Wine, Sand and Sun in the Islands

WINE ON THE ROAD
by Greg McCluney

“It’s better in the Bahamas.” Or so the ads will tell you. But is it really possible to have a wine-friendly holiday among the surf and sand of our geographically-closest tropical islands? Some said yes. Others no. “Stick with the cold beer and tropical umbrellas.” “Be sure to bring your own juice,” were some of the feedback from wine friends. Most wine folks in the South seem to feel the islands are still wine challenged, beautiful as they are. So it was left up to your wine and travel reporter to search for the truth in wine. Vino veritas.
"Over the last few years, the number of couples getting married here has doubled, " says Jim Curtis, director of sales & marketing for the Westin and Sheraton Grand Bahama.	Family friendly too. The Sheraton, Camp Lucaya is a full-service, interactive center, featuring 3,000 sq. feet of activity & classroom space for children 3-12.
Getting to the islands used to be an all-day affair, with connections in Florida. But things have improved with new direct service from Atlanta to Nassau (Delta); and Grand Bahama (AirTran). In just a little over two hours, you can be pulling a cork under the palms while you suit up for a snorkel in the “gin-clear” sea. After an inquiry to the Bahamas Tourism Board, we chose Grand Bahama Island over Nassau (famous for the flashy resorts of Paradise Island), Eleuthera and the laid-back Turks and Caicos. I had visited Freeport, Grand Bahama many years ago and was not favorably impressed. But I had heard things had changed for the better, with new food and wine options at major resorts and new, intimate, chef-owned, non-resort restaurant options, also. After a quick and pleasant two-hour ride on AirTran, we were checked through the funky Bahamian airport at Grand Bahamas. Freeport had always reminded me too much of Florida, but the airport is an island throwback. And we didn’t bring our own juice, playing the wild card that wine service on Grand Bahamas had progressed.

Senses Spa is a 25,000 sq. foot facility featuring state-of-the-art fitness center and full-service beauty salon.	Our Lucaya has become the first international location for the Jim McLean School of Golf.
Our Lucaya is something old, something new. But all has been renovated, redesigned and added to. You can choose from a Sheraton property or Westin, depending on your needs and budget. It’s part Disney, part Bahamian Village and part mega golf-casino-beach resort. It boasts of something for everyone – action pools, bars, beaches, quiet adult pools, boating, scuba, fishing, golf, tennis and gambling. Truly, one might never leave the property, but that wouldn’t be much in the way of a true Bahamas island experience. And some visitors will prefer that. There are no less than eleven different restaurants on the property. Each has its own menu, theme and beverage list in keeping with the cuisine. The options are mind-boggling; you just about need a written plan to sample everything. If you came to the islands for Chinese (just joking), go beachside to the Chinese Grille for sushi and satay or chow chow noodles. There’s Robert’s Rock Chenin Blanc from South Africa if you don’t want a Bahama Mama. And more. This is a beautiful room on the beach and the Asian cuisine is top rate. Portobellos is the Italian venue for Lucaya. Tri-color farfalle, tuna carpaccio and mussels can be paired with some Masi Bardolino, Soave Classico, Pasqua or Undurraga Cab from Chile. But Lucaya’s flagship for both food and wine is Churchill’s in the stately Manor House of the resort. Here it’s cocktail piano, white gloves and silver – just outside the swaying palms and moonlight on the waves. This is Caribbean romance at its best; but the good news is they deliver, both on food and wine. Start with the duck salad or chilled seafood platter paired with a Stag’s Leap ’03 Chardonnay or ’03 Sancerre from Pascal Joliet. If you’re moonstruck, go for a Moet & Chandon Brut Imperial – lots of sparkle to go with the setting! The entree selection rivals any chophouse in Atlanta. Choose from a prime rib eye, carved tableside, 22-oz. Porterhouse, rack of pork (our pick) or tropical lamb chops. We chose a ’00 Cotes du Rhone from Albert Bichot (France), but selections from Hardys, Sterling, Geyser Peak and Beringer were appealing. While not an extensive list, library wines were available upon request, including some rare French bottles.


Because of the low taxes on most alcohol, pricing for all beverages is reasonable, considering the resort setting. Wine and food service was not Island-style; it was smooth and professional. Churchill’s delivered one of the best island dining experiences I’ve enjoyed in 20 years of island hopping. Other dining options included Iries Caribbean venue, and several more informal eateries near the water. All offer some wine service, although it can be limited. At this point, it’s time for a cold beer anyway. Venturing out from the Lucaya compound, and this walk seemed very safe, there are many dining options. We chose a night at the Port Lucaya Marketplace, with no firm dinner plans. There was live entertainment, open-air bars (forget wine here) and some great local food at reasonable prices. It was a good contrast to the formality of Churchill’s, but a wine world apart. Perhaps our most interesting meal was a recommendation to visit an unusual waterfront Freeport restaurant called The Ferry House. Meet Volundur Snaer Volundarsson, Icelandic chef-owner of the House. Here’s a Bahamian restaurant with a real wine program. In fact, “Vorly” brings in his own wine from France by the container full. He shops in France for his wines, some in limited production. (We should have this restaurant in Atlanta!) Even the house wines (at $5 a glass) were unique French specialties. The Loire Valley, Burgundy, Bordeaux, southern France, all were well represented. And all were better value than the American wines offered. Vorly’s menu, featuring local seafood and creative adaptations of Caribe dishes, changes daily. Our rack of lamb in berry sauce, local fish, foie gras and Irish Mist cake were excellent. No foodie should visit Grand Bahama without a dinner here. Other dining options? Tourists flock to the Pier One where you can feed the sharks. And the International Bazaar houses many world-themed eateries. There are a couple of wine shops near both that are worth a visit to if you’re looking for a patio of deck wine to enjoy on your own. Prices are generally realistic, too. In review, there’s good wine in the island, and it appears to have been shipped and stored properly, in most cases. Check it out for yourself. A warm combination of sun, sand, palms, ocean sports and wine and food. Just remember to pick your spot (and menu) to enjoy island wine. Sometimes it’s more fun to enjoy a cold, local beer or rum punch and just watch the waves. Sidebar: If you go, check these sources for information. Each has an extensive web site as well. Grand Bahama Tourism Board: 1-800-448-3386 Our Lucaya: 877-687-5822 AirTran Airways: 800-AIR-TRAN Ferry House: 1-242-373-4718
Editor’s Note: Greg McCluney’s first travel report on Grand Bahama Island appeared in The Wine Report magazine in Spring of 2002.

About Greg McCluney Greg McCluney, the Atlanta Wine School's Wine & Travel Editor, writes about food and wine for various publications and is a member of the International Wine, Food & Travel Writer's Association. He's also an active member of the Society of American Travel Writers and contributes to the James Beard House Publications division in New York. He tastes and travels from his home in Roswell, GA near Atlanta.