Jane's
Monthly Dozen: Chillable Reds
by Jane Garvey
At
a luncheon in Athens last month at The National, Etienne Hugel
of Hugel & Fils in Alsace, France, felt the bottle of his
Pinot Noir ($40/Grapefields), and winced. “Too cold,” he pronounced,
adding that he had wanted it exactly at 67F, and he’d forgotten
to check it so it had overshot the mark.
Tasting the wine, I knew it would hit the right mark shortly
as it warmed up in the glass. I mean, in this heat, even in
an air-conditioned space, it wouldn’t take long to crawl back
up those few degrees of separation from his notion of the ideal.
Some people are still surprised to learn that it’s ok--indeed
it’s the right thing to do-- to cool down red wines, even though
winemakers world-wide recommend cooler temperatures for all
reds, not just the lighter ones such as Pinot Noir. It’s a no-brainer.
If you want to taste the fruit and not the alcohol, cool that
red wine down. At Biltmore Estate in North Carolina, winemaker
Sharon Fenchak advocates 58-62F for all reds (14-16C).
Yet, that old nonsense about “room temperature” for red wines
clings to life like a bad dream from which you can’t awaken.
What is room temperature anyway? In this heat, it’s hard to
get your house under 75F unless you’re prepared to pay the equivalent
of the mortgage in electric bills, and I’m sure you don’t want
your red wine at that temperature. Extremes of temperature on
either end of the spectrum impair flavor.
What you should aim for, in fact, with red wines, generally
is 60-65F 15-17C, although as we can see from Hugel‘s insistence
on a specific higher temperature and Biltmore Estate‘s lower
recommendations for a base, there‘s little consensus on the
subject.. But cool room temperature is a good benchmark. The
fruit is emphasized and the sense of alcohol is suppressed.
Carpe Diem in Decatur is one restaurant that understands that
the correct serving temperature for red wines has nothing to
do with ambient temperature, and staffers report they get argumental
questions from mis-informed customers. But they persist. And
they’re right. This lively neighborhood bistro in Decatur, GA,
understands that red wines need to be cool. Carpe Diem’s wine
guru Tarik Berhe confirms she has kept to the standard, and
although some customers insist on warm reds, most are beginning
to get it. “Of course we’ll open a fresh, warm bottle of wine
for someone if they insist,” she says, “but one customer will
absolutely send a glass of wine back if it’s not at a good cool
temperature.” This is a smart customer.
In France at VinExpo, held in June in odd numbered years, the
weather is hot. We all remember 2003, but 2001 nearly got me,
too. I thought I was going to turn into a grease spot. It was
therefore quite liberating to see those young French wine trade
professionals plunging their Burgundies at lunch right into
the ice buckets. I needed no further encouragement to follow
suit. As a result, having been a closet red wine chiller, I
emerged from my self-imposed secret wine chilling space to hold
the frosty bottle high like a flag.
Now, I’m on a tear about the subject. I believe it’s best to
lay red wines that are too warm to drink--and no red wine should
be consumed at 70F/20C--on ice rather than insert them into
ice, but you do what you have to do to get that temperature
down. Yeah, stick ‘em in a bucket of ice, especially the simpler,
picnic, casual red wines. Why on earth not? I don’t want either
reds or whites turned into Slurpies, however.
Here are a sample of reds that lend themselves well to being
served cool, that is around 65F/17C or less. While it’s ideal
for these blistering hot days, I wouldn’t hesitate to chill
them in winter either as that’s the temperature at which they
will taste best, no matter the weather report.
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