Sometimes the reality of experiencing something you’ve longed to do doesn’t measure up to your expectations. But when the whistle blew and our glass and steel train arrived, I had a good feeling. For the next two days we would see 585 miles of spectacular scenery while sampling Canada’s stellar wines and cooked-to-order meals from the on-board chefs in our rolling kitchen.

The train serves a hearty breakfast (eggs Benedict, steak and eggs) and a multi-course lunch (soups, salads, lamb, salmon, pasta). In the Gold Leaf (first class) cars, meals are served on the lower level on china and linen by energetic Canadian waiters in uniform. In the Red Leaf (coach) cars, service is at your seat. (Dinner is on land, included in an overnight hotel stay so no scenery is lost to the darkness.) All wines are from Canada, including Blue Mountain, Sumac Ridge, Wild Goose and Quail’s Gate.

As good as the food and wine is, the real show is out the glass-domed rail cars. Animal sightings, including bear, caribou and eagles are common, and the bridges, tunnels and rivers compare to that of Switzerland.

After our two-day rail adventure, we spent two nights sampling the highlights of Vancouver, B.C.—a real walk-around, ethnic city. We discovered Zin the Restaurant in the trendy all-suite Pacific Palisades Hotel. At Zin, the chef prepares gourmet tapas from every cuisine you can imagine—crisp corndogs, sweet chili noodles, duck in lychee ginger sauce and tenderloin with yam fries.

The next morning included a trip to the Aquarium, a city tour and a visit to Bacchus, a wine-friendly restaurant in the restored Wedgwood Hotel, one of Vancouver’s most fashionable spots. The food has a decidedly French twist, but the list carried a good selection of BC labels.

Time to rest before flying (literally) up to Grouse Mountain and a chance to sample the cuisine. If you have but one night to impress someone, the Observatory Restaurant is the place. You leave downtown Vancouver by helicopter and arrive atop one of the highest peaks over Vancouver Harbor. Just a short walk later you’re in the intimate dining room with a breathtaking view of the city, sunset and harbor. Five courses, five Canadian wines and one sunset later, we were in the ski gondola for the spectacular ride back down the mountain. I can still taste the dessert course with the Mission Hill ice wine—a ten!

The next day we were back on the rails, this time for a trip up the coastline on the vintage Starlight train, which featured live jazz, fresh Canadian salmon and a bottle of ’99 Cedar Creek VQA Merlot from Okanagan. The first two courses are served as the train snakes along the Bay to a dance pavilion where a big band plays. Desserts and coffee are served on the trip back to Vancouver.

The next morning we boarded the ferry for a ride across the Straight of Georgia to Victoria’s Grand Pacific Hotel, overlooking the picture-postcard Inner Harbour. We had arranged dinner at the Sooke Harbour House, a small inn that Gourmet named “one of the world’s 25 best hotels.” Owner Sinclair Philip did not disappoint us; we spent a luxurious dinner with him, discussing the dozen or so island (Cowichan Valley) wine producers. We paired his local seafood and game dishes with labels such as Burrowing Owl, Venturi Schulze, Sumac Ridge and Gray Monk.

The following day, Mara Jernigan of Engeler Farm, a local expert on island foods, wineries and regional cooking, directed us to some wineries and food producers she recommends on her guided food tours for the Aerie Resort, a hilltop inn. We stayed for dinner and sampled Chef Christophe Letard’s French cuisine with a Pacific Northwest flair. Dining on the terrace, with its awesome island views, is highly recommended.

We sailed back to Vancouver via ferry and spent our last night at the arts-inspired hotel Listel on Robson Street. Here you can actually buy original, museum-quality art that is displayed in your room. After you’ve chosen your works (priced from $400 to 6,000 CD) from the “gallery” in your room, grab one of Vancouver’s best steaks at O’Doul’s Restaurant, pair it with a great Canadian Merlot from Stag’s Hollow and listen to some live jazz. With a little luck, and a good importer, one day you’ll be able to savor the same wine right here in the comfort (and heat) of the South.