The Atlanta Wine School Wine Barrels of Chardonnay


North Carolina Winery with 13th Century Heritage
An Interview with Co-Owner Susan Lyons of Raffaldini Vineyards & Winery, outside Winston-Salem, NC
by Michael Bryan

"...watching “budbreak” (happening now) is enlivening. It enriches the soul. New life, greening up of the vines, flowering and then the little beauties, the hard little grapes themselves appear and voila! A few more months of intensive care can yield delicious, wine. However, the key is vigilance, and knowing what you are doing. We think we’re doing it right, which means, always being open to learning more, not ever becoming smug because when you’re dealing with a product that comes from the earth, you are merely a custodian of nature. And subject to her whims.." -- Susan Lyons

The Crest of Raffaldini
The Raffaldini Family dates back to the year 1348 in the town of Mantua, in the Northern Province of Lombardy, Italy. Since this time, the Raffaldini Family has owned and continues to live on the farm where the great classical poet philosopher Virgil spent his youth.

Q: I understand you and your husband run the Raffaldini winery. What is your relationship with the Raffaldini family?
A: Along with my husband Stephen, we are part of the ownership of Raffaldini Vineyards. It is owned by members of the Raffaldini Family and the Lyons’.

Q: Most people say "What?!" when I mention North Carolina wine to them. What possessed you and your husband to invest your lives in a winery there?
A:
North Carolina was ripe for vineyards and wineries when we moved here from Sonoma, California in 1996. There were less than 10 wineries then, mostly muscadine and a few brave pioneers like Westbend. Today there are 60 wineries. That’s tremendous growth.We saw the opportunity – affordable land, good long growing season, and we also saw the uphill battle side of the opportunity, which is education, education, education. In 1996 North Carolinians also exclaimed, “You’re doing what?” when we mentioned vineyards and wineries. Some still do but to a lesser extent. Getting back to the education part of the equation: I (Susan) founded a publication to educate the public AND the people in the trade about what were going on in the industry because of the thirst for information about the industry, both within and without. On The Vine’s first edition was released at the Tanglewood Wine Festival in Clemmons in 2001. It was a small, full-color publication with short interviews about winery owners and the industry in general. Stephen, a viticultural consultant who installed many of the state’s finest vineyards was sought out repeatedly for information about the industry. “Can I grow grapes in NC on my land? How can I do this? What do I do with them after I grow them?” Everywhere we went people were turning to us for advice, I guess because we had been in the business in California. Hence the need for information sharing, and a publication that specifically addressed the industry from both sides, trade and public.
Morning Mist

Q: If it wasn't hard enough to produce quality wine in a little known region, you also made the decision to grow little known Italian grape varietals there. Please explain.
A:
Well, the name Raffaldini is obviously Italian and the family goes back to 1368, in Mantua Italy, where family members continue to farm the land and grow grapes. So there is a long history of grape growing and wine making in the family and a lot of knowledge about Italian grapes. The land that Stephen sourced for this project (and he looked at over 100 properties within a certain radius specified by the family) was not only beautiful, reminding one of being in Tuscany, but also had the terroir characteristics of central and southern Italy: cooling afternoon breezes blowing down the Swan Creek Valley between the Brushy and the Blue Ridge Mountains, hot days, less rainfall than the flatland grape growing regions of the state, and the soil at the vineyard is composed of schist, weathered mountain soil from the erosion of the Brushys over the millennia. The Brushys are one of the oldest mountain ranges in the world and have now weathered to an elevation that defines the range more as hilltops than mountains. That good rocky soil is what we grow Italian grapes on, just as they do in Italy. Climactically and geologically, we are on a par with south central and southern Italy.

Q: Is wine country living all that, or is it a romantic notion reserved for those who don't work in the soil from day-to-day?
A
: There is definitely a romance to the grape and to grape growing. You have to love it because it is very, very hard work. It’s farming. The Italians have this wonderful saying, “The ground…she is low.” Any farmer will nod his head in agreement. And there are so many stresses on grapes in the south, unlike California where you can pretty much count on long, hot dry summers and cool nights (although temperature patterns have changed there drastically in the last decade). We have humidity, disease pressure, and hurricanes. Let’s not forget hurricanes…, which occur around the time of harvest. So it’s very very challenging and there is never a dull moment in NC viticulture.

