbibing it. Just drink it.
Dow's Fine White Porto (NV) Portugal
|
Rating:
92 |
Full-bodied somewhat
sweet white wine; medium golden color. Intense aromas of fresh golden fruits, with
hints of apricots; palate shows a complex nutty character. Finish is long and
clean. Grapes: Malvasia Fina and Gouveio (a/k/a Verdelho). Fermented at moderately
cool temperatures. Some aged in wood, so it acquires that golden color and
nuttiness, and the rest is not in wood so it retains fresh fruit characters. The
blend is downright lovely, and nearly a miracle at this price. Serve chilled in
small glasses or, as in Portugal, on the rocks with tonic water (a splash!) and
lime wedges. Most refreshing!
Aperitif: salted
almonds; cheese straws or cheese biscuits; grilled cocktail-sized sausages; green
olives, liver pate on unsalted crackers. Cooking tip: Sautee pork medallions or
chicken breasts, de-glaze the pan with some of the wine, add cream and reduce, and
dinner's ready.
Georgia
Crown $10
Bodegas Frutos Villar Vina Morejona 2005
Rueda,
Spain
|
Rating:
89 |
Medium-bodied dry
white wine; pale gold. Very delicate, indeed somewhat shy, aromas focused on
tropical fruit (suggestion of pineapple) and wet hay; flavors are pleasant but
simple a the outset. Suddenly, a decisive mineral note emerges. Finish is long,
lively and mineral-rich. Good acidity. Clean, crisp conclusion. Grape type:
Verdejo. Blended in are Viura and a bit of Palomino. Serve moderately chilled,
about 55-60 degrees, as delicate flavors are easily dimmed by excess cold. Use a
tulip-shaped glass.
Very light
appetizers: Smoked salmon mousse with dill (excellent); fried chicken with (or
without) honey mustard, cocktail-sized potatoes stuffed with sour cream, smoked
salmon and dill; Spanish chicken croquetas, fried fish with tartar sauce, crab
cakes or deep-fried calamari with lemon a?oli
Bibb Distributing
Co. $13
Windshaker Ridge Verdelho 2005 Swan District, Western
Australia
|
Rating:
89 |
Medium-bodied dry
white wine; pale greenish gold. Effusive aromas of tropical fruits, especially
passion fruit and star fruit (carambola), cherimoya and similar exotic fruits.
Flavors are complex, with these characters plus honeydew melon, citrus and
substantial minerality. Follow-through is excellent, with flavors lasting long on
the palate. Silky texture, with good acidity, although a burst of acidity at the
end suggests acid adjustment post fermentation. No oak. Very fine value. Verdelho
is a grape making its presence felt now in Australia. Serve moderately chilled,
about 60 degrees, to keep the fruit flavors dynamic. Use tall tulip-shaped
glasses.
Raw or roasted
oysters with fresh lemon; deep-fried oysters or calamari with lemon a?oli, fresh
vegetable salads, such as pea with tarragon and Dijon mustard; Caesar salad with
anchovies, chicken salad-stuffed avocado, creamy shrimp salad with lemongrass,
mild curried salads (chicken or tofu with curry), seafood or chicken with Asian
flavors., steamed crab legs or lobster with drawn lemon butter
Bibb Distributing
Co. $13
Clos LaChance Hummingbird Series "Glittering-Throated Emerald"
Chardonnay (unoaked) 2006 Monterey, CA
|
Rating:
88 |
Light/medium-bodied
dry white wine; pale golden straw. Tropical fruit aromas begin with grapefruit
then slide into pineapple and banana as the wine opens. Crisp citrus flavors
follow on the palate, with citrus-tinged acidity that leaves a mouthwatering and
very long finish. Well-integrated pineapple and banana flavors are the hallmark
from beginning to end. Grape: Chardonnay. Serve chilled, about 55 degrees, in tall
tulip-shaped glasses. New in Atlanta.
Cracked cold crab
legs with garlic mayonnaise, creamy composed salads (Thai lemongrass shrimp,
creamy mild curried chicken or tofu salad with chopped tart apples), cold oysters
with lemon (raw or roasted), fried oysters, bacon-wrapped grilled shrimp, grilled
scallops with mustard mayonnaise, wood-grilled mild fish (snapper, wild striped
bass) with mango relish or salsa
Prestige Wine
Wholesale $13
Trimbach Pinot Blanc 2004 Alsace,
France
|
Rating:
91 |
Medium-bodied dry
white wine; medium pale straw. Stony minerals penetrate the
fine fruit aromas, and lead the complex, slightly spicy, pear/apple
fruit flavors. A dab of quince kicks in toward the close. Steely
clean. Explosion of fruit and minerals at the end. Serve moderately
cool, about 55-60 degrees, to maximize flavors, and use tall
tulip-shaped glasses.
