Jane's
Monthly Dozen: Wines & Romance
by Jane Garvey
Here
comes Valentine's Day again, and as we plan our celebrations--this
year it falls squarely on a weekend-- it will mean plans begin
on Friday, the (gulp!) 13th. As I have pounded into the heads
of all the young single males in my family, the way to a woman's
heart is through her tummy. One newly married nephew not only
cooks his bride’s dinner, but also makes wine to please her.
(Quite justifiable, as she, albeit a great cook, is busy with
medical school.)
Most of us can't do the winemaking part, so we rely on professionals
to enhance our romance-focused dining. I would advocate choosing
something that will address whatever dinner you’re planning.
Makes sense, right? But beyond that, choose something that's
gentle on the palate, not necessarily sweet, although that's
a possibility, as you'll see, but a wine that has a certain
softness or suppleness in its texture. Red wines want easy tannins,
so they may go with chocolate. (Don’t forget the chocolate!)
Sparkling wines are absolutely de rigueur for Valentine's
Day, and in my view they should be pink, the color of love.
But more than that, brut rose Champagne and sparkling wine—including
Cava and South African Cap Classique—is richer, more complex
and more interesting than blanc de blanc. It's the sparkling
wine preference of real wine enthusiasts. Nothing starts a meal
more romantically, especially if you're planning on asking the
"big question." They're easy on the alcohol, too,
but brut rose is not what you want with caviar.
The meal—and the wines—should be light to keep the evening from
turning dull with too much food and alcohol. Going for fish
would be a good idea, starting with oysters—whether you believe
that old chestnut about their aphrodisiac advantages or not.
Cold water oysters are best for enjoying raw, while Gulf oysters
are excellent cooked, a la Rockefeller, for instance. Then choose
a lean, rather than rich, sparkling or still wine with good
acidity to cut through that richness.
Red wines for the main attraction if it's meat-based should
be easy on tannins and substantial in fruit. Harsh tannins and
scarce fruit won't bode well for the romance's future, and will
render the red wine impossible with chocolate.
And of course the meal should conclude with something sweet,
either a wine with fruit or something to go with chocolate.
No matter who's doing the cooking, these ideas should keep the
evening on track. Candles recommended but not required...
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