But watching “budbreak” as we are right now (the Chardonnay just broke bud!) is enlivening. It enriches the soul. New life, greening up of the vines, flowering and then the little beauties, the hard little grapes themselves appear and voila! A few more months of intensive care can yield delicious, wine. However, the key is vigilance, and knowing what you are doing. We think we’re doing it right, which means, always being open to learning more, not ever becoming smug because when you’re dealing with a product that comes from the earth, you are merely a custodian of nature. And subject to her whims.

Q: Will your wines retain their "taste of place?" In other words, is there a unique North Carolina "terroir?"
A:
Definitely there is a unique terroir in NC and many distinct terroirs within the state. Our terroir is very different from the rest of the Yadkin Valley Appellation’s terroir. That’s why we’ve filed a federal petition to be named a second appellation, an appellation within an appellation, called Swan Creek. We have an association that currently comprises four vineyards within 5 minutes of one another and even within that area, the terroir varies from vineyard to vineyard, though we have enough geological and climatological values in common that we can be defined as one appellation. The application process takes two year. We have another year to go.

Q: Georgia has a longer heritage with grape growing & winemaking, yet only has 1/3 the number of wineries as NC today. To what do you owe NC's success?
A
: I would attribute NC’s success to the legislative support we’ve received, the NC Grape Council and really, the dig-in-your-heels and get it done attitude that North Carolinians possess…even us transplants! It’s contagious and vital to this industry.

Q: If one makes a visit to Raffaldini and the surrounding area, what should we expect to find/encounter?
A
: You will find absolutely beautiful vistas. We grow 40 acres of grapes on 132 acres of property. The property is gorgeous: it encompasses the beauty of the Blue Ridge Mountains as a backdrop and in the foreground, the rolling Yadkin River Valley. On the property itself we have streams, and fish ponds and rhododendron and rose dells. It’s a beautiful, serene place and people stay all day when they visit. Our Tuscan-styled sunny farmhouse tasting room is staffed by very knowledgeable, friendly people. You will feel very welcome when you visit. We strive for that. Our location is family friendly. People picnic on the large tasting room deck or by the fish ponds and make a day of it. We celebrate the Italian way of life – wine, family, food and fun.

Q: Do you have any events or festivals which makes a good excuse for a visit?
A
: The weekend of May 6 and 7 we hold one of our biggest festivals of the year: The Annual Spring Wine Release Celebration. In conjunction with the other three Vineyards of Swan Creek, we offer concurrent entertainment and events at all four vineyards, all weekend. At Raffaldini our theme, always, is Italian. So we will celebrate “Springtime in Mantua!” Besides being the Raffaldini birthplace, Mantua is where Romeo fled to, remember, so we are celebrating the spring with live opera, roving Shakespearen performances by the Renaissance Theatre Co. (including scenes from Romeo and Juliet) on the grounds of the vineyard, live jazz by Vince Lewis and singer, Maddy Winer (and they will be covering lots of Italian songs). And we’re releasing our white spring wine, Fiori, which means flowers. Free wine sampling of Fiori and complimentary refreshments for all. At most of our events, we offer free tasting of our new release and refreshments. There is no fee for this event. Our entertainment takes place on Sunday, May 7. We alternate days with the other Vineyards of Swan Creek but on Saturday, we will have wine tasting and food of course. All our wines are available for tasting and purchase.

Other Events
June 11 – our annual Day of Wine and Roses. We have a rose expert lead a tour through our rose gardens (we have over 700 roses planted on the property)so you can learn how to care for these beauties while you sip a glass of vino. There is a $5 fee for that. Our website lists all our event info and is updated regularly.

The Current Wine List
Whites: Vermentino (one of only 3 wineries in the country producing this elegant white from Liguria and Sardinia), Pinot Grigio, Fiori.
Red varietals: Sangiovese, Dolcetto. Blends: Bella Misto, Rosso, Chiara.

Winemaker Stephen Rigby is working on a
frizzante that they hope to release later this year, comprised of Aleatico and Malvasia Bianca.

Frog Haven
Entrance to Raffaldini Vineyards & Winery

Click on either picture for larger version.