The Atlanta Wine School Wine Barrels of Chardonnay
Blackberry Farm is nestled on a 4,200 acre parcel of land next door to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, roughly the same size as the appellation of Chateauneuf du Pape. Its captain of perfection is Sam Beall, an affable 30-something whose parents owned the Ruby Tuesday's chain, and landed in the original farm property in 1976. What began simply as a nine-room "place to live" has morphed into a sprawling Relais & Chateaux point of destination with 300 attentive staffers providing white-glove service to 69 rooms.

Each month, Blackberry assembles all-star Chefs and wine personalities for its Cooking School & Epicurean Events series. During these four-day/three-night affairs, a nice balance of pace is struck between events, optional activities, and down-time. And in such a beautiful place, it is easy to do nothing but walk and talk with a loved one.

One of our favorite activities (would you believe) was to swing 20 feet up overlooking the Smoky Mountains.
My wife and I attended the Grand Grenache affair in early December. I had met our "Epicurean Event Host", wine importer Eric Solomon of European Cellars a couple of years ago. Eric is no stranger to Blackberry Farm, nor is his wine. Like Kermit Lynch before him, Eric focuses on small, intensely serious winemakers who disavow filtration of their wines. And again like Lynch, Eric will ship or store no wine un-refrigerated. Robert Parker once said of Solomon, "The Name of Eric Solomon On A Bottle of Wine Is Synonymous With High Quality", and I have been in agreement with that statement--my purchases prove it.

Eric's portfolio spans over 100 hand-picked producers in southern France, Spain and Portugal. High-alcohol producing Grenache (known as Garnacha in Spain) is the grape that provides "the kick" to so many of his wines. At times Grenache makes a playful Rosado, a perfect accompaniment to wash down paella, while at other times it churns out liquified black raspberry compote with disturbingly enthralling aromas.
Eric Solomon
Wine Importer Eric Solomon of European Cellars

The First Evening
In the main house, surrounded by roaring fireplaces, candle-light, and hand-crafted Christmas decor, proprietor Sam Beall welcomed us to Grand Grenache. Sam introduced cycling-buddy and friend Eric Solomon, who discussed the wines, while the Chef de Cuisine of the Main House, Joseph Lenn, prepared the six-course meal.

Meal Highlights:
Poached North Carolina Trout in Buttermilk Consomme was paired with the 2007 Domaine de la Janasse Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc. Of the miniscule amount allocated by the producer for the entire United States, we consumed 10% of it in one evening.

Seared Beef Cap (the tender piece of the Rib Eye cut) with Root Vegetable Hash (all on property) & Garden Kale. This was paired with the 2005 Clos I Terrasses from Clos Erasmus of Priorato. I could simply tell you it is a 100-point wine and leave it at that. But I can't resist mentioning that I became lost in smelling this wine. I enjoyed the aromas a good ten minutes before I spilled one drop in my mouth. 85% Garnacha and 15% Syrah, this relatively young wine smelled of the freshly scrubbed country gentleman it is, but underneath is a darker, brooding and musky scent. Eric's wife Daphne Glorian is the winemaker of this wine, and she very matter-of-factly presented it. In speaking of the 100-point score and small production of 3,500 bottles, she simply shrugged, smiled and said "It will be long gone by the time we decide if it was worth it or not."
The Barn at Blackberry Farm
(L) One of the three-bedroom guesthouses, (R) The Barn, moved piece-by-piece from an Amish farm in Pennsylvania.
Lunch in The Barn. Placecards and roaring fires always the norm.

Day Two
After another one of the legendary breakfasts from Chef Josh Feathers (Sam had said that surveys from many guests showed the breakfasts defined the experience for them) we sauntered over to The Barn, now the fine dining establishment for Blackberry. The Beall family searched for years for the perfect barn, and found one in Pennsylvania. They moved piece by piece the circa 1802 Amish barn and reconstructed it onsite.

Adam Cooke, Chef de Cuisine of The Barn, demonstrated the preparation of Fennel and Sheepsmilk Yoghurt Crusted Lamb Shank. We all picked up some excellent pointers, and everything you eat at Blackberry can be put down in recipes, which they are happy to provide with the asking. We replicated four of the entrees we experienced that week during Christmas entertaining at home.

Afterwards, Sam lead us downstairs to one of six wine cellars on the property. All told, 180,000 bottles of the most delectable wines adorn their cellars. This cellar was the former site of the animal stalls, so the three-sides earth made for excellent natural climate control. I noticed there were no bin numbers to be found—Sam says the locations of the wines are kept in the minds of the three sommeliers.

