Jane Garvey’s Monthly Dozen: Italian Whites

Posted on April 10, 2012 by michaelb

For many American wine consumers, Italian white wines are summed up in two words: Pinot Grigio. It’s the single most requested varietal-labeled wine in the United States, according to Steven Kolpan, writing for “Salon” July 13, 2010. Kolpan is Professor and Chair of Wine Studies at The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY. Not quite two years later, the same is likely still true.

My Italian friends lament this fact, claiming that it has caused winemaking friends back home to pull up other great vines and plant Pinot Grigio in some cases where it has no business being planted. One example I tasted from Sicily (too hot there!) was absolutely awful, and was very clumsily acid adjusted. Continue reading →

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Bubbles & Brunch

Posted on April 9, 2012 by debbieruskin

by Debbie Ruskin

Brunchin’ just feels good. A glass in hand, a comfortable seat, your plate filled with delicious food, and sharing it all with friends makes an extra-ordinary meal. And where else are you going to typically see a sparkling wine before noon?

As it sits there, chilled in a flute, gushing with elegant effervescence, the aromas and colors that delight your senses harken your first bite. Take a sip…the bubbles tickle your nose and wake up your taste buds! The clean, crisp feeling in your mouth entices you to take another sip. Next you taste the wine with the food and you have yet another set of flavors. Now, that’s food and wine pairing! Continue reading →

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Wine & Food: To Match (or Not)

Posted on April 5, 2012 by michaelb

by Michael Bryan
Written for I Carry the Bag Magazine, published March 2012.

As if understanding wine wasn’t intimidating enough, try breaking it down into a chronology of flavors streaming across your palate, THEN match those flavors to the texture, intensity, and complexity of tastes found in cuisine. To top it off, Americans have absolutely, unabashedly, the hardest job of all. Our “melting pot” culture has the possibility of seven meals from seven continents seven days a week! There are few people who can overlay 150,000 types of wines (the selection in larger markets) onto this matrix of cuisine options.

So where does that leave you during a client dinner including wine? Continue reading →

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Wine & Dine South: Chateau Elan–Road to Redemption?

Posted on March 24, 2012 by janegarvey

Karen Van der Vort and the Remaking of Château Elan’s Wines

By Jane F. Garvey

Karen Van der Vort, now the winemaker at 30-year-old Château Elan near Braselton and Hoschton, GA, has her hands full. And it’s not just with her gloves and her pruning shears.

She has a perception issue to deal with regarding the quality of the wines, and she knows it. “I’ve been hearing that every month since I’ve come here,” she told us recently, when we spoke about the winery’s need to turn around its quality image. While her tone expressed exasperation, it also conveyed comprehension. It’s going to be a long row to hoe, as she well realizes. But the process is under way. Continue reading →

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Perfect Condiment: Peperonata

Posted on March 19, 2012 by michaelb

I need to do yard work on this Sunny, warm Atlanta day. But I what I really want to do is cook. Solution! I’ll do something “low and slow” and can pop in periodically to check on things. Thanks to a mouth-watering article from Italian Notebook recently, I decided to make an easy, tasty condimento called Peperonata.

As presentation is key in this important “additive” to a meal, I use multi-colored bell peppers–fat, juicy ones. They are de-seeded, sliced in small 1 inch strips, and then I cover the bottom of my pan with olive oil, bring to a medium-temp, and throw in a hand-full of garlic cloves. As soon as the garlic begins to turn brown, then I toss in bell pepper slices. (Some recipes add diced onions here–this one does not.) Careful here as hot oil meets moisture from the cut peppers and you are sure to get some popping. Continue reading →

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Restaurant Redemption: Elizabeth on 37th

Posted on March 12, 2012 by sharonhenson

After enjoying the Charleston Food & Wine Festival a week ago, we are now in Savannah, and recently we ate at Elizabeth on 37th, usually recognized as the best restaurant in Savannah. However for us, it was a test–a second chance–because our first experience at Elizabeth was less than spectacular. We (being my husband and myself) had dined there a “number” of years ago, maybe 10, maybe 15, maybe even 20, but regardless, we did not have a pleasant evening. Don’t get me wrong, though. It really wasn’t the restaurant’s fault. Seated VERY near us was a group of about 20 people who were celebrating, and an infant in a baby carrier, who was definitely NOT celebrating. In fact, the baby was not happy, and made sure that everyone in the room knew it! So the ambience was totally destroyed, and we don’t even remember the rest of the evening. We were just unlucky that night, and it made us reluctant to go back. We just drew the ”short straw”. It’s been a long time, so we were ready to give them another chance. And talk about a 180 degree difference…well, all I can say is “WOW”! Continue reading →