Poached or baked
salmon; crab cakes with Hollandaise, shrimp on grits with a creamy sauce; roast
turkey breast, spatzle with ham; chicken thighs with caramelized onions,
soft-shell crab and crab cakes, a creamy mild cheese, such as Delice de Bourgogne,
Explorateur or St. Andre.
Atlanta Wholesale
Wine/NDC $15
Broman Cellars Sauvignon Blanc 2004 Napa Valley,
CA
|
Rating:
88 |
Medium-bodied dry
(about .2 RS) white wine; very pale straw. Aromas blend honeydew melon and lemon
(winemaker says Meyer lemon especially, but that's a California specific variety).
Lemongrass and honeydew fill the palate, which is lingering, clean and crisp.
Luscious, creamy texture (there's that .2 RS). No barrel aging--all stainless
steel. And no malolactic fermentation, so wine remains crisp. Very good food wine.
Serve moderately cool, about 55-60 degrees, to maximize flavors, and use tall
tulip-shaped glasses.
Green olives, goat
cheese with green olives and fresh herbs, raw oysters with lemon or roasted
oysters with lemon butter (Apalachacolas are still tasty at this time of year);
bacon-wrapped grilled scallops with mustard mayonnaise; chicken salad with
tarragon and almonds, pea salad with scallions and green bell pepper; ensaladilla
rusa (assorted vegetables, tiny shrimp, mayonnaise)
Bacco Fine
Wine $19
Jaboulet "Parallele 45" 2006 Cotes-du-Rhone,
France
|
Rating:
91 |
Medium-bodied dry
rose wine; lovely salmon pink. Captivating aromas of fresh red fruits, from
cherries to a hint of pomegranate; flavors drill into red fruits and pick up
complexity from spice notes. Acidity, minerality and tannins all contribute to
raising this wine above the level most people expect in something pink. Saignee
method--that is free-run juice is pumped off red grapes. Aged briefly in
temperature-controlled tanks. It's real wine, Folks. Grapes: 50% Grenache, 40%
Cinsault, 10% Syrah. Moderately chilled, about 55-60 degrees, in tall tulip-shaped
glasses. Phenomenal value.
Salamis and cured
meats, grilled ham steak, roll-up sandwiches with ham and turkey, grilled
vegetables, composed salads, wraps, burritos with chicken and black beans,
fajitas, barbecue, barbecued chicken, grilled chicken or grilled shrimp with salsa
Romesco, escalivada or any eggplant dish with tomato, caponata,
ratatouille
National
Distributing Company $11
El Coto de Rioja Rosado 2006 Rioja,
Spain
|
Rating:
88 |
Full-bodied dry rose
wine; translucent reddish pink. Aromas of strawberry and red raspberry; with fresh
red fruit flavors that capture a hint of candied apple, spice and the suggestion
of cinnamon hearts. Skin and juice maceration for 48 hours, then stainless steel
fermentation at cold temperatures. Grapes: 50% Tempranillo, 50% Garnacha, grown in
Rioja Alavesa. Serve moderately chilled, about 55 degrees, in tulip-shaped
glasses.
Pimento cheese,
"Bolito" (ham, pickle, /// from Publix), smoked salmon mousse, antipasti, composed
salads, shellfish or crab cakes with Remoulade sauce (not too spicy), fried or
barbecued chicken, smoked meats, grilled sausages, grilled shrimp in the shell,
roll-up sandwiches and wraps, grilled ham steak, bacon-laced baked
beans
Grapefields $13
Domaine des Trois Valets Beaujolais 2005 Beaujolais,
France
|
Rating:
92 |
Medium-bodied dry
red wine; medium-deep purple red. Aromas of fresh red cherries, dark fruits emerge
shortly; delicious berry flavors shape the palate. Rich core of sweet dark fruits,
with good acidity and a long, clean finish. Soft tannins. Classic Beaujolais, but
lacks that distinctive bubble gum character that make consumers disavow the genre.
