- Wine
South is Looking for Volunteers
You may register to help out here.
- Dan
Berger on Why "Less is More" in California's Recent
Vintage Wines
''In the quest to avoid what is seen as wimpiness, winemakers
race past that sublime spot where it’s possible to make distinctiveness
and regionality a positive factor. Cabernet Sauvignon is thus
harvested so late that the resulting wine tastes as much like
over-ripe prune juice as it does Syrah.'' ~ Dan Berger More
- Not
One But Two Movies Depict "Paris Judgement" Story
Two movies are in production which depict the historic "Paris
Judgement" Tasting as a back-drop. Will one of these
be the next "Sideways?" More
- 10
Things Your Bartender Won't Tell You
A
humerous but inciteful write-up suggested to me by Jeff Emmons,
friend and instructor at Le Cordon Bleu. More
- Coping
with Climate Change in Vineyards
A recent seminar in Sonoma held at Gloria Ferrer Caves &
Vineyards left attendees certain that change is in fact happening--and
determined to do something about it. More
- Consumer
Friendly Labeling Might be Coming
For a long time many vintners in the Pacific Northwest have
wanted to provide information beyond simply the alcohol by
volume level--which you should know has a 1.5% leeway on US
labels. Now the Treasury Department is suggesting additional
"serving facts" which would list the number of calories,
carbohydrates, fat and protein for a standard serving size.
- Stag's
Leap Wine Cellars Sells for $185 Million to Italian Antinori
The family-owned winery that put Napa Valley on equal footing
with Bordeaux is no longer all in the family.Warren Winiarski,
the former Chicago academic whose 1973 Cabernet Sauvignon
stunned the world by beating France's best in the famous Judgment
of Paris tasting, stunned the Wine Country when he announced
Monday he had sold his Stag's Leap Wine Cellars to a joint
venture of Italy's Marchese Piero Antinori and Ste. Michelle
Wine Estates, Washington state's largest winery, for $185
million. More
Jane's
Monthly Dozen: Southern Hemisphere Wines
by Jane Garvey If
you look along the Southern Hemisphere, which lies south of
the Equator and thus captures most of South America, much of
Africa, and all of Australia and New Zealand, wine growing is
attracting Old World specialists and New World authorities as
well. Known as "Flying Winemakers," these opportunists
jet from one harvest to another, bringing their expertise and
style with them. Then there's Dominique Portet in Australia,
who met his Aussie wife only a few days after arriving Down
Under, and ended up making sparkling wine at Taltarni for more
than two decades. Now he has a brand of his own and still makes
sparkling wine, but under the Dominique Portet label. The cross
pollination also traverses the hemisphere: New Zealand native
Brett Jackson minds the tanks and barrels at Viña Valdivieso
(New World Wines) in Chile. Jackson has been working wine in
Chile for a pair of decades and is married to a chilena.
For years, Southern Hemisphere wines, except those from New
Zealand, were content to occupy the inexpensive and entry level
niches in the mind of the American consumer, thus building up
some resistance to the notion that they were worth higher prices.
Australia's Grange broke through this glass ceiling years ago,
while Robert Mondavi in cooperation with Eduardo Chadwick of
Chile brought the fairly costly Seña to the attention of the
American consumer, and broke through that barrier.
South Africa's red blend Abraham Perold from KWV, celebrating
the viticultural pioneer who developed Pinotage, was the first
South African wine to cost over $100, and that was a news item
a decade ago. The new vintage is the 1998, and retails for about
$150; the 1996 cost $125, and still is available (Atlanta Wholesale
Wine/NDC). Both may be had by special order. The 2004 Vergelegen
"V" also a red blend, costs $175 (NDC). They sure
are yummy, though.
Southern Hemisphere wines, according to some people even in
the business, also get crossed off as being "warm climate
wines." Warm climate? Sure, in some parts, such as in Australia's
Hunter Valley. But if you hang a left out of Tasmania in Australia
or Cape Agulas, South Africa, your next stop is Antartica. Rieslings,
Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc do very well in Australia and New
Zealand, and I've had fine Riesling and Gewurztraminer out of
South Africa. Just check out Robertson Winery's Gewurztraminer
from Robertson, South Africa, (Quality Wine & Spirits).
In Elgin Paul Cluver (Quality Wine & Spirits) also does
top-rated Riesling and Gewurztraminer. And in Chile, see what
happens with the Doña Isidora Riesling under the Cousiño-Macul
label (Atlanta Wholesale Wines); you might be very surprised.