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Europe 1, Napa 0

Posted on March 9, 2012 by michaelb

A brief commentary on tonight’s Reserve Wines tasting. To begin with, you must understand that a tasting like tonight, with wines spanning 2007 – 1997, and $100 to $250, is like a college football game–anybody can win on a given evening. To rate, review, or compare these wines is a statement whose veracity is tied to a moment in time. In other words, if we ran tonight’s tasting a year from now, it would be different–of that I have no doubt.

Having said that, let’s review our lineup for the evening, in order of their appearance: 2006 Kongsgaard Chardonnay, 1997 BV Georges de la Tour, 1999 Casanova di Neri Tenuta Nuova Brunello, 2001 Cardinale Meritage, 2001 Verité “Le Desir”, 1999 Cos d’Estournel, 2007 Vineyard 29 Cabernet Franc, and we ended with a nice lagniappe–brought to us by one of our guests tonight (Bill Blackstone)–a 2002 Spring Mountain Vineyards “Elivette.”

Continue reading →

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Jane Garvey’s Monthly Dozen: Southern Hemisphere Wines

Posted on March 7, 2012 by janegarvey

As our vines in the northern hemisphere sleep awaiting spring’s bud break and flowering, southern hemisphere viticulture is in full swing. From South Africa to South America, vineyards and wineries are busy with this year’s harvest, and are merrily sending us their current releasaes. Now is the time to look for fresh rosés from this part of the world, to enjoy with fajitas, fried chicken, barbecue and similar appropriate foods.

What do we expect to find in the southern hemisphere, stretching from South Africa through Australia and New Zealand to Chile, Argentina and Uruguay?

Most grapes of course come from the Old World, with one or two that originated in southern hemisphere lands or at least were concepted uniquely in the Southern hemisphere.
Continue reading →

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Charleston Food and Wine Festival

Posted on March 6, 2012 by sharonhenson

by Sharon Henson, AWS Travel Coordinator

Chef Sean Brock at McCrady's with Sharon

Just having attended the Charleston Food and Wine Festival, I can tell you that this is truly a premier event with some spectacular wines, food, and well-known people doing presentations. If you’ve been to this event in the past, you probably already know that this is a great food and wine event in a lovely southern city centered on gastronomy and the southern way of life.

Day 1: The Opening Night Party was held at the aquarium amidst the many tanks of sea life swimming about (including an albino alligator!). Food was prepared by all the best restaurants of Charleston accompanied by wines from everywhere imaginable. My personal favorite food was a swordfish with ginger lime coriander vinaigrette from Hank’s Seafood (and I don’t usually like swordfish). I had to try the octopus from Sean Brock’s McCrady’s, and also had to admit that it was delicious! (Previous “octopi” trials in my experience had not been quite so tasty!) As for the wines, easily, the ZD Cabernet was my favorite. I thought it was like a baby Abacus, their $500+ multi-vintage superstar Cab. My husband liked it and their Pinot Noir so much that he camped out near their station and just kept going back. A bonus was that the owner, Brett deLeuze, was pouring, and what a nice, nice guy he is. Continue reading →

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Italian Wine Meets a Southern Classic

Posted on March 6, 2012 by debbieruskin

Vernaccia di San Gimignano Paired with Shrimp & Grits

Italy produces wonderful wines, but most of us focus on the red varieties, leaving the white wines of Italy virtually undiscovered and unique. One of the most distinctive and notable is Vernaccia. The Vernaccia from San Gimignano, located in the province of Siena, has a wonderful long history. It is thought that in the 3rd century the Etruscans first brought the cuttings to this area. By the time of the Renaissance, Vernaccia was considered Italy’s finest wine. In 1966, it was awarded the very first Italian DOC in 1966.

Vernaccia is described as a red wine made with white grapes. It is powerful with a full bodied richness, a heady bouquet and a clean crisp finish. This varietal can be made in three different styles. Our featured wine is made in the Tradizionale style with a deep golden color, rich floral bouquet, good fruit and full body. The Fiore style is delicate and light and the Curator style is barrel fermented which adds hints of vanilla and added body. All of these styles are produced in the San Gimignano area. Continue reading →