Jane's
Monthly Dozen: New Australian Wines in Market
by Jane Garvey
There
are some odd connections between Georgia and Australia. Georgia
was supposed to become the prison colony, according to plans
conceived by founder Gen. James E. Oglethorpe. But it didn’t
pan out, thanks to that little dust-up we had with Mother England
three-quarters of the way through the 18th century.
Meanwhile, a half dozen years earlier, another James, this one
an English fellow surnamed Cook, sailed into Botany Bay, as
he named the spot on Australia’s eastern coast, and set the
stage for that continent/country’s becoming England’s prisoners’
colony. When the First Fleet laden with prisoners landed in
1788 at Botany Bay, it found the area unsuitable and re-located
to more hospitable Port Jackson on January 26, 1788—thus marking
that date as Australia’s national day. You know Port Jackson
today as the site of Sydney Harbor, with its iconic sail-rigged
opera house symbolizing all that bustling city has to offer,
including one of the world’s finest restaurants, Tetsuya’s.
As in Georgia, winemaking was one of the Australian colonists’
purposes, but the nation that today is the world’s fourth largest
exporter of wine struggled to find its viticultural footing
at first. The first vines came with that First Fleet, but success
was not assured until the 1820s, when Gregory Blaxland became
the first person to export Australian wines. Until the late
1970s, Australia was mostly known for producing sweet and fortified
wines—“stickies” they call them—but while “stickies” are still
an important component of Australia’s winemaking tradition,
the range of wines available from “Down Under” has broadened
substantially.
Today, retailers report a falling off in sales of Australian
wines, and the causes are hard to pinpoint. Have the “critter”
wines caused consumers to become bored with the genre? Or to
assume that all Australian wines taste like that? Are consumers
convinced that higher cost Australian wines would simply be
bigger versions of the same juice? (Horrors!) Some Australian
reds are so high in alcohol and so “big” one can scarcely finish
a glass, much less a bottle. Is that circumstance causing Americans
to turn away from the genre?
If so, that’s a shame. True, some Australian reds do come across
as “too thick,” as a cousin of mine likes to say. I, too, recently
tossed on the cutting room floor a fairly expensive red wine
that I couldn’t even get to go with chocolate. The best companion
for the heftier styles of Australian red wine is spice, and
lots of it. I remember finding boredom in a bottle of D’Arenberg’s
“Darry’s Original,” a Grenache/Syrah blend, until I paired it
with some lamb rogan josh a couple of days after I opened it.
That, in fact, was an epiphany moment.
What grape types does one find in Australia?
Despite an argument on the matter that I had in a store a year
or two ago, Australia does NOT have any native grapes. Not.
Shiraz included. Shiraz, which they’ll pronounce either Shirah
or Shir-aaaz, is associated most prominently with “Down Under,”
but it’s a grape that comes to Australia from the Rhône Valley
in France, where it’s known as Syrah. Semillon and Verdelho
are closely associated with Australia, which nonetheless produces
some very good Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, the latter especially
in Adelaide Hills north of the city. I’ve seen Chenin Blanc
in McLaren Vale, south of Adelaide.
Australia is the world’s second largest producer of Riesling
after Germany, with about 10,000 acres of it planted. The best
will come from Eden Valley, Clare Valley, and Frankland River
in Western Australia, all cool climate zones.
Heftier reds grow well in the warm, red soils of Hunter Valley,
north of Sydney; although this also is Semillon’s best turf.
Hunter is Australia’s oldest and largest wine-growing region.
McLaren Vale, south of Adelaide, does excellent reds and whites.
Heathcote, north of Melbourne, is a cool-climate zone that turns
out elegant, stylish Shiraz. Pinot Noir is lovely when it comes
from the Mornington Peninsula, which extends from the mainland
south of Melbourne, and Yarra Valley, north of the city. McLaren
Vale does excellent Grenache, in addition to Shiraz, and you’ll
find the odd Zinfandel producer as well. Stickies rule in Rutherglen
north of Melbourne, and east of Rutherglen is King Valley, a
little-recognized region that does very good whites and reds.
And down in Tasmania, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and the aromatics—Riesling,
Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris—come off very nicely indeed. I love
the sparkling wines from Jansz, located in Tasmania.
Australian wine also received a Georgia accent last year when
Atlantans Pete & Terri Kight purchased the Torbreck Winery
in Barossa, an award-winning producer of Shiraz and Grenache-based
wines.
What better way to join in the celebration than to investigate
aspects of Australian wine you might not have explored before?
If you’re stuck on the “critter” wine that have become the hallmark,
now is a good moment to find other and certainly better choices.
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