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Transformation in Spain
by Arnie
Millan
I never was a big fan of Spanish wine until
five years ago. When I thought of Spanish wine, I thought
only of wines from two regions: Rioja or Ribera del Duero.
15 or 20 years ago, those wines tasted far too earthy, with
too much "saddle leather" for my taste. What I didn't
know was the wine-making and viticulture began to undergo
a dramatic, much-welcome quality revolution in the mid-1990's.
Improvement and experimentation are even now an embodiment
of Spain's wine industry.
At a recent tasting of Spanish wines, the importer
pointed out that the days of dirty, old barrels and dingy
cellars are gone (thank God!). Now, winemakers are proud of
their spanking clean and modern facilities featuring the latest
stainless steel fermenting vessels.
You can definitely taste the difference - the un-oaked Riojas
and Ribera del Duero's taste delightfully fresh. With some
of the finer wines, American oak has given way, in many cases,
to more expensive French oak. The change is noticeable with
the less intrusive French oak showing hints of sweeter spices
(clove, cinnamon, nutmeg) and fennel.
I am impressed by values in many Spanish wines.
For whites, check out a $12 bottle of Can Feixes blanco (Chardonnay,
Parellada, Macabeo) from Penedes; it has lively, crisp acidity
and nice fruit. Another crisp white is called Albarino (after
the grape) and is from Rias Baixas in Northwest Spain. It
can cost between $10-25. I also like a richer, fuller white
from the Verdejo grape; look for these wines from Rueda in
North central Spain. Try sampling great producers such as
Martinsancho (part of their estate includes a vineyard "museum"
with 375 year old Verdejo vines!), Marques de Irun, and Naia.
These Rueda's sell for $9-15.
Spanish red wines are gaining respect around
the world, offering world-class values. You can buy a 1994
Gran Reserva Rioja from Marques de Cacares for $30 bottle
or, for $7.99, get a fresh, young Tempranillo from Rioja.
Aside from the Rioja region, you can find great buys in regions
such as Toro, Sardon del Duero, Yecla, Jumilla and la Mancha.
Many of these wines are made from Spain's versatile Tempranillo
grape (also known as Tinto del Pais, Cencibel, Tinto de Toro,
etc) although Grenache and Mourvedre are far more widely planted.
In fact, Grenache, Carignan and Mourvedre are of Spanish origin
and are known as Garnacha, Cariñena and Monastrell respectively.
A great Garnacha is from the producer Borsao in Campo de Borja,
Southeast of Rioja. It costs $12.99. Excellent Monastrell
wines under $10 per bottle can be found in Yecla, Jumilla
and Alicante in the Central/Southeast coastal area known as
the Levante.
If you are seeking quality, unfettered by price
concerns check out the great reds of Priorato. "Entry
level" Priorat like Solanes from Sarah Perez or Les Terraces
from Alvaro Palacios cost between $20-30. Onyx costs $12 but
does not taste like a true Priorat, Fine Priorat starts at
$40 on up to $300 for Palacios l'Ermita. And if '05 looks
to be a very, very good year, treat yourself to the monster
wines of Vega Sicilia in Ribera del Duero (their 1991 Unico
sells for over $250!). Some of my favorite premium ($30-50)
wines are Numanthia from Toro, Mauro from Castilla y León,
Finca Allende from Rioja, and Flor de Pingus from Ribero del
Duero.
When you don't know the producers, a good rule
to follow, when buying imported wines is to check out the
importer. Some quality conscious importers of Spanish wines
are Jorge Ordoñez, Classical wines of Spain, Europvin (Chris
Cannan), Eric Solomon and Ole Imports. You can have confidence
in their selections.
This is a great time to buy Spanish wines.
At the low to moderate price point, these wines represent great
value. The wines are much better made now than even 10 years
ago. So whether it be a rose from Navarre, a crisp white from
Rias Baixas, fresh young red from Rioja or a deep, dark wine
from Priorat - grab some tapas, some Paella and shout "Ole!"
About Arnie Millan
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Arnie has been a wine
aficionado for nearly thirty years. During his first visit
to France in 1973, Arnie toured several French vineyards
and began to learn about wine from wine merchants and
collectors. Arnie has been consulting to restaurants about
wine since 1987. In 1997, he opened his own award-winning
restaurant, Avenue One, in Seattle. Arnie is a Sommelier
certified by the International Guild of Sommeliers. He
recently appeared in the video, "Wineworks: The Complete
Video Guide to Wine," available in selected wine
shops and book stores.
Arnie speaks fluent French and German.
Arnie frequently teaches wine classes and conducts wine
dinners and tasting parties, both public and private.
He also consults for restaurants and private collectors/clients
on the West Coast. Arnie is also conducting tastings
for a division of Robert Mondavi wines.
You may contact Arnie at: finedining7@hotmail.com
or by phone at 206-612-6547.
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