Jane's
Monthly Dozen: Red Ramble 2008
by Jane Garvey
Attention
all readers stuck in the Cabernet rut: There are more red wines
out there to explore. Enliven your wine choices with a little
experimentation.
Except for Pinot Noir in its classicly pure "monocepagist"
form, most red wines gain complexity in combination with other
red grapes. But many customers think that blending grapes is
a sign of diminished quality. Recently, after I gave some seminars
for a suburban organization, a guest came up to me and said
that he’d always thought that blending several wines together
was a sure sign of quality deficiencies. I assured him that
would come as a heck of a surprise to the folks in Bordeaux,
where the world's most expensive reds are all blends, sometimes
only two grapes, but still blends. (And I wished he had asked
that question openly, as many consumers still think that’s true.)
It takes a blend, in fact, to make Meritage. What’s a Meritage?
This word was coined in 1988 by California vintners eager to
put a brand on red and white wines blended from Bordeaux varietals,
rather than having to call them “table wine.” It was pure marketing.
In order to use the term, a winery must join the Meritage association
and pay a fee. Some winemakers just use the term “red table
wine” or “claret,” a term the British picked up and applied
to blended reds of a Bordeaux style and type. So a wine labeled
“Meritage,” to rhyme with “heritage,” can only be a blend of
Bordeaux varieties, namely, for reds Cabernet Sauvignon and
its parent, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec,
and for white wines Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Sauvignon
Vert. At least two of the grapes in each case must compose the
wine. Other varieties, no matter how noble, may not be included.
So no Syrah or Zinfandel for reds and no Chardonnay for whites.
Some blends aren’t confined to red wines either. It’s quite
traditional in some areas to blend in some white wine grapes,
so you might find a Rhone Syrah, for instance, with its aromas
lifted by the judicious use of some Viognier.
Resolve for the New Year if you’ve been stuck on Cabernet Sauvignon,
as many consumers do, or Merlot or even Pinot Noir, to explore
the many other grape types that define the red wines of other
nations and regions. Savor how different a given grape type—Pinot
Noir for example—will express itself in a wine from a variety
of regions, such as Pinot Noir (native to Burgundy) as it changes
from California to Oregon to New Zealand or Australia or South
Africa. See how Malbec changes from Cahors (France) to Argentina
and Idaho, which now has 30 acres planted to the grape. Or explore
Cabernet Franc from New York State vs. Napa vs. north Georgia
vs. Chinon and Bourgeouil (Loire Valley, France). Taste Sangiovese
from Italy, then see how it differs from Sangiovese grown elsewhere,
from California to north Georgia. At the end of the day, you’ll
find your wine world expanded and your wine pleasure enhanced
immeasurably.
Serve these wines at cool room temperatures, round 60F/15C.
Red wines served too warm will taste (and feel) alcoholic and
not as smooth, so don’t be afraid to cool them down. When the
bottle is cool to the touch, your wine is ready to enjoy. Use
a large tulip-shaped glass for most red wines, although for
Pinot Noir, the bowl shape of choice is round.
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