Grape: Gamay noir ? jus blanc. Serve moderately chilled, about 60 degrees, in
tulip-shaped glasses to capture the lovely fruit.
Grilled hanger steak
with mushroom sauce and grilled vegetables; grilled, roasted or fried chicken;
Cajun deep-fried or roasted turkey; grilled sausages with bacon-laced baked beans,
roast pork tenderloin, Santa Maria-style barbecue (tritip with dry spiced rub),
mild cheeses
Grapefields $16
Frederic Mabileau St.-Nicolas de Bourgeuil "Les Rouilleres" 2005,
St. Nicolas de Bourgueil, Loire Valley, France
|
Rating:
88 |
Medium-full-bodied
dry red wine; inky deep purple red. Raspberry aromas, with the merest hint of lead
pencil, burst forth from the glass, literally perfuming the surrounding air. A
deep, rich core of black fruit and suggestion of brown spices fills the palate.
Finish is a little alcoholic, so be sure to serve with richer foods and slightly
cooled, and serve in a generous-bowled glass. Mostly Cabernet Franc, with some
Cabernet Sauvignon likely blended with it. Bourgueil is an appellation in the
western part of the Touraine district (department [like a state] of
Indre-et-Loire, named for the two rivers whose intersection shapes it) of the
Loire Valley. St.-Nicolas de Bourgueuil is a small village just west of Bourgueil;
its wines are usually lighter than Bourgueil and mature more quickly, but this
example offers substantial weight and extraction. Its silky texture (soft tannins)
and rich fruit appeal for outdoor barbecues. Serve cool, about 65 degrees, in
tulip-shaped glasses. New in market.
Smoked liverwurst
(Patak); wood-grilled lamb shoulder chops (give them just a bit of char) marinated
in olive oil, red wine vinegar, garlic and herbs; grilled sausages, hanger steak,
assorted grilled vegetables, Southern style barbecue (pulled or chopped with a
mild tomato-based sauce), barbecued chicken with the same style sauce, even
Chinese-style barbecued spareribs
Quality Wine &
Spirits $18
Morgan Cotes du Crow's 2005 Monterey,
CA
|
Rating:
93 |
Medium-bodied dry
red wine; deep purple red. Intense aromas of blackberries with hints of rhubarb
and strawberry. Palate picks up the same characters and, framed by soft tannins,
continues through a long, delectable finish. Touches of vanilla throughout, but
not overwhelming. Gentle use of French oak, just 20% new. Just plain delicious.
Grapes: 50-50 Grenache and Syrah from San Lucas appellation in southern Monterey.
At cooler temperature, about 60 degrees, the fruit really pops. Use a tall
medium-bowl tulip-shaped glass. This is seriously tasty work.
Country-style
salamis, grilled sausages, rough-textured terrines, roast duck, grilled lamb,
grilled Cornish hens brushed with blackberry jam thinned with some of the wine;
Asian barbecued pork spareribs, classic Southern pulled pork or ribs with
tomato-based slightly spicy (but not wicked hot) sauce or vinegar-tomato-pepper
sauce, bacon-baked beans
Atlanta Wholesale
Wine/NDC $18
Weingut Erich Braun & Sohn Huxelrebe & Ortega Auslese
2002 Pfalz, Germany
|
Rating:
90 |
Medium-bodied sweet
white dessert wine; slightly reddish golden color. Sweet aromatic scent focused on
golden fruits--apricot and peach--with flavors that capture the same fruits. Silky
textured, viscous and long finished. Sweet but not cloying, despite low acidity.
Grapes: 67% Huxelrebe, first cultivated in the 1950s, and 43% Ortega, a crossing
of Muller-Thurgau and Siegerrebe, named for Spanish philosopher Jose Ortega y
Gasset. Also grown also in British Columbia and to some extent in eastern Canada.
Both are known for low acidity, but these example seems to be well balanced.
Perhaps it was acid adjusted. Alc.10%. Extraordinary value. Serve in small
tulip-shaped glasses at about 55 degrees.
Fresh peaches or
poached peaches and vanilla creme anglaise; peach fried pie; not-too-sweet cookie;
shortbread; langues de chat; vanilla cookie. Creamy blue cheeses: sauteed pears
with Cambozola. Also as an aperitif with foie gras, foie gras terrines and
mousses.
Continental
Beverage $13/375 ml. |