Enjoying Southern Hemisphere wines may require some re-adjustment
as to grape types and as to how different grapes taste in these
zones. Sauvignon Blanc, for instance, has a wide spread of flavors
it shows from the green bell pepper, asparagus and canned peas;
however, South African versions pinpoint the passion fruit/grapefruit
character of Australian Sauvignon Blanc, and the tomato vine/grapefruit
character in New Zealand versions. You'll find Carmenere and
Sauvignon Gris from Chile, while Torrontes, Malbec and Bonarda
from Argentina may be new to your palate. If you come upon some
Uruguayan wines, Tannat is the dominant grape. And don't overlook
South African Pinotage; despite its somewhat unsavory reputation,
it's evolving quickly in the hands of some very skillful winemakers.
Below are a few suggestions to get you started on this lovely,
tasty journey of discovery that awaits you in the wine world
of the Southern Hemisphere.
Alan McCorkindale Blanc de Blancs 2002
Waipara Valley (South Island), New Zealand
|
Rating:
93 |
Medium-bodied
dry sparkling wine; medium gold. Aromatic, with well-integrated
clean toastiness and white fruit characters, very pleasing clean
fruit flavors, with pear and citrus dominant. Acquires a sight
honey (taste) note as it opens. Good acidity leads to a crisp
finish. Malolactic fermentation is done in oak. Mouthwatering.
Small persistent bead. Grape: Chardonnay. Traditional Champagne
methods: hand-harvesting; whole bunch pressing; barrel fermentation
and four years lees aging. This producer is well known for his
singular gift with sparkling wines. Serve chilled, about 50
degrees, in tall, thin tulip-shaped glasses.
Substantial
hors d'oeuvres: tiny crab cakes; skewered teriyaki chicken,
pork or beef; honey-glazed Chinese barbecued ribs; Asian style
dumplings; grilled scallops with mustard mayonnaise; tiny quiches;
chilled cooked quail eggs with flying fish caviar and a dab
of creme fraiche; any sort of dim sum; creamy mild cheeses,
prosciutto or jamón serrano
Unique
World Wines
$25
Punt
Road Pinot Gris 2006
Yarra Valley (Coldstream), Australia
|
Rating:
90 |
Medium-bodied
dry white wine; very pale straw. Aromas of pear, melon and fig
introduce flavors that capture fresh white fruits, especially
pear and honeydew melon, with good acidity providing grip throughout
to the crisp finish. Round and silky textured, thanks to lees
stirring and finishing fermentation, which began in stainless
steel to ensure bright fruit flavors, in neutral barrels. Low-yielding
vines grown on cool sites. Moderately chilled, about 55-60 degrees,
in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses.
Exotic
flavors: seafood with mildly seasoned rémoulade sauce; crab
legs or crab cakes with garlic aïoli; smoked salmon mousse;
fried chicken with honey mustard sauce; beer-poached white fish
fillets with mustard bechamel sauce; Asian seafood and chicken
dishes that aren't wicked spicy; chicken salad with light curry
or mango chutney; fried green tomatoes with feta cheese
Bibb
Distributing Co.
$19
Palandri
Riesling 2005
Western Australia
|
Rating:
92 |
Light-/medium-bodied
dry white wine; very pale straw. Aromas hint at the diesel character
often associated with classic Riesling (some like this while
others don’t, but it's not a flaw). The flavors stay tuned on
citrus peel (lime/lemon), which stays through the crisp, long,
dry finish. A snappy tart apple note--think Jonathan or Winesap--
emerges in the end. Brisk acidity (.8) against low ph (3.0)
enhances the sensation of acidity, especially absent much residual
sugar (just .25). This is a classic dry Riesling, with lovely
style and elegance. From cool climate Frankland River in Western
Australia, perfect for Riesling. Winery est. 1999, so one of
the region's young enterprises. Winemaker Sara Siddons has a
gifted hand with this grape. Great value. Cold fermentation
in stainless steel keeps the grapes' natural character. Best
served not too cold, about 60 degrees, in tall tulip-shaped
white wine glasses. New in market.
Aperitif
with light appetizers, cocktail potatoes stuffed with sour cream,
smoked salmon and chives; selected sushi nigiri or other California-style
rolls (skip the oily fish); Asian dishes with white, firm, sweet
fish; pork steak or cutlets sauteed and served with whole-grain
mustard cream sauce; fish poached in beer with mustard-influenced
bechamel sauce; chicken or seafood salad with mayonnaise; crab
cakes
New
World Wines
$14
Poacher's Ridge Marsanne 2004
Western Australia
|
Rating:
90 |
Light-/medium-bodied
dry white wine; very pale yellow. Aromas of grapefruit zest
and minerals, with clean, zesty, mineral-rich citrus flavors.
Finish is long and crisp, and just begs for another sip. To
sum it up: Delicious. Very young vines, planted in 2000, so
if the wines are this good now, think what time will accomplish!
