| Jane's
Monthly Dozen: Pinot Noir
by Jane Garvey
After
Miles, the main character in the film Sideways, totally turned
American wine palates on their taste buds with his positive
comments about Pinot Noir, Americans launched a virtual search
and destroy mission for the wines. Some vintners, it’s rumored,
took to pumping up their Pinot with Petit Sirah to boost the
body and extend the supply line, a practice abjured by purists.
For wine lovers who get high on finesse and elegance, nothing
beats Pinot Noir in red wines. It's the wine you can take to
any meal if you're in charge of the beverage and you have no
clue what the host is planning to serve. Loving Pinot Noir may
take a little understanding for the beginning wine enthusiast,
but the learning curve is worth the effort.
The grape gets its name, it's thought, from the shape of the
bunch because it resembles a pine cone (pin, in French). Blanc,
Gris (or Grigio), Meunier and Noir all are clones of Pinot.
Chardonnay once was known as Pinot Chardonnay. DNA typing has
identified other kindred types, among them Aligote, Gamay noir,
Melon and even Austria's St.-Laurent.
Pinot Noir is the grape of red French Burgundy, while in the
U.S., Oregon claims Pinot Noir as its own, as it shares latitude
with Burgundy. David Lett of Eyrie Vineyards first planted it
in Oregon's Willamette Valley in 1965, so the grape's history
in Oregon is completely a modern one. But, good Pinot also comes
from other parts of Oregon, as well as from California and New
York, about which more below.
As prices for good Burgundy reach monstrous triple digit figures,
other regions become sources for great values in Pinot Noir.
Now, Pinot Noir fans may find character-filled Pinot Noir from
a surprising number of regions. One intrepid soul even has it
planted in north Georgia (Sharp Mountain Vineyards). Habersham
Vineyard and Winery once had Pinot Noir, but owner Tom Slick
found that while the wine wasn't half bad, it wasn't good enough
to suit him for the effort it took to produce it. So he ripped
it out.
Biltmore Estate in North Carolina has planted it, and Messina
Hof in Texas still produces it. (Not bad either.) But it is
a finicky grape to grow, and requires a cool climate with generous
diurnal differences (day-night temperature differences) to slow
down ripening. Efforts to produce Pinot Noir in Paso Robles,
for instance, meet with undesirable results in my view as the
resulting wines tend to be heavy, alcoholic and monochromatic.
That alcoholic heat can be tempered by serving the wine cool
and with rich foods, but it's not desirable, in my view.
The grape yields a variety of nuances. In Burgundy, one looks
for good fruit but also a certain earthiness that recalls for
me the aroma of my grandfather's mushroom cellar, a fragrant
combination of composted organic matter and young 'shrooms.
Some folks call it "barnyard," and that's the likely
result of Brettanomyces, or "Brett" for short. Caused
by a spoilage yeast, it's considered a flaw, but a certain form
of it can add character to the wines. Out of control in the
winery, it's a disaster.
Of course, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier also are important in
Champagne, where they form the stuff of that region's famed
wines along with (Pinot) Chardonnay. And Pinot Noir is grown
in Alsace. .
In Australia, look for Pinot Noir from Yarra Valley north of
Melbourne (Sticks) Tasmania (where it has a major role in "Tassie's"
excellent sparklers, such as Jansz), and the Mornington Peninsula
south of Melbourne (Pairinga Estate and Morningstar Estate).
New Zealand is known for Pinot Noir from Marlborough, but I
prefer Martinborough and Central Otago as they're more savory
in character, with plenty of fruit but aren't fruit bombes.
Austria and Germany both grow fine Pinot Noir, called Blauburgunder
and Spatburgunder respectively. In Germany's Ahr, a northern
district, the grape doesn't get as much color as elsewhere,
but still develops fine flavors. Even Moldova has gotten into
the Pinot Noir act.
I've had nice Pinot Noir out of Canada, notably off Vancouver
Island, where Blue Grouse does a fine job with the grape. In
New York the Finger Lakes can turn up pretty good Pinot Noir.
(With 45 acres, Warm Lake Estate in Lockport, NY, has the largest
planting of Pinot Noir east of the Rockies.)
South Africa is emerging with Pinot Noir in Walker Bay (Hamilton
Russell) and Elgin (Paul Cluver). The wines are very food flexible;
I've even enjoyed the Paul Cluver with an Indian lamb dish (but
make sure it's not wicked hot).
In South America, Pinot Noir is being planted at high altitudes
in Argentina, and in Chile it's becoming important in the South.
California has a slew of regions that grow Pinot Noir, with
Russian River Valley and Carneros probably being the best known.
But Sonoma Coast does very good Pinot Noir, as do Monterey and
Santa Barbara.
Below you'll find some Pinots that are a bit "outside the
box," that is from zones that may be new to you for Pinot
Noir production. Explore these with all sorts of foods, even
dark chocolate for those that are most fruit-forward, and be
sure to serve them cool. Nothing drags a Pinot down worse than
serving it warm. So serve it cool to the touch, abou6 60 degrees,
in a large-bowl Burgundy glass, and you'll find that doing so
energizes the fruit while helping to suppress any excessive
alcohol.
A final note: All these wines continued to taste amazingly on
target days after being opened, indicating their potential longevity
and making them good choices for enjoying over several days.
Simply re-cork or re-close with the screwcap and refrigerate,
then take out of the refrigerator a few minutes before serving.
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