Jane's
Monthly Dozen: Italian Wines
by Jane Garvey
Italy
as a wine producing country swaps primary position with France,
as the two go back and forth for Number One status in the world
of wine. Currently, Italy may hold the spot by just a notch.
Wine is so threaded into the Italian culture it comes as natural
as breathing.
Early April begins the splendid Italian wine trade show known
as VinItaly, held every year in Verona, the picturesque town
that was home to Shakespeare's ill-fated lovers, Romeo and Juliet.
Many Atlanta wine importers and distributors will attend this
magnificent show, which covers something on the order of one
million square meters of floor space in 11 exhibition halls,
nearly all of it devoted to Italian wines. Then, if we're lucky,
they’ll come back with ever more fabulous wines from Enotria.
Just try any Italian red, even a Lambrusco, some time with fried
chicken, and you’ll see what I mean.
The
vast variety of grape types and styles makes it imperative that
we explore beyond the usual and the familiar. If you’ve been
stuck on Pinot Grigio, now is the time to visit other grape
types. Italians are especially fond of red wines, and I have
a hard time getting Italian friends to enjoy the whites as much
as I do, but they're especially disparaging of Pinot Grigio.
One friend complains that many vintners are ripping up good
vines to plant Pinot Grigio because we are so willing to drink
it and in some cases pay too munch money for it. Recently, I
was sampled on a Pinot Grigio from Sicily. Sicily is too hot
for this grape, and so it was heavily acid adjusted and so out
of wack I couldn’t believe anybody would produce it. But I do
enjoy those that come from the north, from the Friuli and from
Alto Adige.
On the other hand, many of us tend still to disparage Chianti
because we remember the basket bottles of medicinal-tasting
cheap stuff that we drank back in our student days. Liquid razors,
I used to call it. Those days are gone, however, and today we
should savor Chianti Classico especially with fervor and appreciation.
From its French- and German-influenced northern zones to its
Arabic-influenced islands off the toe of its boot, Italy produces
a range of wine types that seems unparalleled anywhere in the
world. It would alone satisfy a lifetime of wine cravings and
never come up boring. I protest loudly when a producer tells
me that a given wine is made "per il mercato americano,"
as this usually designates something made in an over-the-top
fruit-lush style or is completely over-oaked. Italy has a style
of wine all its own, and ought to stay firmly devoted to its
heritage, in my view. But I suppose all that just adds to the
incredible viticultural variety we find in this ever-fascinating
art-, food- and sun-filled land.
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