Jane's Weekly Wines from the Atlanta Wine School PRINT AND GO VERSION August 10th, 2006 Taste of Germany ************************************************************************************ Kloster Eberbach Steinberger Riesling Kabinett 2002 Rheingau Medium-bodied off-dry white wine; medium pale straw. Aromas of fresh fruit, a trace of mandarin orange peel, with juicy crisp pear flavors. A crisp, long, palate-refreshing finish Perfect balance, with integration of fruit and acidity. Elegant and supremely food-friendly. Just 9% alc. The Rheingau lies on the east bank of the Rhine between Weissbaden and Lorchhausen, which is the boundary of the Mittelrhein. Some vineyards also are near Hockheim, source of the word "hock," a generic term used mostly in England to to denote Rhine wines. Chilled for about 20 minutes, to about 55 degrees, and served in tall tulip-shaped glasses. Wide variety: creamy Thai shrimp salad with lemongrass; fried calamari with spicy aďoli; fried catfish or shrimp with caper-studded tartar sauce or ręmoulade; grilled bacon-wrapped giant scallops with honey-mustard mayonnaise; cold Chinese noodles with peanut sauce; bok choy salad with sesame oil, ginger and soy sauce dressing, creamy mild curried chicken with raisins; lemon/olive chicken Northeast Wholesale $18 90 ************************************************************************************* Hans Wirsching Silvaner 2004 Franconia (a/k/a Franken) Light- to medium-bodied dry white wine; medium straw. Some what shy pear fruit aromas; classic steely fruit (pear) flavors. Persistent, steeling, mineral-rich long finish, with a hint of lemon and minerals emerging in the finish and a touch of dried herb. Bracing, clean. Moderate alcohol (12%). Very good example of the genre. Not in the traditional Bocksbeutel (a flat-sided, short-necked, round bottle--perfect for saddlebags). Also in screwcap closure--breaking lots of rules. Chilled, about 55 degrees, in tall tulip-shaped glasses. Light, uncomplicated fare, perhaps best as an aperitif wine: Smoked salmon terrine; grilled scallops with tartar sauce; cod, catfish, tilapia or halibut fillet lightly floured and sautéed; goat cheese; fried shrimp or calamari with aďoli, cocktail sandwiches with white meats Prestige Wine Wholesale 90 $14 ************************************************************************************* Weingut Braun Grauburgunder 2004 Pfalz Medium-bodied dry white wine; medium pale yellow. Aromas of white peach, pear, with flavors to match. Classic flavors with good acidity, fruit and finish--balanced. The peach/apple character draws a bead on the finish right from the aromas. Adds another dimension to understanding this grape: a/k/a Pinot Grigio; Pinot Gris, and Ruländer, which tends to denote a sweeter style than Grauburgunder. The Pfalz extends south of the Rheinhessen pointing a finger along the Rhine River toward Alsace. Assertive and exotic flavors: mildly seasoned Indian-style dishes; lentil salad with orange segments; chicken salad with mango chutney and red pepper; ham salad; not spicy hot Thai-style shrimp with lemongrass; mild Thai curries with coconut milk, butterkĺse (butter cheese); roast pork pr baled chicken with Vidalia onion/peach salsa Continental Beverage $13 89 ************************************************************************************* Grantschen Lemberger Qualitätswein 2001 Württemberg Light-bodied dry red wine; medium cherry red. Lively aromas of dried dark fruits, with surprisingly(given its weight) robust red fruit flavors, both fresh and dried. Touch of currants, cranberry. Nice acidity. Easy tannins. Grape: Lemberger, a/k/a Blaufränkisch in Austria. Also widely grown in Washington State (e.g., Kiona). Modest alcohol: 12%. Good at room temperature, but perhaps better a little cooler, in a Burgundy-type glass. Nice value Fairly large, Württemberg runs along the Neckar River between Stuttgart and Heilbronn. Steep terraced vine-laden slops sweet up from the river. Lots of foods: Smoked liverwurst; pâté, grilled bratwurst; salamis and sausages; black olives; rabbit or chicken hunter style (chasseur); roast duck; grilled salmon or tuna, grilled veal chop stuffed with prosciutto or other ham; grilled lamb chop; duck; roast pork with mustard cream sauce; chicken with caramelized onions, roast chicken, grilled or roasted vegetables; mushrooms. Continental Beverage $13 90 ************************************************************************************* N. Ponsart Spătburgunder Qualitătswein Trocken 2004 Ahr Medium-bodied dry red wine; `medium dark cherry red. Warm earthy aromas, truffle, followed by dark cherry flavors with touches of aromatic brown spice. Chewy texture, with good acidity through the finish. Fruit/acid well integrated. Easy tannins. A bit of alcohol heat, although oak and fruit are in good balance. Grape: Spătburgunder (a/k/a Pinot Noir). Dry Spătburgunder from the Ahr is hard to find/ this is a good one. The Ahr is a small region named for a river that flows into the Rhine. Serve at cool room temperature to temper the alcohol a bit; use Burgundy glasses. Rich foods: Smoked liverwurst; pâté; roast duck; lamb; prime rib; Delmonico or rib steak; medium-weight veal or lamb stews; braised short ribs; roast pork stuffed with prunes; coq au vin; braised beef; roast pork; mild aged cheeses Northeast Wholesale $29 89 ************************************************************************************* Rudolph Müller Riesling Eiswein 2004 Rheinhessen Medium-bodied sweet white wine; medium gold. Aromas of fresh apricots, with flavors that merge apricot, ginger, flavors pick up apricot, nectar, and peach. Good acidity keeps the wine from becoming cloying, and ensures a good, long finish. Sweet but not overpowering. Moderate alcohol: 8%. Grapes for Eisewein are picked and pressed while solidly frozen; freezing concentrates the sugars. The Rheinhessen is a large wine region that lies between the Rheingau and the Pfalz along the western side of the Rhine River. Serve moderately chilled, in tall tulip-shaped glasses. Sautéed pears with creamy bleu cheese, such as German Cambozola, slightly melted on the side; or the bleu cheese by itself with a fresh pear, lemon custard bars, almond apple tarts, apple strrudel, crčme brűlée, pound cake, simple cookie--or nothing at all but the wine itself. National Distributing Co. $20 (375 ml) 89