The tasting room was pre-poured with seven wines from Eric's portfolio, and included his visiting winemakers: Winemaker/Oenologist Philippe Cambie, Christophe Sabon of Domaine de la Janasse, Sophie Armenier of Domaine de Marcoux.



Tasting Highlights:
My favorite of the hour was a special project from Michel Tardieu' Bodegas Mas Alta called La Creu Alta from Priorato, 2005. Perfumy black raspberry and hot rock. Fruit driven with notes of diesel. My second choice was Sophie's Domaine de Marcoux Chateanuef-du-Pape, 2003. Juicy, soft, generous ripe fruit wrapped in a delicate, nimble frame. Finally, I found favor with the 2006 Calendale (meaning "poem"), our only wine made from 80% Mourvedre.

We took in a fireside lunch with perky Rhone wines, and decided to walk some of the surrounding property. After sauntering by the gardeners house (they have a formidable heirloom seed collection), we visited the animal barn (ewes raised for their rich milk), and then the larder where meats are cured (their hand-made breakfast sausage was amazing) and the cheeses are made and aged (affinage).

That evening, we joined new friends from Michigan and Alabama for a nice three-couple dinner at The Barn. One of the junior (but very capable) sommeliers, Melinda, brought out a surprise wine (of her choosing), the Abbazia di Novacella Kerner from Alto Adige, Italy. I first had this wine last Summer, and one of our staff members, Kelly Wheeler, liked it so much, he ordered a case on the spot, as I recall. Each of the three couples chose a wine to share; our choice was a 2005 Pisoni "Lucia" Pinot Noir, a nice experience and still within our budget.


Day Three
An unbelievable breakfast, again, followed by a phenominal cooking demonstration by Cincinatti's, James Beard award-winning chef, Jean Robert de Cavel.

The Coupe de Grace
The Gala dinner, prepared jointly by Adam Cooke, Chef de Cuisine of The Barn, and guest Chef Jean Robert de Cavel, was a seven-course stunner. After a short week of amazing cuisine and wines, this dinner aimed to set the new benchmark for pleasure. And succeeded.

Course #2
Jonah Crab with apple, endive and avocado with Cider Sorbet and apple-ginger dressing. Paired with the 1999 Domaine de Marcoux Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc. Presented as golden in color, this '99 was showing its age, but the aromas and palate told another story.

Course #3
Black Cod truffle beurre rouge, fondue of blackberry farm blue cheese and fall vegetable medley. Paired with the 1995 Domaine de Marcoux Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Vieilles Vigne" Rouge. This garnet-colored gem was laced with minerals and fruits in the glass, throwing off some cranberry with a touch of menthol.

Course #4
Wood Grilled Laurel Creek Farm Squab and Braised Pumpkin Seeds. Paired with the 1998 Domaine de la Janasse Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Vieilles Vignes" Rouge. This wine showed depth and concentration, the classic fur coat aroma, but was dominated by fruit and dusty tannins.

Course #5
Venison Poivrade with Huckleberry Glaze and Winter Garnishes. Paired with the 2003 Maison Tardieu-Laurent Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Vieilles Vignes" Rouge. With 80% Grenache, 10% Mourvedre and 10% Syrah, this spicy number showed red and black fruits, some hot rock, and a touch of alcohol—this was the hottest vintage in the last 100 years, after all.

Course #7
Pumpkin Berliner with Praline Custard and Pumpkin Seed Oil. Paired with the 1996 Domaine de la Janasse Les Raisins Perdus. Made from 100% Clairette, an obscure Provencal variety, winemaker Christophe Sabon produced a single barrel of this wine.

 Chef Jean Robert de Cavel
Award-winning Guest Chef, Jean Robert de Cavel, demonstrated ten (10) gourmet dishes in front of us in two hours!

You always come across nice people at these food/wine extravaganzas. (L) David & Jill from Michigan, and (R) Sabrina & Tom from Alabama.

The Romans must have felt as I do, as they knowingly enjoyed and feasted (to extinction) on certain herbs and animals. During our stay, we savored anywhere from 10% to 100% of the American allocation of certain wines. Your sensual pleasure is compounded by knowing you are relishing all or most of a certain wine available.

As we departed from Blackberry, gourmet picnic lunches in hand, and made the drive back to Atlanta, we realized there is something for everyone at this destination. We hope to experience it again.

~ MB

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