Jane's
Monthly Dozen: Winter Wines
by Jane Garvey
Some
folks put away their white wines in winter, figuring they're
too light to go with substantial winter dishes. Just as I tell
folks who stop drinking red wines in summer, there’s no reason
to stop drinking either whites or rose in winter. What’s the
food? And what’s the mood? That is your chief consideration.
That said, the whites, rose and sparkling wines you choose should
more likely be fuller-bodied ones than the wines you would enjoy
in spring and summer with light fare. In pairing food and wine,
weight is a major factor. Hefty dishes need big, robust wines.
Pair a light-bodied wine with a big dish, and the poor wine
gets lost in the mix.
Big robust white wines can accompany a wide range of winter
dishes. Full-bodied rose wines make merry music with robust
bean and barbecue dishes. It’s all about choosing properly.
Cold weather inspires us to make stews, bean dishes--the great
fabada asturiana comes to mind or cassoulet--braised
meats, dishes such as the pork with sauerkraut I made to check
out with the St. Christopher Gewurztraminer below. Sure wouldn’t
want that fare when the temperature is over the top. But when
we’re flirting with temperatures nearing 0F and there's snow
predicted (as I write this), well, it's comfort food or bust,
I say. And the wines to pair with these dishes need to have
a measure of robustness, too.
Even so, the flavors still must speak to each other. I remember
a woman asking in a wine store if Chardonnay would be the choice
to pair with her sauerkraut dish. Eeee gad--NO! Too much acidity
in the dish will kill most Chardonnays as they don't have much
acidity if they‘re from California, and besides the flavors
don't speak to each other. The sauerkraut has acidity and cabbage--fermented
cabbage--and with that you want Chardonnay's lemon, pineapple
and apple tones? I don’t think so. Apple, sure. But lemon? And
tropical fruit?
Wonderful tasting experiences can come from experimenting with
seasonings and flavors. Make cinnamon and nutmeg do savory duty
and see what happens with a robust Syrah or Italian wine. Curry
has a good rapport with Riesling, and so does Gewurztraminer.
So try those pairings to see if you like them. Game done in
a traditional German style with a brown sauce is lovely with
a Spatlese trocken. Sauerbrauten with beer? Of course. But also
with either Riesling trocken or a medium-dry Gewurztraminer.
Winter dishes make me want to cook. And experiment with wine
pairings along with cooking. See what you think of the following
suggestions for this month.
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