Serve moderately chilled, about 55-60 degrees, in medium-bowled
tulip-shaped glasses. New in market.
Tarragon
chicken salad with toasted almonds; avocado stuffed with shrimp,
crab or chicken salad; crab cakes; creamy cheeses with fresh
herbs; Vietnamese seafood dishes that aren't too spicy but are
seasoned with lemongrass; grilled scallops with tartar sauce;
baked or poached mild white fish; cold Asian noodle dishes.
Skip heavy onion or garlic.
Big
Boat Wine Co.
$19
Waimea
Estates Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Nelson (South Island), New Zealand
|
Rating:
88 |
Medium-bodied
dry white wine; very pale greenish straw. Classic New Zealand
aromas of gooseberries and green bell pepper (not so much of
the tomato vine that also is associated with Kiwi Sauvignon
Blanc). Hints of caraway seed and white pepper. Silky, round
texture. Flavors focus on gooseberry and lime. Moderate acidity.
Trevor and Robyn Bolitho planted about five acres in the early
1990s, and now govern 250 acres in six vineyards. Nelson is
on the southern shore of Tasman Bay on the northwest corner
of the South Island.
Avocado
stuffed with shrimp or chicken salad; creamy shrimp salad with
lemongrass and mild spice; grilled scallops with tartar sauce;
Vietnamese seafood dishes (mild spice ok); pasta (either salad
or warm) with feta or goat cheese and fresh herbs; walnut-sized
cocktail potatoes stuffed with minced herbs and sour cream
Bibb
Distributing Co.
$15
Bodega
Melipal Rose of Malbec 2006
Mendoza, Argentina
|
Rating:
88 |
Medium-bodied
dry rosé wine; bright salmon-tinged light red. Aromas of red
fruits--raspberry, strawberry--with occasional suggestion of
watermelon and pomegranate, and, as it warms and opens in the
glass, the candy of a candied apple. On the palate, look for
red fruits--raspberries and red currants--balanced fruit/sweetness/acidity
and a clean, crisp, long finish. Source: 80-year-old vines.
Grape type: Malbec. Serve moderately chilled, about 60 degrees,
in tall tulip-shaped glasses.
Ham
croquetas; grilled ham steak; pimento cheese; chicken wings;
barbecued chicken; wraps with deli meats and ham; roast pork
tenderloin; roast turkey; deep-fried Cajun turkey; Frogmore
stew (a/k/a Low Country boil); red beans and rice; baked beans,
crawfish salad, meatloaf with tomato; empanadas with beef or
chicken, honey-glazed Chinese barbecued ribs, Chinese pepper
steak, sesame chicken, even egg foo yung!
Unique
World Wines
$15
Viña
Peteroa Carmenere 2006
Central Valley, Chile
|
Rating:
88 |
Medium-
full-bodied dry wine; translucent dark cherry red. Aromas of
dark cherry, with flavors that start with dark cherry but add
a touch of medium roast coffee in the finish. Chocolate notes
throughout. Well integrated components. Moderate acidity but
low ph for balance. Long, fruit-rich finish. No oak. Serve moderately
cool, about 60-65 degrees, in medium-bowled tulip-shaped glasses.
Very fine value.
Salamis
and other cured meats; smoked liverwurst (Patak); beef- or chicken-filled
empanadas; grilled ham steak, pulled pork barbecue with medium-bodied
tomato-based barbecue sauce; grilled steak with blue cheese
sauce; roast duck, baked pecan-crusted chicken; fajitas with
beef
New
World Wines
$10
Black
Pearl Vineyards "Oro" 2004
Paarl, South Africa
|
Rating:
94 |
Full-bodied
dry red wine; opaque dark ruby. Excellent dark fruit aromas--plum,
black currant--with allusions to brown spices; delicious sweet
dark fruits on the palate, with soft tannins and beautiful integration.
No single character dominates. Handsomely crafted. Rich but
not overwhelming. Silky texture. Grapes: Shiraz 59%; Cabernet
Sauvignon 41%. Relatively young vines, too (1998 and 1999 respectively).
This "Oro" is not the gold of Latin but the god Oro,
who, in native tradition, bestowed black pearl upon the ocean.
The winery is on the slopes of Paarl Mountain. Serve this wine
between 63-65 degrees, in large-bowled tulip-shaped glasses.
Truly fine value.
Fabulous
with food. One of the most flexible with food red wines I've
ever found. Smoked liverwurst (Patak); pastas with braised meat
sauces; stroganoff; roast duck; pecan-crusted baked chicken
or roasted pork loin; grilled or roasted red meats; roast chicken
or Cornish game hen; bleu cheese; steak with blue or brie cheese
drizzle; firm aged cheeses; dark chocolate (ohmy!).
Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC
$18
Tittarelli
Reserva de Familia Bonarda 2004
Mendoza (Rivadavia region), Argentina
|
Rating:
89 |
Full-bodied
dry red wine; deep ruby red. Aromas focus on dark fruits, especially
blackberries and black currants, with flavors that show a deep
core of cherry fruit. Acidity is a little high, requiring the
use of rich foods with it, but tannins are easy. Silky texture,
in facat. Finish is long and fruit filled, and oak is well integrated
with fruit. Age of the vineyard: 35 years. Unfiltered to preserve
its maximum fruit character. Likely related to Italian Dolcetto,
Bonarda (bow-NAR-dah) is a name applied to several different
grape types. A classic Argentine story: Enrique Tittarelli,
who arrived in the country as a teenaged Italian immigrant in
the early 20th century, founded the winery. Serve at cool temperatures,
about 60 degrees, in large-bowled tulip-shaped glasses.
Rich
liver pàtes; pecan-crusted bakedchicken or roasted pork tenderloin;
grilled vegetables; Southern-style barbecue with slightly spicy
tomato-vinegar sauce; rare grilled steak with chimichurri sauce;
beef empanadas; creamy pastas with herbs and garlic; baked or
grilled pork chops stuffed with ham and Fontina cheese; mature
firm cheeses
Quality Wines & Spirits
$21
Mendel
Malbec 2004
Mendoza (Lujan de Cuyo), Argentina
|
Rating:
91 |
Full-bodied
dry red wine; deep purple red. Aromas hint at not only dark
fruits--plums-- but also violets, with a slight suggestion of
toastiness from oak. Fruit dominates the palate, and acidity
and fruit are nicely balanced. Finish is long and fruit-driven;
round tannins and well-integrated oak complete the package.
High-altitude (3,000 ft. above sea level) old vines (80 years)
are planted on well-drained alluvial soils. New, first- and
second-fill French oak barrels.
Roast
duck; grilled or roasted Cornish game hen; grilled steak; roast
lamb; empanadas with beef; pàtés and terrines; meat pies; Southern-style
barbecue with vinegar-tomato sauce; pappardelle with braised
meat; braised oxtails (use Malbec to cook them); grilled or
roasted vegetables; red beans and rice; baked beans; steak with
chimicurri sauce; Brunswick stew; mature firm cheeses
Quality
Wine & Spirits
$17
Carlei's Shiraz "Sergio's Blend 2003
Central Victoria, Australia
|
Rating:
88 |
Full-bodied
dry red wine; deep crimson. Aromas of fresh sweet black fruits--plums,
black currants and blackberries--hint of blueberry. On the palate,
ripe dark fruits are balanced with good acidity and framed by
easy tannins. A burst of fruit hits the long finish. Round,
rich, pleasing texture. Intense but not jammy. Complex. Alcohol
shows a little heat; temper this by serving the wine at cool
temperatures with rich foods. Grapes: Shiraz 87%, Sangiovese
10%. Cabernet Sauvignon 3%. Serve moderately cooled, about 60-65
degrees in tall tulip-shaped, glasses with generous bowls.
Smoked
liverwurst (Patak's); pates and terrines; braised pork steak
with mashed potatoes and sautéed mushrooms; turkey thighs braised
with prunes and sun-dried tomatoes; roast duck with dark cherry
glaze; grilled lamb or beef steak; steak with blue cheese drizzle;
game; pasta dishes with braised meats; rich, firm aged cheeses;
braised short ribs; dark chocolate.
Big
Boat Wine Co.
$25
Vina
Santa Alicia Late Harvest Muscatel 2004
Limari Valley, Chile
|
Rating:
92 |
Medium-bodied
sweet white wine; medium gold. Intense aromas of citrus flowers
and dried apricots, with lush, intense fruit flavors. Silky
texture. Good acidity keeps sweetness in balance, refreshing
the palate after every sip. Lingering finish. Moderate alcohol,
just 12%. Residual sugar: 9.5%. The perfect summer dessert wine.
Serve moderately chilled, about 55-60 degrees, in medium-sized
tulip-shaped glasses. Great value in the genre.
Creamy,
soft mild cheeses or creamy mild bleu cheeses, served with plain
unsalted crackers and toasted pecans; peaches stuffed with mascarpone
cheese or crushed macaroons and baked; poached chilled peaches;
grilled fruit, pound cake; fruit tarts, lightly grilled angel
food cake with crème anglaise, panna cotta with crushed fresh
fruit
Bibb
Distributing Co.
$11/500ml |