Mendocino Bubbles by Nathan Frye There is no doubt that the Malbec wines produced in Mendoza are now taking their rightful place among the important wines of the world, overtures from numerous wine writers and critics worldwide can attest to that fact. Even Mendoza’s delicious and fragrant white wines made of Torrontes are carving out a niche on the world stage - but what of the Mendocino bubbly? We went on the hunt to discover the modes and methodologies of some of the top local producers of traditional method sparkling wine, the same method used in the famed French region of Champagne. First, a little clarification, all wines from Champagne are sparkling wines but not all sparkling wines are Champagne. True Champagne can only be produced within the official delimited region of Champagne, France and only by the traditional method. Many producers around the world work to imitate the style and complicated production methods of France’s Champagne region in their own backyards, a few Mendocino producers have decided to join the party.

New vines planted amidst the Andes Mountains. Click image for larger view.

There are a number of local examples of wines that have bubbles. Many are often produced by either artificial gas injection, the creation of a second fermentation (the fermentation that creates the bubbles) in a tank or by adding a heavy dose of dish soap (this is my special recipe). Though these examples may prove to be pleasant quaffing wines they rarely have the complexity and delicate touch of those made in the traditional method, a method whose main defining characteristic is the second fermentation that occurs right inside the very bottle that ends up on your table! ‘Sparklers’ made by this proven process are slowly becoming more popular around town and are creeping their way into wine shops around the globe. Luckily for all of us, many of the best producers are just a short drive away…

When you make your way to Bodega Septima it quickly lets you know that you have arrived. This bodega, the ‘seventh’ in a line of nine international wineries owned by Codorniu is a modern sandstone-colored edifice flanked by massive stone encrusted production facilities and blessed with a fine view of the Andes. Winemaker Ruben Calvo oversees production of Septima’s wines and takes special pride in his exceptionally tasty and reasonably priced ‘Maria’ bottling, currently reserved only for the domestic market. The 2004 version of this sparkling wine is 80% Chardonnay (all sourced from the cool Valle de Uco) and 20% Pinot Noir; the wine’s 9 – 11 grams/liter of residual sugar places it firmly in the Brut category. We were fortunate enough to taste the base wines (the tart still wines that are blended together before undergoing a second fermentation in the bottle) for Calvo’s 2005 ‘Maria’, they showed great promise. Ruben hopes to add another sparkling wine to the ‘Maria’ line made entirely of Pinot Noir, it should make a tasty accompaniment to your favorite Patagonian salmon.

Bodega Luigi Bosca is a long-time player on the local wine scene, best known for their high-end ‘Finca Los Nobles’ line of wines they have branched off into many directions and to many quality levels. Winemaker Jose Hernandez Toso is the firm hand in command of Bosca’s ultra-premium and attractively bottled sparkling wine ‘Boheme.’ This full-bodied offering uses all three traditional Champagne grapes (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier) the latter grape providing the boldly rich and youthful fruitiness to the blend. In a unique move, Jose places a portion of the base wine in French oak for a spell before conducting the second fermentation. As with many wines made in the traditional method ‘Boheme’ spends 24 months on its lees following its second fermentation, adding nuance and complexity to the finished wine.

Alejandro Martinez Rosell’s team at Rosell-Boher is dedicated to making very special ultra-premium wines. This operation annually creates up to 30,000 bottles of sparkling wine solely produced by the traditional method; they are striving to blend the spirit of Champagne with the soil of Mendoza. This small operation sources its Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes from both Maipu and the cooler climes of Tupungato further south, all the while investing time and energy into isolating the best clones for these specific regions. Everything detail is labored over, free-run juice from whole clusters of grapes undergoes a generously slow 45 – 60 day fermentation followed by at least 30 months of lees contact following the second fermentation, this is the royal treatment. The Brut line of sparkling wine is produced every year, the Grand Cru line is produced only in the finest vintages and most people will sooner see the Sasquatch and Loch Ness Monster embroiled in a game of Bacci Ball than a bottle of the rare 100% Pinot Noir Rose (making up less than 9% of their overall production). Each line from Rosell Boher is bottled in imported French glass and can be obtained in only a few select locations.

Founded in 1897, the Pescarmona family’s Bodega Lagarde has long been a quality-minded traditional producer. Each wine that passes through their doors is estate produced and bottled and only 40% of total production makes it out of the country. Looking like a young version of nostalgic American pop singer Donny Osmond, winemaker Juan Roby Stordeur does an effective job of producing Lagarde’s top-quality ‘Extra Brut’ sparkling wine. All of the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes for this pleasantly dry product (only 4.5 grams/liter of residual sugar) are sourced from the Tupungato region. Like Luigi Bosca’s ‘Boheme,’ the ‘Extra Brut’ from Lagarde spends 24 months on its lees following its secondary fermentation; but unlike many bubbly wines in the world the ‘Extra Brut’ sees no malolactic fermentation, leaving it a laser-bright and exquisitely crisp sparkling wine. Incidentally, Lagarde also makes an Italian-style Moscato Giallo-based bubbly produced by the Charmat or ‘tank’ method. Never mind the technical details with this one, it’s seductively sweet peaches and white flower aromas will make you happy that this half-bottle-only product doesn’t leave Argentina!

So next time your waiter or wine merchant suggests a heavy Malbec or a light fruity white remember the few and proud quality sparking wine producers of Mendoza. These outfits have rolled up their sleeves and pushed to produce the wines with those beautiful burbujas for when you want to let the bubbles fly and the good times roll!

About Nathan Frye Nathan Frye has already served 11 years in the wine industry where he has held general management positions in retail wine shops, as well as speaker & education roles. He has been living in South America the last 12 months helping a wine tourism company, but is eager to find opportunities to bring him to Atlanta. He holds the Society of Wine Educator's Certified Wine Educator credential and is currently in the Diploma program of WSET--Wine Spirit Education Trust of London. You can contact Nathan here: theaguaboy@yahoo.com